Best oil for a hybrid?

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Revrick

Revrick

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Just purchased a 2021 Lincoln Corsair Grand Touring, which is a hybrid. Any recommendations on oil? I generally go with Mobil 1 0-20 for most all of my recent cars. However, now I have a fully-electric Mustang and the Corsair.
 
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KanishGX550 said:
The new 2.5 shuts off even during coasting on the highway for as long as 10 seconds, oil pressure is zero at the time, you touch the gas and engine wakes up rapidly. You don't want to have very thick oil when the engine is doing that. Listen to Car Care Nut on this subject.
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I run 0w20 in that, OP doesn't need 5w30 in his Accord lol.
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5w30 is not a “very thick” oil. The difference between that and a 5w20/0w20 is only about 2 to 3 cst once it gets close to operating temperature. Nowhere near enough of a difference to cause any sort of problem whatsoever. Especially considering the fact that a 0w20 on a cold start is often about 50 to 60 cst thicker than it will be once up to operating temperature.
 
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kschachn said:
You can run a 40-grade all day long without detriment to anything except a small increase in fuel consumption.

I think you’re the one that needs to do some research on basic physics. You’re pivoting all over in this thread, from stating a person is “asking for trouble” using a 30-grade in that engine to calling a 40-grade oil “whopping”.
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Again, you're also on the internet. Why should we believe you and not Car Care Nut?
 
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kschachn said:
You can run a 40-grade all day long without detriment to anything except a small increase in fuel consumption.

I think you’re the one that needs to do some research on basic physics. You’re pivoting all over in this thread, from stating a person is “asking for trouble” using a 30-grade in that engine to calling a 40-grade oil “whopping”.
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I'm curious, how many modern Toyota 2.5s you have torn apart?
 
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KanishGX550 said:
Again, you're also on the internet. Why should we believe you and not Car Care Nut?
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Well, if one guy who works in a morgue and has a Youtube channel tells me I've got a fever because there are ghosts in my blood and another guy, who isn't professing to be a medical professional, but has a medical background, tells me it's a virus, do I believe the other guy just by default because he's got a social media presence? Or do I perhaps consider the guy who tells me I have ghosts in my blood might not know what the hell he's talking about?

Mechanics aren't required to have engineering backgrounds and that becomes readily apparent when they start opining on subjects like lubrication. Now, that doesn't mean that some of them won't put in the work and actually learn about the subject (there are several on this board), but the vast majority won't. That's how you get myths like 0W-40 is a "0 weight and incredibly thin", that ATF is a potent engine cleaner...etc.
 
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The Critic said:
Likely added corrosion inhibitors, mainly for the plug-in hybrids.
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This!

More detergents/dispersents. At least that's what AMSoil says about their hybrids oils.

However, i have customers here with hybrids with over 800k km that ran with regular 0w20 Synthetic oils and are just fine.. Personally however, i'll never go over 8k km without changing oils in my Prius. It's the absolute king at fuel/water dilution.
 
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OVERKILL said:
Well, if one guy who works in a morgue and has a Youtube channel tells me I've got a fever because there are ghosts in my blood and another guy, who isn't professing to be a medical professional, but has a medical background, tells me it's a virus, do I believe the other guy just by default because he's got a social media presence? Or do I perhaps consider the guy who tells me I have ghosts in my blood might not know what the hell he's talking about?

Mechanics aren't required to have engineering backgrounds and that becomes readily apparent when they start opining on subjects like lubrication. Now, that doesn't mean that some of them won't put in the work and actually learn about the subject (there are several on this board), but the vast majority won't. That's how you get myths like 0W-40 is a "0 weight and incredibly thin", that ATF is a potent engine cleaner...etc.
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What are your creds? What are they? The guy is a Toyota master technician with over a decade of experience. He has probably torn apart more engines than your comments on this forum with all you respect.
 
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KanishGX550 said:
What are your creds? What are they? The guy is a Toyota master technician with over a decade of experience. He has probably torn apart more engines than your comments on this forum with all you respect.
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And one that gets key "facts" incorrect in his video.

You're really trying hard on this tack but you're only looking more silly the more you go on.
 
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Plumb Bob said:
Don't believe anyone. Why not do as suggested? Also, it's not "we".
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Yep, follow the engineers' and experienced technicians' suggestion. If you feel you are SEVERELY(For example, my GX550 will tow 6000 lbs for thousands and thousands of miles) stessing your motor then you might wanna go up a notch in viscosity. But that's not the case in OP's case. That Accord no way can break the oil out of grade.
 
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KanishGX550 said:
Oh so name calling now. I want to know your creds, please!
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Did I call you a name? No, I said you're looking silly for going on about this "cred" thing.

Are you unable to fact check the video statements about design and "cred" them yourself?

As far as my "creds", I have stated them here in the past. But it's actually irrelevant to this discussion since anyone could fact check the YouTube personality and his understanding of the engine design.
 
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If OP short trips the living hell out of that Accord in cold weather and he is carrying 5% fuel around, then he might use a little more viscous oil. But even then it would be better to stay in grade and change the oil much more frequently. A 0w20 with no fuel will protect better than a 5w30 with 5% fuel.
This winter I let the filter stay there and sucked the oil out twice on my 4Runner. Will do it again end of the month. I did a lot of short trips in freezing cold.
 
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KanishGX550 said:
If OP short trips the living hell out of that Accord in cold weather and he is carrying 5% fuel around, then he might use a little more viscous oil. But even then it would be better to stay in grade and change the oil much more frequently. A 0w20 with no fuel will protect better than a 5w30 with 5% fuel.
This winter I let the filter stay there and sucked the oil out twice on my 4Runner. Will do it again end of the month. I did a lot of short trips in freezing cold.
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Othe than a truly tiny difference in fuel consumption, why would it be better?
 
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KanishGX550 said:
Common sense, a very rare cred these days. Let me explain this super complicated rocket science lol. Fresh oil is always better than oil contaminated with fuel and water
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But you said he would be better to stay in grade. What will that get him?

Other than the small fuel consumption difference, he'd always be better off with a higher grade if there is fuel dilution or other contamination.
 
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kschachn said:
But you said he would be better to stay in grade. What will that get him?

Other than the small fuel consumption difference, he'd always be better off with a higher grade if there is fuel dilution or other contamination.
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Ask the engineers why they recommend a certain grade for a certain motor. Why not 20w60 in that Accord? Why even synthetic? Why not transmission fluid in that motor? Heck, why not some shampoo? These are the questions that the engineers have the cred to answer.
 
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KanishGX550 said:
Ask the engineers why they recommend a certain grade for a certain motor. Why not 20w60 in that Accord? Why even synthetic? Why not transmission fluid in that motor? Heck, why not some shampoo? These are the questions that the engineers have the cred to answer.
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A 60-grade would be fine, as long as the 20W winter rating is appropriate for the expected starting temperature. Would you need a 60-grade? No, but it wouldn't damage the engine either. And why wouldn't you want a synthetic oil? Synthetic oils have superior resistance to oxidation and sludge formation, for one thing.

And as for why there are certain recommendations in the owner's manual, that is influenced by outside requirements other than what the engineers may recommend. But you are at least correct in noting they are a recommendation.

As for the rest, now you are just being ridiculous. You're not helping your cred here.
 
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