Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
When fs oil came to the market way back in the day I used to make my own ss oil. One quart of fs to 4 qts conventional...
Hey I was a young buck then...
Best MOLY additives?
- Thread starter CharlesInCharge
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Hey I was a young buck then...
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isnt moly used as an alternative to zddp for emission protection?
MolaKule
Staff member
No, MoDTC is used "along with" ZDDP and other chemistrys' as Friction Modifiers. ZDDP is reduced, not eliminated.
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what benefits would this provide?
As i understand it. Mola please correct me if i'm wrong.
Moly is a friction modifier, so it reduces friction, but it does not provide antiwear like Zddp does when hydrodynamic or hydro-static lubrication fails or comes close to failing.
Probably the type of oil base as a lot to do with how much add-pack it will hold.
another zddp benefit is the antioxidant.
you dont want oil degrade super fast.
you dont want oil degrade super fast.
I'm trying to find a 0w20 grade oil with organic tungsten/wolfram from Valderbilt Vanlube W-324: "amines, bis (C11-14-branched and linear alkyl), tungstates" CAS-No.: 1159919-46-6. NOT wanting something with WS2. I know other oils of theirs have this, but it's not clear which 0w20 one has it (VSE, EHS, DFE, EFS, and EcoSynth ECS is all they sell for 0w20) despite some saying "Tungsten" within their description https://www.ravenolamerica.com/categories/motor-oil/oil-by-weight/0w20-oil.html Do you have any product data sheets for the 5 versions of 0w20 they sell? I only found 1 and it doesn't say tungsten, but instead molybdenum which goes against what you said they use tungsten instead: https://cdn.autodoc.de/uploads/hazard/passports/8211284-en-1.pdf
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
They have used Moly in some versions (instead of Tungsten) in some of their formulations. I'm not on their formulation team, so I have no idea why, but I assume there's a sound reason for that.
If you are curious about the form of tungsten, your best bet is to reach out to them directly and see if they give you a reasonable answer.
The best moly additives are the ones formulated into an oil with the results being verified. We have many moly additives at our disposal and one thing that is guaranteed is there is no magic paintbrush. Certain additives work in certain formulas and not in others. Validation is the best answer. Same is true with tungsten. Sometimes it does wonders sometimes not. I have even seen circumstances where adding moly actually produced negative results rather than positive. It has been said a hundred times but back yard chemistry with “it feels better to me” is no substitute for something properly balanced and validated when creating the product.
David
David
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OP had ONE reply to this thread, back at Post #22.. a special Thank You to OVERKILL, 930.engineering and others who came in with some great technical info, this is a lot to take in, but is also amazing and fascinating, in it's own way.
Me, personally, I may be sold on the HPL or High Performance Lubricants products, they have a very good blend, I've seen their operating as to how they actually make, test, and verify the oil firsthand, and there are not robots working there, just real, also busy people that graciously made time for me, now I have nothing but positive things to say about them AND their products. And I hate paying shipping so I'll just drive out there some random day (I'll tell or ask them first lol) to buy more, including PCMO. Since my oil leak doesn't appear to be going away any time soon. But that's just me.
I also notice more engine smoothness, but this is getting into the realm of the unscientific.
And I actually chose HPL products to UN-do an overdose of Ceratec, Mos2, and another additive that I never should have considered, and is probably why I will never walk into a NAPA again in my life, since I did the whole well, okay, let's use that and put Restore! - which is blue slime that looks like paint - and has gold flakes in it, which, if you didnt tell your mechanic that you put that in, would say that that looks like glitter oil.. I will be happy when that flushes out, hence my inquiry and follow-up friendship and endorsement (strictly professional) of HPL oils and my road testing of their EC, which I have amassed well over 5000 miles in less than one month and the filter cut-opens (the white one is the one put on after 1000 miles on the EC and still on) from 53' Stude are coming, grand total 4 engine filters and one Engine Oil style trans filter because, why not.... The additives worked "okay" but results always tapered off, and who knows, may have sealed in sludge, blocked up an oil passage, had adverse effects for wherever your oil goes, all this pure speculation.
And, to answer the original question, good luck on stating your opinion wi..never mind. I used to always use this. That may be a thing of the past.
The below product, also Ceratec, changes the color of your engine oil to a state that makes a mechanic think there is something wrong with your engine and kind of looks like grease. No good. Always off-putting.
Me, personally, I may be sold on the HPL or High Performance Lubricants products, they have a very good blend, I've seen their operating as to how they actually make, test, and verify the oil firsthand, and there are not robots working there, just real, also busy people that graciously made time for me, now I have nothing but positive things to say about them AND their products. And I hate paying shipping so I'll just drive out there some random day (I'll tell or ask them first lol) to buy more, including PCMO. Since my oil leak doesn't appear to be going away any time soon. But that's just me.
I also notice more engine smoothness, but this is getting into the realm of the unscientific.
And I actually chose HPL products to UN-do an overdose of Ceratec, Mos2, and another additive that I never should have considered, and is probably why I will never walk into a NAPA again in my life, since I did the whole well, okay, let's use that and put Restore! - which is blue slime that looks like paint - and has gold flakes in it, which, if you didnt tell your mechanic that you put that in, would say that that looks like glitter oil.. I will be happy when that flushes out, hence my inquiry and follow-up friendship and endorsement (strictly professional) of HPL oils and my road testing of their EC, which I have amassed well over 5000 miles in less than one month and the filter cut-opens (the white one is the one put on after 1000 miles on the EC and still on) from 53' Stude are coming, grand total 4 engine filters and one Engine Oil style trans filter because, why not.... The additives worked "okay" but results always tapered off, and who knows, may have sealed in sludge, blocked up an oil passage, had adverse effects for wherever your oil goes, all this pure speculation.
And, to answer the original question, good luck on stating your opinion wi..never mind. I used to always use this. That may be a thing of the past.
The below product, also Ceratec, changes the color of your engine oil to a state that makes a mechanic think there is something wrong with your engine and kind of looks like grease. No good. Always off-putting.
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