best filter too use for rislone flush?

[ziggy]

hi allplanning on doing 2 quartsof rislone, and 2 quarts of oil too help clean up/out a 1998 toyota corolla. PLanning too use supertech 10w30 synthetic, and 2 quarts rislone engine treatment..was considering kendall synthetic..but am gunna drive it 100 miles, maybe 150 then drain.
would thier be an good or idaalistic filter too use? like fram ultra? bosch distance plus? along those lines....purolator gold?
or would just a basic stp,napa silver, or gold, puorlator ,fram orange can be best? have about 2,600miles on aorange can now..3 month in use...maybe just empty that and re use it for the 100miles>?

 

[Trav]

I think any basic filter will work fine, don't spend a lot of money on a filter for this job.

 

[pbm]

Originally Posted By: Trav
I think any basic filter will work fine, don't spend a lot of money on a filter for this job.


Ditto...using a Fram Ultra for such a short run is a waste. I'd use a Driveworks or similar.

 

[andyd]

For the short run you plan,why just use the filter that is in there? Also , I would use the stuff as recommended, not double strength.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted By: ziggy
hi allplanning on doing 2 quartsof rislone, and 2 quarts of oil too help clean up/out a 1998 toyota corolla. PLanning too use supertech 10w30 synthetic, and 2 quarts rislone engine treatment..was considering kendall synthetic..but am gunna drive it 100 miles, maybe 150 then drain.
would thier be an good or idaalistic filter too use? like fram ultra? bosch distance plus? along those lines....purolator gold?
or would just a basic stp,napa silver, or gold, puorlator ,fram orange can be best? have about 2,600miles on aorange can now..3 month in use...maybe just empty that and re use it for the 100miles>?


I would not do this. A buddy tried this. Sludge got dislodged, blocked an oil passage and the engine locked up. Rislone has little lubricating qualities and to run 50 percent of that stuff is foolish to me. I cannot understand the obsession to have a spotless engine. If it runs fine and quietly, I would leave it alone and do a few short oil changes instead.

 

[dnewton3]

I suspect you'd benefit "best" (I hate that word in cases like this) from a very efficicent filter that is low cost. You want high performance that you'll throw away quickly.

Fram TG at Walmart.

Same 99% as the FU for 1/3 less money. Money that you'll waste anyway, so you might as well reduce the waste as "best" you can (there's that word again ....)

 

[ziggy]

wow! your friends engine lockedup doing a same/similar flush????
i suspect my rings are coked stuck. burned over 2 quarts of havoline sm dino ipurchased 10 years ago..oil was stress black, what was n dipstick. was thinking, crud is in the current framorange can,and dont wanna dislodge and re circulate it using 2 quarts of rislone,or if it was rislone or anything..
i do have a driveworks i bought lastyear..maybei'lluse that.
well, rislone does say touse 2 quarts.its only for 100 miles. i do know, under the oil fillcap,thiers baked on black stuff..thats slowly been coming off.when i got it,it was all black. past year and using dino sometimes, and synthetic othertimes,cleaned it off...dino not somuch except for supertech dino..last year..it visually significantly cleaned..

 

[badtlc]

i wouldn't overdo the rislone engine treatment. one half quart of concentrate and fresh oil for 5k will be more than adequate.

Use any filter you want.

 

[05LGTLtd]

Run ONE dose of rislone, as stated above. The label says takes it takes 500 miles of use to work, but fine for an entire oci. 150 miles is likely to be too short for adequate cleaning.

Run what ever filter you want. You may want to change the filter after 500 miles. Personally, I'd run OCOD for a job like this. ~$4 and if there is an oversized option, go for it. Supertech is fine. I'd run it 3-4K with one early filter swap.

Have you pulled the valve cover or pan?

 

[eagle23]

If you are concerned about dislodging sludge from the filter, that isn't likely to happen.

What IS likely to happen is dislodging sludge from elsewhere in the engine by doing a laxative dose of Rislone (or equivalent). That really is asking for trouble, so be careful what you ask for....

Do the one quart at a time run. The sludge didn't accumulate fast and removing it fast is just dangerous, unless you're just experimenting and have a spare engine or spare car.

Patience...Patience...Patience

 

[Doog]

Originally Posted By: eagle23
If you are concerned about dislodging sludge from the filter, that isn't likely to happen.

What IS likely to happen is dislodging sludge from elsewhere in the engine by doing a laxative dose of Rislone (or equivalent). That really is asking for trouble, so be careful what you ask for....

Do the one quart at a time run. The sludge didn't accumulate fast and removing it fast is just dangerous, unless you're just experimenting and have a spare engine or spare car.

Patience...Patience...Patience


This ^^ I would just run PP in there for 5000 intervals with an Orange can.

 

[dlundblad]

I agree. Too much cleaners could cause some harm.

I would consider short PYB OCIs with the largest filter that fits.

 

[4wheeldog]

If you actually think that your problem is ring sticking, there are products intended to be used as a piston soak, applied directly through the spark plug hole. Just a thought.....

 

[Rickey]

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
If you actually think that your problem is ring sticking, there are products intended to be used as a piston soak, applied directly through the spark plug hole. Just a thought.....



For stuck/carboned piston rings I agree with 4wheeldog.

Remove the spark plugs and do a piston soak if you dare.

Please note that soaking pistons, adding solvents or extra detergents to the oil etc. has some risks involved.
Such as breaking large chunks of the deposits loose causing damage to the engine.

OK so the disclaimer is out of the way.

In my experience with various engines that narrowly escaped from the junk yard going back to the middle 70's:

I haven't damaged one yet with manufacturer recommended doses of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) or, Rislone in the crankcase, or carefully soaking pistons in Berrymans B12 Chemtool or acetone.

Some engines will respond favorably and some will remain the same depending on the exact nature of the problem.

For the piston soak procedure with the engine cool I remove the spark plugs after blowing away any debris that might fall into the spark plug holes with compressed air.

With a suitable funnel pour into each spark plug hole about 3 oz of Chemtool (or acetone) followed by about 1 oz of MMO. The MMO is mainly to provide some lubrication on start up after the procedure is finished.
Bonus points if you can use a breaker bar and suitable socket to slowly hand turn the engine a few rounds while the chemicals are in there.
Allow the chemicals to remain for over night or as much as 24 hours.

Then with shop towels placed to catch what might be ejected from the open spark plug holes; turn the engine over with the starter to displace any remaining chemicals from the combustion chambers.
Be sure the boot ends of the spark plug wires are positioned so that any sparks that might occur can't set a fire from the ejected chemicals, or disable the ignition by disconnecting the ignition coils primary circuit!

Install (new at your discretion) spark plugs, reinstall the spark plug wires in the proper order.
Start the engine and IDLE until it is warm.
Some of the chemicals will drain past the rings into the oil during the soak and will provide additional cleaning during the idle period.
Do a normal oil change and enjoy your cleaner pistons and rings.

If you suspect there is a lot of carbon/sludge in the engine it may be advisable to use a more cautious approach.

The cautious approach would possibly be Rislone or MMO in the oil as directed on the bottle along with Techron in the gas.
This along with frequent filter changes for a few OCI's will do a conservative cleanup.

Just my 2 cents discounted to free, so take it for what it's worth.

Good luck.

Rickey.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Run a short oci of valvoline maxlife and a full bottle of mos2. Get on the highway and drive three hours, change oil filter, top off and do it again. Drain everything at 1500, repeat then do it again at 3k. Also run a bottle of Gumout all in one during this process and try to clean throttle body before you start.

 

[fog_cutter]

I use nothing but K&N filters, you pay a little more for them, but they're unbeatable!!

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: fog_cutter
I use nothing but K&N filters, you pay a little more for them, but they're unbeatable!!


Aren't they either Korean, Mexican or Chinese made?

Much better American made filters for the money IMO.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: fog_cutter
I use nothing but K&N filters, you pay a little more for them, but they're unbeatable!!


Aren't they either Korean, Mexican or Chinese made?

Much better American made filters for the money IMO.


+1 ... plus their efficiency has went down some with the new K&Ns.

 

[GMBoy]

Originally Posted By: Rickey
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
If you actually think that your problem is ring sticking, there are products intended to be used as a piston soak, applied directly through the spark plug hole. Just a thought.....



For stuck/carboned piston rings I agree with 4wheeldog.

Remove the spark plugs and do a piston soak if you dare.

Please note that soaking pistons, adding solvents or extra detergents to the oil etc. has some risks involved.
Such as breaking large chunks of the deposits loose causing damage to the engine.

OK so the disclaimer is out of the way.

In my experience with various engines that narrowly escaped from the junk yard going back to the middle 70's:

I haven't damaged one yet with manufacturer recommended doses of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) or, Rislone in the crankcase, or carefully soaking pistons in Berrymans B12 Chemtool or acetone.

Some engines will respond favorably and some will remain the same depending on the exact nature of the problem.

For the piston soak procedure with the engine cool I remove the spark plugs after blowing away any debris that might fall into the spark plug holes with compressed air.

With a suitable funnel pour into each spark plug hole about 3 oz of Chemtool (or acetone) followed by about 1 oz of MMO. The MMO is mainly to provide some lubrication on start up after the procedure is finished.
Bonus points if you can use a breaker bar and suitable socket to slowly hand turn the engine a few rounds while the chemicals are in there.
Allow the chemicals to remain for over night or as much as 24 hours.

Then with shop towels placed to catch what might be ejected from the open spark plug holes; turn the engine over with the starter to displace any remaining chemicals from the combustion chambers.
Be sure the boot ends of the spark plug wires are positioned so that any sparks that might occur can't set a fire from the ejected chemicals, or disable the ignition by disconnecting the ignition coils primary circuit!

Install (new at your discretion) spark plugs, reinstall the spark plug wires in the proper order.
Start the engine and IDLE until it is warm.
Some of the chemicals will drain past the rings into the oil during the soak and will provide additional cleaning during the idle period.
Do a normal oil change and enjoy your cleaner pistons and rings.

If you suspect there is a lot of carbon/sludge in the engine it may be advisable to use a more cautious approach.

The cautious approach would possibly be Rislone or MMO in the oil as directed on the bottle along with Techron in the gas.
This along with frequent filter changes for a few OCI's will do a conservative cleanup.

Just my 2 cents discounted to free, so take it for what it's worth.

Good luck.

Rickey.



I like your procedure! That would work better and much faster not to mention safer. I would recommend the poster do this instead of running all that Risolone in the oil.