Best dino crud/sludge cleaner?

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When I first started working on engines, shine was not possible! Black was the color of engines (inside that is, they were orange on the outside!)
 
quote:

Originally posted by BrianWC:
Seriously though, it won't hurt!

I'll have to totally disagree with that statement. Keeping the engine from carboning up the rings, sludging, or varnishing is much more important than minimizing wear in the UOA. Any one of these will lead to taking the engine out of service before its time.
 
First you should know what you are disagreeing with. I meant a clean engine won't hurt. Even a varnish layer alters tolerances, affects heat transfer, and shortens longevity in general in comparision to a cleaner engine. I want mine as clean as possible.


quote:

Originally posted by Rodbuckler:

quote:

Originally posted by BrianWC:
Seriously though, it won't hurt!

I'll have to totally disagree with that statement. Keeping the engine from carboning up the rings, sludging, or varnishing is much more important than minimizing wear in the UOA. Any one of these will lead to taking the engine out of service before its time.


 
quote:

Originally posted by BrianWC:
First you should know what you are disagreeing with. I meant a clean engine won't hurt. Even a varnish layer alters tolerances, affects heat transfer, and shortens longevity in general in comparision to a cleaner engine. I want mine as clean as possible.


quote:

Originally posted by Rodbuckler:

quote:

Originally posted by BrianWC:
Seriously though, it won't hurt!

I'll have to totally disagree with that statement. Keeping the engine from carboning up the rings, sludging, or varnishing is much more important than minimizing wear in the UOA. Any one of these will lead to taking the engine out of service before its time.



If the rings are stuck you will never keep it clean.
 
Use any API certified dino oil, and change it every 3k miles. This won't clean the engine, but it will keep sludge at bay. Has worked for me for many years.
 
Then I am completely confused.
confused.gif


Most of these cleaners we talk about we mention in the context of keeping rings clean. Ad naseum in some cases.
 
Rings stuck, blow-by. Blow-by, partial combustion products into oil - along with more acid, fuel, and water.

Once rings are free, you are no longer fighting an uphill battle.
 
One data point, for what it's worth.

Engine: 2001 VW/Audi 1.8T, AUG version
Driving: suburbs, lots of stop&go, short trips
OCI: 6 months or 3k mi / 5k km
Oil: dino for the first 20k mi / 32k km, then Mobil 1 0W-40
Observations: During the first 3 drainings, the Mobil 1 came out looking pretty black. It looked MUCH cleaner on the most recent change. (Blackstone kit is ready and waiting for next oil change.
smile.gif
) Light varnish at filler hole, on valve cover only; vertical walls of head itself have always looked pristine. Varnish appears to have faded a bit.
 
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