comparing mobil drive clean with castrol gtx and penzoil..which one is better?? 10w-30 mobil drive clean user.
Best conventional oil
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Havoline is one of the best. Many years ago I sawt a compasion of the major brands and Havoline was ahead of them all.
I used Havoline 5W-30 in my 1999 K2500 Chevrolet fleet surburban. We were not permitted to use synthetics (Wheels lease was for 100,000 miles) and we had to go 5000 miles between changes, never sooner and often later. I always made sure the Havaoline went in because our last truck was run on Pennzoil and it used oil like it was going out off style and the 1993 F150 was worn out by 110,000 miles. I retired last month and the 'burb had 97,000 + miles and not once did I ever have to add oil between changes. By the time the 5000 miles were up it would be close to a qt low. That truck was a DOT GPS survey crew rig, it idled most of 40 hrs per week, pulled trailers, and was off road quite a bit. The engine was never touched and was running like new when I parked it on 10-24-02. Good truck, only thing it required in the 4 yrs 97,000 miles were brakes and often.
[ November 20, 2002, 07:35 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]
I used Havoline 5W-30 in my 1999 K2500 Chevrolet fleet surburban. We were not permitted to use synthetics (Wheels lease was for 100,000 miles) and we had to go 5000 miles between changes, never sooner and often later. I always made sure the Havaoline went in because our last truck was run on Pennzoil and it used oil like it was going out off style and the 1993 F150 was worn out by 110,000 miles. I retired last month and the 'burb had 97,000 + miles and not once did I ever have to add oil between changes. By the time the 5000 miles were up it would be close to a qt low. That truck was a DOT GPS survey crew rig, it idled most of 40 hrs per week, pulled trailers, and was off road quite a bit. The engine was never touched and was running like new when I parked it on 10-24-02. Good truck, only thing it required in the 4 yrs 97,000 miles were brakes and often.
[ November 20, 2002, 07:35 PM: Message edited by: Mike ]
It would be best to test in you motor,your driving styles then decide imo you skeptic you
I agree with both of Terry's points.
I've heard of this (now dated) study which proclaimed Havoline the best dino oil ... several formulations ago. But I've never seen it.
Can anyone provide me with a link? I'd like to see it.
--- Bror Jace
I've heard of this (now dated) study which proclaimed Havoline the best dino oil ... several formulations ago. But I've never seen it.
Can anyone provide me with a link? I'd like to see it.
--- Bror Jace
Chris...I would imagine that the Wal-Mart oil isn't QS but like the rest of the line blended by Specialty Petroleum, a blending plant purchased by QS before it was merged into PZ (and then into Shell, etc.,etc.) I asked Johnny a question about Wal-Mart oil--recently shifted to 5W30 for the winter and it looks different than their 10W30. I guess there's a chance that the 15W40 might be QS but I doubt it. I thought and Johnny confirmed that there might be a pretty good chance that Wal-Mart oil will become Shell once the Shreveport blending plant is closed because of extra capacity at Equilon.
I bought this case 5 months ago,then I called Pennzoil/Quaker State.The rep told me that it was QS oil.It had a shipping ticket that said "Quaker State oil refining co".Anyway,the oil worked well.I've also been a staunch user of Fram filters,but used a Purolater after reading this site.I've had 3 vehicles go over 150K,before I sold them,all using Quaker State oil and Fram filters.These are all Chrysler vehicles.
If there were no synthetic oils, I would use one of the "diesel" (and gasoline!) rated petroleum oils such as Shell, Chevron, Mobil...
I used to use Chevron Delo 400 before I became an Amsoil dealer. I consider it a good oil - I would change at 4K miles with my non-turbos and 3K max with my turbos.
I used to use Chevron Delo 400 before I became an Amsoil dealer. I consider it a good oil - I would change at 4K miles with my non-turbos and 3K max with my turbos.
Pablo, that's what I do, essentially. I wouldn't use an oil that thick in a newer car, but once the thing has 100,000 miles on the clock, it's probably a good choice for many vehicles, weather permitting.
Most of my lawn & garden equipment currently has Delo400 in it. Select machines have Schaeffer 7000 Supreme in them but if I had to use an off-the-shelf HD oil right now, I'd choose Pennzoil "Long Life" with its 150ppms of moly.
Those diesel oils, with their potent anti-corrosive package are also an excellent choice for vehicles which will sit for long periods of time between running.
--- Bror Jace
Most of my lawn & garden equipment currently has Delo400 in it. Select machines have Schaeffer 7000 Supreme in them but if I had to use an off-the-shelf HD oil right now, I'd choose Pennzoil "Long Life" with its 150ppms of moly.
Those diesel oils, with their potent anti-corrosive package are also an excellent choice for vehicles which will sit for long periods of time between running.
--- Bror Jace
Patman
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But if the oil you chose on a new car is doing it's job right, that engine should still be within factory specs even after 100k, so the need for a thicker oil shouldn't be there at all.
for a half a dozen years now I've been using Rotella 15-40 in all of my vehicles, year-round. Even my 3 1950s Ford tractors use. I've got over 100k on 2 of the vehicles and no adding of oil between changes. 1 for Rotella....
Patman, good point. But if your vehicle has had say ... a glycol leak for a year or more and you're looking for a slightly thicker oil to quiet things down, a heavy duty 15W40 is not a bad choice.
Gonna try it in my Civic this spring.
dirtymudder different engines respond to the heavier oils differently. Newer 4-cylinder engines are designed to run on 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 and the like. Until they get really loosened up, I wouldn't bother with a thicker oil. It may not help ... and it may gum things up.
--- Bror Jace
dirtymudder different engines respond to the heavier oils differently. Newer 4-cylinder engines are designed to run on 5W20, 5W30, 10W30 and the like. Until they get really loosened up, I wouldn't bother with a thicker oil. It may not help ... and it may gum things up.
--- Bror Jace
Patman
Staff member
True, in your Civic because of the problems and the piston slap, you might want to try the thicker oil, but I was speaking about any future cars for you. I'm sure that you'll pick a good oil and then after 100k that engine will still be practically new inside.
Patman, it's true my car has piston slap, but that doesn't seem to be too bad since I switched away from Mobil 1 Tri-Syn & Valvoline Synpower and to Red Line & Schaeffer oil. .
This new noise is something different ... and I'm afraid that glycol has taken its toll on my bearings and they are now making a light knocking noise.
Yes, my new car will have its lubrication situation all sorted out from day one.
In the spring, I'll be going the 15W40 route. But, this winter I'll be using Schaeffer 7000 5W30 with a pint of #132 Moly E.P.
Now, the question is, should I have that winter batch of oil tested.
I will be sending away a sample of 10W30 Supreme 7000 in a couple weeks to be tested ... and I said to myself at the time that it would be my last sample test for a while.
As for my next car, that's another topic entirely ...
--- Bror Jace
This new noise is something different ... and I'm afraid that glycol has taken its toll on my bearings and they are now making a light knocking noise.
Yes, my new car will have its lubrication situation all sorted out from day one.
In the spring, I'll be going the 15W40 route. But, this winter I'll be using Schaeffer 7000 5W30 with a pint of #132 Moly E.P.
Now, the question is, should I have that winter batch of oil tested.
As for my next car, that's another topic entirely ...
--- Bror Jace
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