Best 2 stroke oil

The viscosity of the unmixed oil does not necessarily translate to the viscosity of the residual oil in the hot combustion chamber after a significant fraction has flashed off and burned. We don't know the viscosity in the engine. Of the four oils mentioned above, Echo has the highest unmixed oil viscosity, but also the lowest flash point. What does that mean regarding the residual oil viscosity at operating temperature? At operating temperature, the viscosity of the various residual oils is probably very similar.
I think each engine type, size, etc... can make a big difference. Chainsaws tend to do well on Red Armor but my br800 4-mix blower does not. It gets a varnish of sorts on the piston crown. I saw a video of a one year old srm-2620 on RA only and the piston crown was black. Shocker!
 
I think each engine type, size, etc... can make a big difference. Chainsaws tend to do well on Red Armor but my br800 4-mix blower does not. It gets a varnish of sorts on the piston crown. I saw a video of a one year old srm-2620 on RA only and the piston crown was black. Shocker!
My understanding is that chainsaws run very hot and chainsaw-specific 2stroke oils have to be very resistant to heat, but don't have to actually lubricate that well. Had that discussion decades ago when Stihl oil made it to the old country and everyone with anything 2 stroke jumped on it like it was the best thing after sliced bread.
Castor oil (the real one, not castor oil based 2 stroke oils) behaves the same. Except it actually does lubricate better the hotter the engine gets (within its physical limits of course). But use it in something that doesn't run that hot and good morning gunk.
 
Whatever has a yellow tag at Walmart.
My stuff isn't fussy.
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My understanding is that chainsaws run very hot and chainsaw-specific 2stroke oils have to be very resistant to heat, but don't have to actually lubricate that well. Had that discussion decades ago when Stihl oil made it to the old country and everyone with anything 2 stroke jumped on it like it was the best thing after sliced bread.
Castor oil (the real one, not castor oil based 2 stroke oils) behaves the same. Except it actually does lubricate better the hotter the engine gets (within its physical limits of course). But use it in something that doesn't run that hot and good morning gunk.
I have seen such a mixed bag of comments...
My understanding is that chainsaws run very hot and chainsaw-specific 2stroke oils have to be very resistant to heat, but don't have to actually lubricate that well. Had that discussion decades ago when Stihl oil made it to the old country and everyone with anything 2 stroke jumped on it like it was the best thing after sliced bread.
Castor oil (the real one, not castor oil based 2 stroke oils) behaves the same. Except it actually does lubricate better the hotter the engine gets (within its physical limits of course). But use it in something that doesn't run that hot and good morning gunk.
Buckin Billy Ray Smith uses mineral oil unless he has changed. smh at that. I prefer to use the very best combination of lubrication and cleanliness, whatever that is. Hot weather, cold weather, heavy load or not... is one oil and one ratio all that is available for multiple types of equipment on the same day???? Which one oil with one ratio can perform the best under that scenario? The best I've used so far is Amsoil Saber @ 50:1, but I will try several motorcycle oils soon. My 029, old but in great condition, weakling chainsaw will gobble any oil, but I have to say that Honda HP2 @ 50:1 cleaned that thing's piston in one day, and left it shiny and wet with a clean exhaust and sparkplug. It left too much carbon in my br800 blower.
 
I have seen such a mixed bag of comments...

Buckin Billy Ray Smith uses mineral oil unless he has changed. smh at that. I prefer to use the very best combination of lubrication and cleanliness, whatever that is. Hot weather, cold weather, heavy load or not... is one oil and one ratio all that is available for multiple types of equipment on the same day???? Which one oil with one ratio can perform the best under that scenario? The best I've used so far is Amsoil Saber @ 50:1, but I will try several motorcycle oils soon. My 029, old but in great condition, weakling chainsaw will gobble any oil, but I have to say that Honda HP2 @ 50:1 cleaned that thing's piston in one day, and left it shiny and wet with a clean exhaust and sparkplug. It left too much carbon in my br800 blower.
What I meant is that if memory serves - Stihl 2 stroke oil (the one specific for chainsaws) is tailored to chainsaw requirements - mostly to operating temps higher than what you'd see in 2 stroke motorcycles, but its lubricating abilities are not necessarily stellar and/or matched to motorcycle needs (different rpm ranges, exhaust valves that can gum up, etc). Info as of 20+ years ago.
 
What I meant is that if memory serves - Stihl 2 stroke oil (the one specific for chainsaws) is tailored to chainsaw requirements - mostly to operating temps higher than what you'd see in 2 stroke motorcycles, but its lubricating abilities are not necessarily stellar and/or matched to motorcycle needs (different rpm ranges, exhaust valves that can gum up, etc). Info as of 20+ years ago.
I have seen it posted umpteen times that Ultra was designed specifically for 4-mix engines. Honestly, there is no way that Ultra could be designed for a chainsaw and 4-mix and be the best oil for both. So, whichever one it is Stihl needs to get off the pot and fix that oil for the other one. Meanwhile, I think Ultra stinks, and it smells bad too. Ultra in the UK is rated FD. Wonder why we can't get that????
 
I have seen it posted umpteen times that Ultra was designed specifically for 4-mix engines. Honestly, there is no way that Ultra could be designed for a chainsaw and 4-mix and be the best oil for both. So, whichever one it is Stihl needs to get off the pot and fix that oil for the other one. Meanwhile, I think Ultra stinks, and it smells bad too. Ultra in the UK is rated FD. Wonder why we can't get that????
I don't disagree, because - as I mentioned above - my information is old and might no longer be relevant.
 
I just ran Stihl Ultra at 45:1 and got good results. Low temp, high rpm, clean sparkplug. The piston was still dark but exhaust port was good. Ran 3 gallons. I had a dirty disaster with it months ago. Different gas, summer weather now. It is what it is . Even smelled ok. Good gas is always elusive. Got this batch at Buccee's in Tanner, AL.
 
I like Echo Red Armor for its cleaning ability. I kind of look at it like Valvoline Restore & Protect, but for 2 strokes. Keeps the carb clean and will clean existing carbon from the rings and muffler plus it will keep it running clean. I run it at 32:1 in my 30+ year old LawnBoy mower and Husqvarna blower/vac. The blower recommends 50:1 if I recall, but it seems to be fine on the 32:1 and I only use it as a vacuum for leaves since I have a Milwaukee blower, so it only sees 1-2 tanks of fuel per year.
 
For 2T motorcycles like my 300 Beta I'm a Motul 800 fan. Been using it pretty much exclusively for over 2 decades.

For my cousins 1977 CR 125M I'm using the Maxima 927 castor bean oil. Being it's a piston port design and air cooled 100 octane and bean oil seems the way to go.
 
Watch Richard Flaggs YouTube videos on 2stroke oil! He is a small engine mechanic who mainly works in saws and has a lot of experience in this area.

He did testing with a bunch of different oils at different ratios. While he was unable to put a ton of hours on each one he did run them for a couple tanks and then tore the engines down. It’s hands down the best testing I’ve seen done and the results are interesting.

If you don’t have the time to watch a few hours of his videos on the subject then it can be summed up as this. Stihl Ultra is hands down the worst oil on the market at any ratio. 50-1 is not enough oil to keep the bottom end lubricated even with the best oils. 40-1 is about ideal for modern engines with high quality modern 2 stroke oils. High quality stroke motorcycle oils like Honda HP2 are as good if not better than lawn and garden oils (at least in saws). Red armor, Saber, and Dominator run at 40-1 are all excellent oils as well.

I personally run Red armor at 40-1 in everything due to many other factors including the cleaning ability of it and the fact I can get it in gallon jugs or 5 gallon buckets at the landscaping supply store a few miles up the road from me, for a reasonable price, while many others 2T oils are only sold in quart bottles or even smaller bottles for much higher prices per fluid ounce.
 
Where did you get that oil from?
I haven't seen it on the Mobil website or online.
As previous poster stated it is no longer made. Issue with a lot of the 2T oils like Mobil was is when it comes time for a top end. The excessive ash content is a pain in the rear to clean off the power valves.

A good way to check for ash without removing top end is to pull your pipe and inspect the ring lands. If they are clean then the oil is most likely low ash. Of course this does not work if you are a hard core throttle twister who runs in the upper range of rpm.
 
Whatever has a yellow tag at Walmart.
My stuff isn't fussy.
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That is a very special oil made for the Johnson Evinrude E-TEC engines (if I remember correctly). That's why E-TEC is with big letters and first bullet says "Direct Injection Oil". I've read once the PDS of this oil—it's very thin oil and is not designed for premix.
I'll be happy if you show me where on the label says premix.
 
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