- Joined
- Jul 19, 2021
- Messages
- 415
Any JASO FD rated oil will be fine. I prefer Husqvarna XP+ then VP syn.
Oil for Stihls 2 stroke small engine for Weed eating
- Thread starter asker123
- Start date
Have 6 pieces of Stihl equipment 3 from new and 3 used that took very little to get running. Have tried several brands of oil and only use gray bottle Stihl now. Also only use 92 or 93 octane top tier gas in air cooled engines.
Echo red armor or moto mix. Both great. Skip any walmart stuff, no need to make them any richer than they already are.
"...any two stroke oil..."
not 30w or cc oil.
Skip the pre mix.
Just like coolant (antifrez/antiboil) Y pay another to do the very small labor involved? They charge U 4 that.
Buy in 'bigger bottles' as the unit price declines. Go for expensive or cheep oil, whatever U want. I worked the woods for decades
and the top line equipment (Husky, Stihl, Jonsereeds) contractor grades (heavy duty) lasted just as long w/this as was possible.
I stay away frm Wally's Workd due to their wealth/politics. Cant vouch for them but I often find/use stuff @ same price point.
not 30w or cc oil.
Skip the pre mix.
Just like coolant (antifrez/antiboil) Y pay another to do the very small labor involved? They charge U 4 that.
Buy in 'bigger bottles' as the unit price declines. Go for expensive or cheep oil, whatever U want. I worked the woods for decades
and the top line equipment (Husky, Stihl, Jonsereeds) contractor grades (heavy duty) lasted just as long w/this as was possible.
I stay away frm Wally's Workd due to their wealth/politics. Cant vouch for them but I often find/use stuff @ same price point.
I use either Echo Red Armor or Amsoil Saber mixed at 40:1 in ethanol free rec fuel for all of my lawn equipment. Whether it’s my Echo CS370 saw, Husqvarna 128LD trimmer, Hitachi leaf blower, or my three vintage/antique Lawn-Boys. One fuel can for all the machines. I won’t mix any thinner than that because I have an email from Amsoil stating that they don’t recommend going any leaner than 50:1 in old Lawn-Boys.
L8R,
Matt
L8R,
Matt
Yep, new corvettes are filled with Synthetic oil from the factory.
I have the Stihl Ultra synthetic stuff in all my equipment currently because they had a deal when I bought my Stihl SR200. Runs great in all of my machines. I run it at 50:1 with ethanol-free gas and Stabil in a bunch of Echo stuff as well as a few other machines from Poulan, Redmax, and Hitachi.
Is that oil for air cooled stuff?
The gray bottle Stihl Ultra synthetic despite all the miss informed info on LoserTube is good stuff, my saw has yet to blow up or seize a crank or piston, it just keeps cutting and cutting.
I run Saber mixed 80:1 in everything 2 cycle.
I’ve used Amsoil, Stihl Ultra, and Red Armor and I couldn’t tell you a difference. I’ve got several hundred hours on my equipment. Fuel concerns are the more pressing issue
My Stihl weed trimmer ran great for many years on whatever oil I could find at the hardware store.
Another thought, worry less about the oil and use a quality non ethanol fuel with ANY JASO FD oil.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,118
Couldn't tell the difference among 2-stroke oils. All my oil burners run 50:1 as required after break-in.
I don't use enough fuel to bother mixing my own anymore. Mixed up 5 gallons of ethanol free fuel, some stabilizer, and 2 stroke oil... .and then 1 year later dumping 2-4 gallons into the car to use up the ol' fuel and repeat. 30 years later and now tired of the hassle. Made no difference what 2-stroke small engine oil used!
So, now I just buy whatever 50:1 quart happens to be at the store. My echo/stihl/husqvarna/poulan all run great and makes no difference if its SEF, Trufuel, VPracing, Redmax, Husqvarna, Stihl RedArmor, or Powercare fuel.
If similar competitor oils make that much of a difference, then you have a carb tuning problem, ignition/plug issues, stale fuel, or a junk engine
The local Stihl dealer extends the warranty if you buy their fuel/oil at the same time of the equipment. So, that was a no brainer when buying the new equipment here....
The local Echo dealer tosses in a gallon of their Redarmor 50:1 to avoid 'fuel/oil' comebacks that dealer said were all too common(dumb consumers that can't mix or use stale fuel).
In the ol' days, we broke all engines in with double oil. So, if you required 50:1, the 1st tank/quart/gallon was 25:1. It was actually required for some engines back then. Nobody remembers the 16:1, 25:1, or 32:1 engines? Don't see the anti greenie polluting break-in recommendation anymore. So, my recent engines all got a quart of 40:1 premix as their break-in fuel before switching to the required 50:1.
The EPA can be beat out of most 2strokers with a little carb tuning and porting.
I don't practice the 'marketing' of some fancy oil brands that state to run 80-100:1 when the manufacturer recommends 50:1. And, don't use marine oil in your small engine unless recommended by the manufacturer. This is when you read your owners manual and verify the type of oil required and the ratio. Since I don't have a snowmobile or outboard anymore, all my 2strokers run the same fueloil now.
I don't use enough fuel to bother mixing my own anymore. Mixed up 5 gallons of ethanol free fuel, some stabilizer, and 2 stroke oil... .and then 1 year later dumping 2-4 gallons into the car to use up the ol' fuel and repeat. 30 years later and now tired of the hassle. Made no difference what 2-stroke small engine oil used!
So, now I just buy whatever 50:1 quart happens to be at the store. My echo/stihl/husqvarna/poulan all run great and makes no difference if its SEF, Trufuel, VPracing, Redmax, Husqvarna, Stihl RedArmor, or Powercare fuel.
If similar competitor oils make that much of a difference, then you have a carb tuning problem, ignition/plug issues, stale fuel, or a junk engine
The local Stihl dealer extends the warranty if you buy their fuel/oil at the same time of the equipment. So, that was a no brainer when buying the new equipment here....
The local Echo dealer tosses in a gallon of their Redarmor 50:1 to avoid 'fuel/oil' comebacks that dealer said were all too common(dumb consumers that can't mix or use stale fuel).
In the ol' days, we broke all engines in with double oil. So, if you required 50:1, the 1st tank/quart/gallon was 25:1. It was actually required for some engines back then. Nobody remembers the 16:1, 25:1, or 32:1 engines? Don't see the anti greenie polluting break-in recommendation anymore. So, my recent engines all got a quart of 40:1 premix as their break-in fuel before switching to the required 50:1.
The EPA can be beat out of most 2strokers with a little carb tuning and porting.
I don't practice the 'marketing' of some fancy oil brands that state to run 80-100:1 when the manufacturer recommends 50:1. And, don't use marine oil in your small engine unless recommended by the manufacturer. This is when you read your owners manual and verify the type of oil required and the ratio. Since I don't have a snowmobile or outboard anymore, all my 2strokers run the same fueloil now.
Premix Calculator
Easily calculate the appropriate premix for a 2-stroke engine with this gas oil mix ratio calculator. Calculate fuel mixtures 50:1, 40:1 and more.
www.premixcalculator.com
There are three kinds, which are marked on the front label. The "Universal" and "Full Synthetic" types are listed for air-cooled engines. The "Outboard" type is obviously a TC-W specification.
For me, the value in pre-mix "Engineered fuel" isn't in convenience but rather composition.
It's not easy to find ethanol free gasoline around here. Canned fuel is expensive, but a $6 quart can lasts me all season with some left over in the trimmer and blower for my uses.
I mix gasoline for my lawnmower as I mix it 32:1(not 50:1 like the other small equipment) of E10 and can use a gallon in a month. The other stuff-it's worth $6 to have ethanol-free fuel that I know is good. If I were using a gallon a week of 50:1, the math would change a lot.
I don't see it being the same as concentrated vs. pre-diluted antifreeze at all. The last time I needed antifreeze, I paid $22 for a gallon of Zerex gold and $1 for a gallon of distilled water. That gave me the equivalent of two $18 bottles of 50-50, but the key is it was easy and cheap for me to find distilled water.
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2020
- Messages
- 387
Get yourself a gallon of VP Fuels full synthetic 50:1 Pre Mix. Why? Because it's good.
94 Octane
Cleans like there's no tomorrow. My spark plugs are nifty perfect.
Super easy starts.
No winterizing, can leave it in all winter.
Product good for 5 years in a sealed can.
Has all the specs you need.
Better than True Fuel.
Revs up really high, too.
Personally, I can't understand why I waited so long to make the switch. Visit your local Tractor Supply.
94 Octane
Cleans like there's no tomorrow. My spark plugs are nifty perfect.
Super easy starts.
No winterizing, can leave it in all winter.
Product good for 5 years in a sealed can.
Has all the specs you need.
Better than True Fuel.
Revs up really high, too.
Personally, I can't understand why I waited so long to make the switch. Visit your local Tractor Supply.
I've used the VP Racing pre-mix a few times and have been happy with it. Tru-fuel unfortunately seems to be hit or miss as far as the batches. I've had equipment come in that wouldn't rev up, drained out their tru-fuel and put my own fuel in and it worked fine. I've been recommending the VP to my customers, since now it is hard for me to recommend Tru-fuel with the issues I've seen with it.
Have you checked out chickanic on youtube? She had recent youtubes with the the same results as you concerning the hit and miss of Tru-fuel. I find her channel interesting, informative and useful as some others on youtube.
