Bent steel wheel?

[Deontologist]

Update to my car vibrates when accelerating problem: the shop that did the CVs earlier says that the persistent vibrations have to do with not the CVs but bent front rims. I didn't know I had bent steel rims.

I have factory steel rims.

My question is: repair or replace?

My shop says they can't/won't attempt bending it back but says a tire shop should be able to help.

I'm leaning toward total replacement because I've gotten the tires balanced 2 times at Discount Tire recently and never once have they mentioned anything about bent rims and I'm tired of going back to DT to get them to do the balancing correctly. The first time I got it balanced was after a flat repair. I had horrible vibrations right after the flat repair. Took it back to DT for another balance, which helped, but there was still some residual vibration, which I'm assuming is from the bent rims. I don't know how balancing machines work, but it seems odd to me that a bent rim could be "successfully" balanced by the machine. The DT tech gave my car back without a word about bent rims, being unable to fully balance the wheels, etc.

So that's why I'm leaning toward complete rim replacement. Instead of having a shop try to eyeball the rim and smack it a few times with a hammer and then fiddle around with the balancing machine, which apparently doesn't even give reliable results, why not start with a mostly true set of wheels?

In other words: I don't want my bent rims to be kinda sorta bent back into the proper shape, and then kinda sorta balanced, and then I have to keep running back to a tire shop for another balance. This is exactly what has been happening--going back to DT 2x only to result in going from a severely unbalanced wheel to a somewhat balanced wheel. I want the solution that works the first time. Would the solution that works the first time be a more competent tire shop than DT, or buying brand new rims, or perhaps both would be be equally good?

Your thoughts?

 

[Nick1994]

I read through your other thread. I doubt you have bent rims, but if you do, rotate your tires front to back and see if your vibration changes at all. If so, it is your wheels. If not, it's likely still an axle.

Aftermarket axles are junk, I've had a bad one before.

The way to go would be to get a used axle and if the boots are bad have a shop replace just the boots and install the axle. CV axles are typically a lifetime part, so used ones from a junkyard are 99% likely to be fine for years to come. Shops are lazy and usually want to just replace the whole axle, it's a much more pleasant job.

www.car-part.com is a website that searches junkyard inventory. A lot of the time these yards already have the part pulled and on a rack ready to purchase, or they'll pull it for you. The part you're looking for is under "axle shaft".

If you do end up having a bent wheel, they're a good source for an OEM matching wheel as well. My grandma had hit a curb and ruined a wheel on her Grand Caravan. The dealership wanted $450 after tax for just the wheel itself, I found a matching aluminum wheel that was flawless for $100 on there.

 

[Oillover]

If the metal isn't cracked, all you need is a big enough hammer to bend it back into shape.
I did something similar on my Volvo 240 wagon (being young and foolish).
When the tech at the shop saw it, a hammer was all it took to get it "true" again. No additional wheel weights needed.

That's the beauty of steel wheels, they take a beating and keep on rolling!

 

[ekrampitzjr]

A steel wheel warped on my old Ford Escort years ago, and I replaced it with a wheel from a salvage yard. A tire shop pointed out the problem to me when I went to get that wheel rebalanced.

That could be what happened to you. Warping is rare, but does happen. In other words, your wheel might have warped instead of getting bent.

It happens to brake discs, so why not wheels?

 

[D60]

I too am skeptical and I also say rotate front to back.

Also a cheap mag base and dial indicator will give you a clue if any wheel is truly worse than another. Be warned, there's more runout in rims than you'd think, but you'll be looking for relative differences, not zero TIR

 

[Falcon_LS]

If a replacement is more cost effective than getting the bent wheel fixed, I would go with that.

I had 18" steel wheels that were out of round. The Michelin dealer mounted the wheel on a road force balancing machine and used a marking crayon to show me where it was bent; around here it cost me $40 to fix per wheel which is pocket change compared to $250 for one new wheel. Their machine shop fixed it up and the wheel was road force balanced perfectly (needed 15 g to be precise).

 

[nthach]

In the past, a steel wheel can be fixed. Now, a basic steelie is made with HSLA steel and won’t respond to reshaping it.

Discount/America’s Tire and TireRack carry a “universal” steel wheel that fits all the major lug patterns but in different offsets. Try to find an OE wheel, Fumagalli is the predominant North American OE wheel.

 

[Escape08]

If it was me, I'll replace the entire set with used alloy wheels. Your gas mileage will greatly improve. Steel wheels are heavier than alloys.

 

[Astro14]

Steady state vibration at a certain speed = wheel.

Vibration on acceleration = axle.

You need a new, not rebuilt, but new, good quality axle.

Rebuilds from big box auto parts stores are nearly always junk, they’re not worth it.

We talked about this, at length, in your other thread. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/vibration-while-accelerating-during-turn.367153/

Fix that problem with a new axle. Once that is fixed, only then can you tell if you have actually have a bent rim.

 

[MParr]

Steady state vibration at a certain speed = wheel.

Vibration on acceleration = axle.

You need a new, not rebuilt, but new, good quality axle.

Rebuilds from big box auto parts stores are nearly always junk, they’re not worth it.

We talked about this, at length, in your other thread. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/vibration-while-accelerating-during-turn.367153/

Fix that problem with a new axle. Once that is fixed, only then can you tell if you have actually have a bent rim.

Bad engine and or transmission mounts can cause a vibration under acceleration too.

 

[Astro14]

Bad engine and or transmission mounts can cause a vibration under acceleration too.

Read through his previous thread - while what you say is true, he had “new” axles installed. But they’re cheap ones, specifically, not OEM. That axle choice by his shop is the more likely cause.

 

[MParr]

Read through his previous thread - while what you say is true, he had “new” axles installed. But they’re cheap ones, specifically, not OEM. That axle choice by his shop is the more likely cause.

I read it. However, there still could be bad mounts.
A good going over will pinpoint the problem.
With axles, it’s always best to go with OEM.

 

[PF52]

I bent a steel wheel on a huge pothole,,, Local tire shop was able to straighten it for $20 and I used it for about another 150K miles afterward. No complaints. Traditional steel is more elastic than aluminum but I can't speak for the above-mentioned new formula steel.

 

[atikovi]

If it was me, I'll replace the entire set with used alloy wheels. Your gas mileage will greatly improve. Steel wheels are heavier than alloys.

Say WHAT?

 

[D60]

I wanted a replacement 17" steelie for my '07 F150 that looked like the rest so I could work it into rotations. I ordered from a JY on ebay and found it surprisingly inexpensive including shipping.

The wheel was well-packaged and I made sure to leave them glowing fb.

Point being if you feel you must focus on the wheel aspect, you might look used first, unless perhaps you have a make where wheels are notorious for bending.

Also, did someone ask and I missed it: was the condition present BEFORE this shop R&R'd your half shafts?? Or did your wheels magically become bent after new axles were installed?

Also, HOW did they come to condemn a wheel? If they only checked it on the vehicle it could still be something from the axle job such as improperly seated wb or rotor (rust jacking, debris, burs etc). Any of these would create excessive runout at the OD which could look like a bent wheel. I'd expect runout to be very similar both on the vehicle and on something like a balancing machine (or anything else with tight bearings that allows you to hold the wheel securely from the WMS)

 

[Deontologist]

Also, did someone ask and I missed it: was the condition present BEFORE this shop R&R'd your half shafts?? Or did your wheels magically become bent after new axles were installed?

No, the only problem before new axles were installed were:

1) Clicking sound when turning (I heard this myself)
2) Torn boots spewing grease (according to shop)

Only after the new axles were installed have I been dealing with:

1) Persistent vibrations

I don't want to tell the service rep that his shop mechanic/owner is lying to me or something. I do want to believe them, as they've been very straight with me in the past and have done what I felt to be a good job on my other vehicles.

They also mentioned to me that my maintenance light was on (true) and that my rear brake pads were worn (probably true, I can't even remember the last time I touched those) but they also didn't try to push an oil change or brake pad job on me, stating that they weren't sure if I do those things myself (I do). So it seems like they are trustworthy instead of just trying to push every single little job on me?

Also, HOW did they come to condemn a wheel? If they only checked it on the vehicle it could still be something from the axle job such as improperly seated wb or rotor (rust jacking, debris, burs etc). Any of these would create excessive runout at the OD which could look like a bent wheel. I'd expect runout to be very similar both on the vehicle and on something like a balancing machine (or anything else with tight bearings that allows you to hold the wheel securely from the WMS)

I'm not sure, but from what I heard over the phone from the service rep was that they put it on the lift and "discovered" the two bent front rims.

I suppose I should just take the car to a dedicated tire/rim shop instead of DT and get an opinion from some true wheel/rim professionals instead of DT.

 

[MParr]

No, the only problem before new axles were installed were:

1) Clicking sound when turning (I heard this myself)
2) Torn boots spewing grease (according to shop)

Only after the new axles were installed have I been dealing with:

1) Persistent vibrations

I don't want to tell the service rep that his shop mechanic/owner is lying to me or something. I do want to believe them, as they've been very straight with me in the past and have done what I felt to be a good job on my other vehicles.

They also mentioned to me that my maintenance light was on (true) and that my rear brake pads were worn (probably true, I can't even remember the last time I touched those) but they also didn't try to push an oil change or brake pad job on me, stating that they weren't sure if I do those things myself (I do). So it seems like they are trustworthy instead of just trying to push every single little job on me?



I'm not sure, but from what I heard over the phone from the service rep was that they put it on the lift and "discovered" the two bent front rims.

I suppose I should just take the car to a dedicated tire/rim shop instead of DT and get an opinion from some true wheel/rim professionals instead of DT.

Tell the shop to get the front end off of the ground and simulate your driving conditions.
A good mechanic will spot a bad axle. A good mechanic know a bad engine or transmission mount, when he observes abnormal engine torquing.
Tell him you want to see these tests done for yourself.
If you have access to a floor jack, jack stands, and wheel chocks, you can perform these tests yourself.

I can tell you from experience, you can get a new axle or remanufactured axle that is bad.

 

[IndyIan]

Put the front end on jack stands and start the car, and put it in D. You'll see if the rims are bent or warped enough to matter.
TBH I think your mechanic is looking for excuses for bad axles since the problem only showed up after...

 

[MParr]

But the front end on jack stands and start the car, and put it in D. You'll see if the rims are bent or warped enough to matter.
TBH I think your mechanic is looking for excuses for bad axles since the problem only showed up after...

I agree.

 

[D60]

No, the only problem before new axles were installed were:

1) Clicking sound when turning (I heard this myself)
2) Torn boots spewing grease (according to shop)

Only after the new axles were installed have I been dealing with:

{snip}
I'm not sure, but from what I heard over the phone from the service rep was that they put it on the lift and "discovered" the two bent front rims.

I suppose I should just take the car to a dedicated tire/rim shop instead of DT and get an opinion from some true wheel/rim professionals instead of DT.

Thanks for the response. Sadly, it seems to me they could potentially verify their diagnosis by simply rotating the tires and driving again. But it would take time because the tech would have to first test drive it and experience the complaint, then rotate and drive again to see if anything changed.

I think they don't want to do the job again and so want to blame anything other than new parts they installed. Or at the very least I don't understand why relatively simple steps to verify diagnoses are not pursued....

And depending upon their relationship with their supplier they could make a labor claim on defective parts, but these are notoriously painful to discourage shops from doing so.