Awhile ago I had a post about this but I recently got more information and the last post kinda veered in a different direction so I figured I'd start a new one. I'm having an issue with my hub wobbling on an AAM 10.5 (14 bolt). I have it stripped down to just the hub. I am getting .010 run out when I spin the hub. If I take the axle shaft out I get hardly any runout. I thought maybe the axle shaft was bent causing the problem. So I have a spare axle I can use for parts so I put that axle shaft in and I get the same .010. Does anyone have any more ideas on what to check? I don't think a bent spindle would cause this. I have already tried a different complete hub with bearings. I'm thinking it's causing a vibration or shake while driving because I've had multiple sets of tires and wheels in it and it seems to always have the same shake. Thanks for any input.
Chevy full floating axle
- Thread starter chilson450
- Start date
On the face where the rotor sits
Did you measure the other side? Maybe swap the left and right side axles/hubs and see if the runout stays on the same side? If it does I would have to say it’s the housing. Ten thousands of an inch isn’t much but if your truck has 20” inch wheels it would be a lot more as the circumference increases.
I feel your pain, shimmy drives me crazy.
I feel your pain, shimmy drives me crazy.
On a full floater rear, what would be the alternative?
I'm still wondering if the .010" is a red herring. I've said before I've chucked up rear shafts for Jeep CJ AMC 20s and nothing was concentric about anything and runout on the face was a lot -- I no longer remember how much.
That said, CJs were probably so rough, noisy and relatively slow you wouldn't notice.
Anyway, I agree with swapping hubs and seeing if runout follows. If it's TRULY at the (rotor) WMS you can press out the wheel studs and take a skim cut there, but you'll have to be sure it's held on some sort of arbor that accurately simulates the spindle on the axle housing. Honestly, a brake lathe might hold promise.
That said, CJs were probably so rough, noisy and relatively slow you wouldn't notice.
Anyway, I agree with swapping hubs and seeing if runout follows. If it's TRULY at the (rotor) WMS you can press out the wheel studs and take a skim cut there, but you'll have to be sure it's held on some sort of arbor that accurately simulates the spindle on the axle housing. Honestly, a brake lathe might hold promise.
I dunno, he specified AAM 10.5 (shrug). Seems enough detail to know how the wheel bearings are configured, but maybe I'm overlooking something
This is a full floating axle with inner and outer tapered bearings.
What is confusing me is when I check runout with out an axle shaft in, the runout is near zero. I even tried it with another axle shaft and it went back to the 10 thousandths.
What is confusing me is when I check runout with out an axle shaft in, the runout is near zero. I even tried it with another axle shaft and it went back to the 10 thousandths.
Ok, for shiggles and gits, what if you increase bearing preload? Have you tried this?
Or torque the shaft flange bolts fully weighted?
It sounds like carrier splines aren't dead concentric with the spindle, or there's a fault in the shaft but you said you tried another shaft.
In fact there are tools to make sure the housing is dead true and sighted through. @clinebarger has said he does this on some go-fast rear ends before even dreaming of touching them.
I'm trying to visualize this but having a little trouble.....At times I need to see & touch it physically 
Maybe apply some preload to the bearings, Slide the axle in (Clean flanges) & see it the axle sits on the hub flange square......Even tough you'd think the axle would just run crooked (Maintain the bend caused by a tweaked housing)
What about something in the diff carrier/side gear, Too bad you can't easily access the side gear because the closed carrier on 10.5 corporate diffs.
Maybe apply some preload to the bearings, Slide the axle in (Clean flanges) & see it the axle sits on the hub flange square......Even tough you'd think the axle would just run crooked (Maintain the bend caused by a tweaked housing)
What about something in the diff carrier/side gear, Too bad you can't easily access the side gear because the closed carrier on 10.5 corporate diffs.
Also, check runout on the shaft flange mounting surface of the hub?
I suppose if it were not faced square it would want to wobble once bolted to a shaft that's true. Still, it seems wheel bearings should be able to fight this off easily.
I'm just trying to think of free and easy things to look at until it comes into focus....
I suppose if it were not faced square it would want to wobble once bolted to a shaft that's true. Still, it seems wheel bearings should be able to fight this off easily.
I'm just trying to think of free and easy things to look at until it comes into focus....
Well I tried another hub and axle shaft today. It was reading about 6 thousandths. So it is better than what it was. I also checked the other side and it was also at 6 thousandths. Still has zero to 1 thousandths with no axle shaft. But as soon as I put either axle shaft in it wants to have a slight wobble.
burbguy82
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there are eight possible positions ( I think )that the axle could be clocked at, as they are 8 bolts on the axle flange, try clocking on hole at a time, then check....................other than that, no clue.
You are using a torque wrench to tighten bolts?
Really, the axle should have no bearing on the hub spinning.....weird
Chevy shake. Pretty common, google.
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