I'm working on my 2008 Chevy 2500hd. It has the AAM 10.5 (14 bolt) rear axle. I'm noticing my left rear has a wobble to it. The tire and wheel assembly as well as the rotor. I jacked it up and the caliper is sliding in and out on the caliper slides. I've cleaned the hub face and also put brand new rotors on it. Hasn't changed it. This is a full floating axle with heavy cast hubs so I'm doubting that it got bent. Possibly machined incorrectly? Anyone have ideas?
Axle hub flange runout
- Thread starter chilson450
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ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
I have the rearend in two trucks. How much wobble do you have? Let me edit I have had the rearend in two truck. What is the mileage?
Run it with the rotor off to make 100% sure the axle's mounting point isn't bent.
Then keep adding stuff until you see the wobble.
In this case I had a wobble with the drum installed as well as with the drum and wheel. When I ran it with just the wheel and no drum, the wobble went away, ergo, bad drum.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2024
My 02 had a slight wobble turned out to be the rim.
At the rotor there's probably 1/8 to 3/16 inch wobble at the outer part of the rotor. At the tire it's slightly more. 1/4 to 5/16
Take the rotor off and put the tire on and check for wobble.
To me .001 OR less is what you want. .002 might be ok depending on use.
That’s huge! 1/8” Wobble? Specification is usually a few thousandths.
I would proceed as Atikovi suggested. Strip it down to the axle. Measure that. Add the rotor. Measure that.
And use a dial indicator, don’t guess, or eyeball, it.
Ok I was able to take some measurements today. The wheel itself had about .030.
The rotor had about .019 - .020.
I was not able to get my harbor freight dial indicator setup to get a decent reading on the hub face. But I actually put a whole different hub on from another axle I had laying around. Still is acting the same.
The rotor had about .019 - .020.
I was not able to get my harbor freight dial indicator setup to get a decent reading on the hub face. But I actually put a whole different hub on from another axle I had laying around. Still is acting the same.
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I do think it's in the wheel end assembly. I have tried a new rotor as well as the complete hub with different bearings. I doubt it but could a bent axle shaft cause this?
On a full floater...I doubt it
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Did you ever verify where the wobble is coming from? I have an '06 Ram 2500 with the same 10.5" AAM rear, and I have the same problem: wobble in the left rear wheel assembly. This wheel overheated badly years ago due to a stuck caliper (which was then replaced) but the problem isn't in the rotor (which has not been replaced). I swapped the rear wheels and verified the wobble is NOT in the wheel itself. I also removed the rotor and visually verified the hub still wobbles, but I need to get a dial indicator.
I replaced the axle shaft seal years ago, but it's leaking again. I likewise suspect my axle shaft (or flange) is slightly bent. I plan to swap the axle shafts side to side and see if the problem follows the shaft.
I replaced the axle shaft seal years ago, but it's leaking again. I likewise suspect my axle shaft (or flange) is slightly bent. I plan to swap the axle shafts side to side and see if the problem follows the shaft.
Take the shaft to a machine shop with a case of beer and ask if they'll chuck it up and check runout.
I know a guy with an '07.5 CTD that had the same problem: right rear caliper ROASTED everything until the wheel fell off. In that case they had to replace the entire axle -- I'm sure the spindle was fubar
That's significant. Rotor runout shouldn't be in excess of 0.005" or so on the back of that truck.
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I got a Harbor Freight clamping dial indicator, measured runout at around 0.004" on both rear axle flanges, so I no longer suspect a bent axle shaft. At least the leaking axle seal has now been replaced. I also replaced the carrier bearing on the driveshaft, which did not solve anything. Gonna do the main driveshaft U-joints next. They didn't seem crunchy when I had the driveshaft apart to replace the carrier bearing, but I did not remove the rear joint from the diff yoke at that time either...
If the U-joints don't make a major improvement, I'll be concerned about internal failures in rear and/or front diffs, or maybe transfer case. I saw one post where a guy threw the parts cannon at a nearly identical problem until he finally traced it to a bad side bearing in his FRONT diff. That would suck...
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I replaced 2 out of the 3 U-joints in the main drive shaft (I boogered up a bearing cap on the 3rd new joint, gotta get another one). It made quite a difference. The old joints were definitely bad - there were grooves worn into the machined ends where the needle bearings ride. But there was no easy way to tell that without actually removing the old joints - they all felt fine when manipulating them by hand with the driveshaft on the ground.
The truck still shakes at certain speeds on the highway, but I think I have that narrowed down to a bad slip yoke bushing in the transfer case extension housing. See here: https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/vibrations-around-65-70mph.2258009/
Will report back once I get that replaced.
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