Anti-seize on brake pad ear slider hardware?

[Cradar]

Thought of this after the fact, when I replace the pads and rotors I used anti-seize on the ears of the pads and the metal slide pad ear guide hardware….

A few days goes by and I remove the rear brake caliper assembly to replace the caliper bracket, and it appears the anti-seize got “hard” and I can actually see this causing resistance on the metal pad ear sliders and causing a sticky pad or something

Did I mess up here by using anti-seize on the slider guides- the metal hardware kit that keeps the pads centered and able to move is what I’m referring to.

To note even the slider pins felt “stuff”

I’m tempted to redo the whole job and use the other kind of a/s I have… use anti-seize on the slider pins at the minimum. Break clean everything out and read do it ….
I might skip use an anti-seize on the metal hardware kit for the pad ears to slide on. (Is this wrong?)

Should I be redoing this, removing the anti-seize off the pad ears and just anti-seize in the pins/sliders?

Thank you all.

This is the hardware kit guides I am talking about


View attachment 108607
This is the a/s I used:
View attachment 108609
I’m thinking I even use the wrong anti-seize tbh. I have this also on hand:
View attachment 108610

I was taught to use antiseize on parts that don't constantly move in relation to each other like nuts & bolts because antiseize can be a bit abrasive. Purpose made caliper lube is a much better choice.

 

[willbur]

That was my point: the FSM says one thing, but the factory does something else.

Similar to how Honda's FSM says to use anti-seize on spark plugs, but it is clear that it was not used from the factory.

deleted

 

[SubLGT]

Honda used to recommend Molykote M-77 be used on pad ears.

MOLYKOTE® M-77 Paste

A silicone oil based anti-seize paste formulated with solid lubricants such as molybdenum disulfide.

www.dupont.com

Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds that are subjected to water and extreme temperatures; at temperatures above 230°C (446°F), the carrier volatilizes leaving virtually no residue, and the remaining dry sliding film itself takes over the lubrication up to +400°C (+662°F). Suitable for lubricating parts consisting of materials that are not resistant to mineral oils. Used successfully on metal/metal combinations with frictional and contact surfaces, brake anchor plates and the brake pistons of disc brakes.

 

[dubber09]

I stopped using brake grease on pads' ears, I use it between carrier and hardware inserts thou to prevent noise. With grease on the ears - sand, brake dust, dirt etc makes it a cement like mix preventing pads from moving freely, of cause it depends on what and where you drive. Most if not inserts I saw are stainless and don't rust maintaining good slippage for the pads.

 

[Donald]

I would replace that rubber because if it swells it will have to done again.

+1

 

[Donald]

Some people file the ears of the brake pads. It's best to buy quality brake pads that were machined and painted properly and don't need to be filed. It's likely to rust where you have filed it.

The area under the SS clips needs to be cleaned of all rust. Sand blast or file. Wire brushing will often just polish the rust.

Before I filed the pad ears because the pads were too tight I would make sure there is no rust under the SS clips.

And new SS clips each time.