Roger that...
Beginning to have my doubts
- Thread starter Dagwood
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. . . well, I do have to admit one green quirk. I really do savor the look on the face of the oil change guys (who I supervise closely for obvious, but different reasons) when they see "classic GC" emerge from the bottle, shimmering like liquid emerald. Usually, they look like they're about to drop one in their shorts. There, that ought to keep pscholte's feathers from being too ruffled.
I read this one. It is a good case report and shows well that it takes 20 to 30 minutes to get the oil up to full temperature.
What is worrisome to me is that he is driving down the highway in what could be considered the least taxing load on any car and engine oil and his sump temperature is up to 273 F. If he was to tow something or run at top speed it seems that his oil would soon catch fire. It would be good to find out all the exact details of his car and oil.
aehaas
I've gotten Havoline dino oil at least that hot (273F) in my air cooled motorcycle and the UOA's came back looking pretty darned good. Lower wear metals for the miles run than any other UOA on the board in that type engine.
Dan
Dan
THANK YOU!
Anyone who thinks having Syn oil is going to prevent your head(s) from being warped from overheating is just WRONG .
No coolant = damaged engine... No matter what oil you use.
And as far your engines going to be so much cleaner after xxx,xxx miles...
Take care, Bill
A great example of how the benefits of anything can be overstated. The synthetic oil might burn up a little later than a comparable dino, but hey, when your heads are melting down, how does this matter. . .
This, BTW, from a syn believer.
This, BTW, from a syn believer.
I think that it all boils down to doing respectable preventative maintenance on ALL relevant fluids in the cars that we use and treasure. Now if only I could convince my in-laws of that philosophy, their yearly inspections' bills would be a lot less $$$$...
Tha was my thought on those numbers. I've had oil temp gauges in several cars over the past 40 years and 10% or less is more like it unless it's being driven harder than you do under normal driving condition.
Maybe 20% on a long mountain grade.
hehehe I beg to differ.
If Milage goes down due to a lower/higher "X" in the gas or oil, then likely the wear goes up and therefore mpg. The most efficient engine will what, wear MORE ??? oh come on.
Drive with your breaks on as see if the resistance wears excessive metals off your engine, tires and milage... ie anything that causes you to save $$$ and increase the MPG has to be a better deal.
As someone who has probably rebuilt 1000 engines professionally, I have no idea how you can post that the engine oil will keep the head cool enough on an engine without coolant to as not to warp it.
Hint - the coolant surrounds the combustion chamber and the oil surrounds the coolant chamber in the head. If there is air in the coolant chamber, then its kinda hard for the oil to absorb the heat from the combustion chamber.
You have posted alot of assumptions that are factually incorrect.
I'm totally lost.
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I always doubted Dales2's temps readings on his study. He's outstanding at pains taking research ..but that 275 figure points to a bearing problem or something. It's not normal IMO. I think diesels hit those temps.
I had the hardest time breaking 170 in my 3.0 for extended highway useage at 70-80 mph ..only experiencing heat flush upon transitional events ..I may break 150 in a 10 mile drive (about 16 miles peaks temperature ..maybe I'll hit 200F when hitting the offramp). In the winter ..I doubt I'll hit 100 in the same trip. My digital temp gauge starts reading @ 70F
So ..although your research indicates this ..I haven't seen too many cases that bear it out in the field in reported temps.
...but, by all means, carry on ..mine is but one opinion/data point.
Your not a traitor. I have been a faithful user of Havoline and Citgo conventional motor oils. I have always gotten better wear results from these two oil than any synthetic. The wear rates with the synthetics always comes back with two to three times as much metal wear than the conventionals do.
Not to lurch off in another direction, but I was just wondering what effect, if any, oil choice might have in the small number of cars built with what I think GM called the "limp home" mode. IIRC, either the Northstar V-8 or the "Shortstar" V-6s had this feature for a while. The idea was that if coolant was lost, the engine would shut off fuel to half the cylinders, and that then, those cylinders would air cool the engine for a limited time. This feature does not seem to be advertised any more, though. I wonder if a syn might buy you a few additional minutes or miles in "limp home" before reaching the point where the oil turned to goo, effectively trashing the engine (but before metal parts started deforming).quote:
Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
{snip}
No coolant = damaged engine... No matter what oil you use.{snip}
That's pretty funny
No oil temp gauge, but I will tell you the oil pan gets extremely hot when off roading. My Jeep sees the hill climbs and mud slinging that you mentioned. Point being, your vehicle doesn't need to be a race car or even a sports car to stress the oil.
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Agreed ..but your type of usage (I go off road too - I'm not truly "hard core" though) can hardy be called typical. I would hardy base a whole school of thought based upon your usage ..without qualifying it as "exceptional".
Indeed, my F355B runs down the road with the watter and oil temperature less than 1% different. It is much more likely that the difference is the guage inaccuracies or sending unit inaccuracies or thermostat inaccuracies than the different systems opearting at different temperatures.
Now, when the car goes on the track, the water goes to 205dF while the oil does go into the 265dF range.
FINALLY, please (PLEASE) note that when you compare temperatures and use implied multiplication (1.23X) you have to be using either the RANKINE scale or the KELVIN scale, Fahrenheit and centegrade do not work when scaling temperatures since their zero point is not absolute zero.
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Nope. You should adopt my method. I use "Sun normal" scale. Now this will vary with the maturation of the sun ..but is appropriate for the current mileu. Hence your temperature readings will be 1.034582754 X 10 _85th SN (I didn't carry it out to the REAL number of points I needed to the right of the decimal point - but you get the idea).
It makes perfect sense, if you think about it. Everyone can easily integrate it without difficulty. Heck, they all see the sun everyday. What can be more easy to relate to??
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