I have a 1994 K1500 Suburban that has been parked on a set of Rhino ramps for about 3 years. Always use jackstands when jacking a car even if you are not under the car. I have seen jacks get spit out from under vehicles with a lot of force.
Beginner to DIY - Buy both ramps and stands?
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What's this obsession with the drain plugs? Get a Fumoto valve, if you want just to 'reach the drain plug'.
Another way to save a ton of money on oil changes and have the satisfaction from the job well done is to buy a vehicle with height adjustment mechanism. May I suggest Lexus LX570?
Another way to save a ton of money on oil changes and have the satisfaction from the job well done is to buy a vehicle with height adjustment mechanism. May I suggest Lexus LX570?
I did the same thing years ago. Bought the metal ramps for working on my cars and a jack and jackstands. I only used the ramps three times. For my Hondas it was hard to get up on the ramps with the lower front bumpers. Furthermore, I was always needing a second set of eyes to tell me when to stop the car. To me ramps have their place, but are a total pain in A**.
They sat in my garage in mint condition until I unloaded them at a yard sale. Start with the jack stands and jack for now. The rapid pump aluminum racing jacks are nice.
Regards, JC.
They sat in my garage in mint condition until I unloaded them at a yard sale. Start with the jack stands and jack for now. The rapid pump aluminum racing jacks are nice.
Regards, JC.
Thanks for the responses folks, it looks like my thought process was sound.
I'm looking at working with a Civic in the near term, and while I am a thin guy, I think I want some more room to breathe under there. On my wife's Outback, the extra height probably isn't necessary. My next car probably won't have any better clearance than the Civic either.
I have a two-car garage to work in with a solid and fairly level concrete floor, so as long as the ramps/stands work, I should be in good shape. I've read about "safety checking" stands by shaking the car before getting under, and I'll plan to do that if I am ever spending time under it. In the near term, I'll need the stands for rotating tires and brakes if I can get the confidence to try it. My biggest issue is that I really don't have anyone to check my work or help me out if I run into something abnormal. My wife's sister's husband is a skilled DIY guy, but he barely has time to do his own stuff, let alone come over and babysit me.
About a year ago there was a DIY garage that opened up near my house, and my plan was to go there to try my hand at things. The shop had lifts, tools for rental, and a mechanic to hire for advice or to hand the project over to if you went past your skill level. Unfortunately they closed before I got over there, apparently due to insurance issues. I've also looked into finding any sort of auto maintenance class, either put on by the local adult education or at the community college, but unless you are going for a degree and can attend class at 11AM on a Tuesday, I've so far found nothing. So start with fluid changes and tire rotations for now and go from there.
I'm looking at working with a Civic in the near term, and while I am a thin guy, I think I want some more room to breathe under there. On my wife's Outback, the extra height probably isn't necessary. My next car probably won't have any better clearance than the Civic either.
I have a two-car garage to work in with a solid and fairly level concrete floor, so as long as the ramps/stands work, I should be in good shape. I've read about "safety checking" stands by shaking the car before getting under, and I'll plan to do that if I am ever spending time under it. In the near term, I'll need the stands for rotating tires and brakes if I can get the confidence to try it. My biggest issue is that I really don't have anyone to check my work or help me out if I run into something abnormal. My wife's sister's husband is a skilled DIY guy, but he barely has time to do his own stuff, let alone come over and babysit me.
About a year ago there was a DIY garage that opened up near my house, and my plan was to go there to try my hand at things. The shop had lifts, tools for rental, and a mechanic to hire for advice or to hand the project over to if you went past your skill level. Unfortunately they closed before I got over there, apparently due to insurance issues. I've also looked into finding any sort of auto maintenance class, either put on by the local adult education or at the community college, but unless you are going for a degree and can attend class at 11AM on a Tuesday, I've so far found nothing. So start with fluid changes and tire rotations for now and go from there.
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I have all 3 and depending on the work, I use em. Even with ramps, before I get under the car I slide a jack stand under. I have heard of ramps collapsing. Please for safety sake, get a good pair of wheel chocks and always use them before jacking. Even with ramps, it won't hurt to chock the wheels. Good luck and welcome to the world of DIY'ers.
Originally Posted By: Y_K
What's this obsession with the drain plugs? Get a Fumoto valve, if you want just to 'reach the drain plug'.
Another way to save a ton of money on oil changes and have the satisfaction from the job well done is to buy a vehicle with height adjustment mechanism. May I suggest Lexus LX570?
I can see how you can save a lot of money on the oil changes for a Honda Civic by trading it for a Lexus 570.
What's this obsession with the drain plugs? Get a Fumoto valve, if you want just to 'reach the drain plug'.
Another way to save a ton of money on oil changes and have the satisfaction from the job well done is to buy a vehicle with height adjustment mechanism. May I suggest Lexus LX570?
I can see how you can save a lot of money on the oil changes for a Honda Civic by trading it for a Lexus 570.
Costco Jack, and Jack Stands
Costco Jack has one of the best cost/$ Ratio
Costco Jack has one of the best cost/$ Ratio
Depending on app, BOTH!
Ramps are most convenient, but if it needs worked on and you can't start it... gotta have the jack and stands.
Ramps are most convenient, but if it needs worked on and you can't start it... gotta have the jack and stands.
Originally Posted By: JC1
I did the same thing years ago. Bought the metal ramps for working on my cars and a jack and jackstands. I only used the ramps three times. For my Hondas it was hard to get up on the ramps with the lower front bumpers. Furthermore, I was always needing a second set of eyes to tell me when to stop the car. To me ramps have their place, but are a total pain in A**.
They sat in my garage in mint condition until I unloaded them at a yard sale. Start with the jack stands and jack for now. The rapid pump aluminum racing jacks are nice.
Regards, JC.
Rhino ramps have a better angle for vehicles with a front spoiler. Before I bought them I asked if I could take one outside and stick it under my Volvo 760 wagon and it looked fine. I gave my metal ramps to someone who takes anything you give him (and his house looks like it).
I did the same thing years ago. Bought the metal ramps for working on my cars and a jack and jackstands. I only used the ramps three times. For my Hondas it was hard to get up on the ramps with the lower front bumpers. Furthermore, I was always needing a second set of eyes to tell me when to stop the car. To me ramps have their place, but are a total pain in A**.
They sat in my garage in mint condition until I unloaded them at a yard sale. Start with the jack stands and jack for now. The rapid pump aluminum racing jacks are nice.
Regards, JC.
Rhino ramps have a better angle for vehicles with a front spoiler. Before I bought them I asked if I could take one outside and stick it under my Volvo 760 wagon and it looked fine. I gave my metal ramps to someone who takes anything you give him (and his house looks like it).
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
bigmike, that is possibly the most awesome ramp I have ever seen. I bet you could park a semi on it.
Thanks! I would feel completely comfortable having it under any footing on my house, let alone a vehicle. Just chock the wheels and good to go. I think I spent $40-50 for the wood and supplies (screws, glue, and lag bolts). Only down side is they are indeed heavy.
bigmike, that is possibly the most awesome ramp I have ever seen. I bet you could park a semi on it.
Thanks! I would feel completely comfortable having it under any footing on my house, let alone a vehicle. Just chock the wheels and good to go. I think I spent $40-50 for the wood and supplies (screws, glue, and lag bolts). Only down side is they are indeed heavy.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: bigmike
Spend $40 or so and build your own ramps.
Google search site:bobistheoilguy.com "wood ramps" and you'll find all the threads on it, including some directions.
You will need a good set of jack stands and a jack for those times you need to do brakes, suspension work, and tire/wheel removals. Otherwise, ramps are easier to use, IMO. It helps to have a spotter assist you. My best advice is don't work alone, if possible, when going under a vehicle and make sure you are safe at all times.
The above is a picture of one of my ramps.
Those are nice ramps, but I want the angle section to be less steep so that when using four of those, it is easier to get the car up.
I dont have equipment to make such a cut. Any ideas how to do it? optimally the entire length of each "step" would be sloped.
Spend $40 or so and build your own ramps.
Google search site:bobistheoilguy.com "wood ramps" and you'll find all the threads on it, including some directions.
You will need a good set of jack stands and a jack for those times you need to do brakes, suspension work, and tire/wheel removals. Otherwise, ramps are easier to use, IMO. It helps to have a spotter assist you. My best advice is don't work alone, if possible, when going under a vehicle and make sure you are safe at all times.
The above is a picture of one of my ramps.
Those are nice ramps, but I want the angle section to be less steep so that when using four of those, it is easier to get the car up.
I dont have equipment to make such a cut. Any ideas how to do it? optimally the entire length of each "step" would be sloped.
You might take away from the structural integrity if you slope cut the wood that great of an angle, if I'm correctly picturing it the way you are suggesting. I'd be concerned about breakage towards the beginning of each level.
I cut these at 45 degree angles, but if I did it over again, I'd be tempted to do it at 60 degrees, possibly. However, the advantage of having them at 45s is that I can count the number of levels I've driven up the ramp, so I know exactly how many to go until the top is reached. This effectively eliminates having a spotter, but I still recommend one, just in case of movement or approach angle.
To make an incline cut, a bandsaw would make quick work of it, but it would be just as good IMO, to use a plunge router and stop bits to take the bulk of it, then finish it up with a plane to fine tune the angle. Just my take on it.
I cut these at 45 degree angles, but if I did it over again, I'd be tempted to do it at 60 degrees, possibly. However, the advantage of having them at 45s is that I can count the number of levels I've driven up the ramp, so I know exactly how many to go until the top is reached. This effectively eliminates having a spotter, but I still recommend one, just in case of movement or approach angle.
To make an incline cut, a bandsaw would make quick work of it, but it would be just as good IMO, to use a plunge router and stop bits to take the bulk of it, then finish it up with a plane to fine tune the angle. Just my take on it.
Rather than start a new thread, I figured I'd revive my original one.
I'm looking for chocks to go with the ramps. I was looking at these:
http://www.chocks.com/product.php?sn=1236 107
Should they be enough for "normal" vehicles on a concrete floor? The website recommends these for a FAQ question regarding having a car jacked up. http://www.chocks.com/product.php?sn=1214 001#nogo
I wanted to go Made in USA if possible, but ultimately need something that works.
A set of US Jack stands are going to get ordered as well for super safety. I wanted the 6T stands for overkill, but they are too tall to go under the car while on ramps as a backup. I guess 3T will have to work. Theoretically more than enough for anything short of a behemoth SUV.
I'm looking for chocks to go with the ramps. I was looking at these:
http://www.chocks.com/product.php?sn=1236 107
Should they be enough for "normal" vehicles on a concrete floor? The website recommends these for a FAQ question regarding having a car jacked up. http://www.chocks.com/product.php?sn=1214 001#nogo
I wanted to go Made in USA if possible, but ultimately need something that works.
A set of US Jack stands are going to get ordered as well for super safety. I wanted the 6T stands for overkill, but they are too tall to go under the car while on ramps as a backup. I guess 3T will have to work. Theoretically more than enough for anything short of a behemoth SUV.
This was probably already answered, but I would recommend having both. The ramps work well for oil and ATF changes. I got a set of Rhino ramps from AAP for about $20 on sale. They work ok, but I wish they were a little taller. I wish I bought their largest variety. The jack stands are a must if you will be taking a wheel off. You don't want to trust your safety to a regular car jack. I got myself a set of 3-top jack stands from Harbor Freight tools for under $20 with a coupon. It works fine. While at it, you may want to get yourself a set of wheel chocks. This can be handy if you're working on rear brakes when you can't engage the parking brake.
Thanks Zako. I am getting both, I am just stuck trying to figure out what chocks are up to the task. Or if there is such a thing as a chock that is too large. I think I'll just flip a coin between the two I posted a few posts above here.
I hope there is no such thing as too small chock. I got myself these foldable chocks. Cheap and compact, once folded:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-metal-wheel-chocks-97130.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-metal-wheel-chocks-97130.html
i lost my fatherinlaw on ramps. i dont like them. if you must use one. be sure you chock the tires on the ground, with a big block, no less than 3" sq. allso check out how heavy the machine is, my dad used a 5 ton stand. course he had a 1964 5,000 lb imperial.
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