Plastic Car Ramps Question

You can get it level with only one pair of ramps if you work on a hill, front on ramps and rear a bit farther up the hill.
 
The issue with going up all four is that there isn’t enough clearance. No way am I going to cut them like the one video. I do have many RWD cars, and want to avoid the damage of the other.

I have two kwik lifts, and a quick jack… all have their pros and cons.

Four custom made wood ramps may be better to roll up lower vehicles, but they’re bulky, heavy, and Don’t store well.

I think that four lightweight aluminum jacks, one per corner, is the best way to get some height under the tires. But nothing is easy…
 
I love Rhino Ramps and they are indeed strong.
I bought 1 set of Rhino Ramps, and 2 friends gave me theirs so I had 6 ramps.
I ended up selling 1 set. I love being able to put up my vehicles on all 4 corners.
 
I use four 12,0000 LB Rhino ramps to service my transmissions, it works great. I do cheat though. I put the Jeeps in 4L. Then take my foot off the brake and up they go with ease. It's very easy to control in 4L and I don't have to step on the gas. If you feel insecure once the vehicle is up on the ramps, there's no harm in using jack stands, or some other method to safely support the vehicle in the event something goes wrong.
 
Done this a few times on light trucks. No problems. Of course, usually you have body clearance for the rear ramps with those vehicles.

On most vehicles the front end with the engine and transmission is heaviest, yet people put the front wheels up ramps all the time for oil changes. Why would you distrust a second set of ramps holding the rear?
 
I briefly had a set of the Rhinos several years ago. They scared me to death. After one use you could hear cracking noises while positioning the vehicle and visibly see stress marks (how plastic tends to appear milky when stressed) in the ribbing underneath.

This was on flat concrete in my shop, not gravel.

I know the plastics seem to be a hit here but I'm sticking with steel.

I remember there were some rumors of issues in the transition from FloTool to Blitz, or maybe it was the other way around. Regardless, I hope they fixed it for the sake of all our plastic fan bois here -- I don't want any squished BITOGers!!
 
You don't need to jack up all four wheels to change the CVT fluid. Just use the front wheels on ramps. The correct amount will come out. It's easier to do than an oil change :)
Well, depending on the year, not as easy, but close. The trans fill spot is deep down in the trans so getting a funnel to it is kinda PITA and since the engine oil cap is on top of engine, that makes it easier to fill.
 
I briefly had a set of the Rhinos several years ago. They scared me to death. After one use you could hear cracking noises while positioning the vehicle and visibly see stress marks (how plastic tends to appear milky when stressed) in the ribbing underneath.

This was on flat concrete in my shop, not gravel.

I know the plastics seem to be a hit here but I'm sticking with steel.

I remember there were some rumors of issues in the transition from FloTool to Blitz, or maybe it was the other way around. Regardless, I hope they fixed it for the sake of all our plastic fan bois here -- I don't want any squished BITOGers!!
2x10s or 2x12's screwed together ftw
 
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What are you doing to your ramps??
At some point I just placed 2 2x4s up against a curb and ramps to keep them from sliding. I tried coasting onto them and slowly driving up, nada. Now I just jack up the car on both sides.
 
Purchased this at Lowes for under $7 . No more slippage for both ramps . .

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I have two sets of Rhino ramps. If I want to use all four, I drive up on front ones and then jack up the rear and slide the other two under the rear wheels.
 
I have two sets of Rhino ramps. If I want to use all four, I drive up on front ones and then jack up the rear and slide the other two under the rear wheels.
That’s a good theory but isn’t really a good option for RWD vehicles. If someone has an improved technique I’m all ears. That may just be to back up first… but I suspect that’s easier said than done especially on an MT vehicle.
 
i experienced metal ramp failure years ago, “learning curve.” i used them on an uneven surface, hard dirt/rock, and the ground shifted and the ramp folded. So, not really the ramp’s fault, but there’s things we don’t think of.

based on ideas here, I built stepped wood ramps, and trust them much more. However, they aren’t as tall, and one has to be aware that stopping forces as one stops on the top of the ramp can be tricky if they aren’t built well and of good material. Once stopped however, solid wood is solid wood, and they aren’t going to readily crumple or fold.

driving a car up 4 ramps could be tricky. Something will always want to shift, and the unpowered wheels are at a disadvantage. I’m more inclined to use a jack and stands, and I generally push the tires up under there with me. However, this works well with a truck where 2 of the stands are under the sprung axle. With newer unibody vehicles, attempts to use 4 jackstands for me usually means 3 are weighted and one has a gap - vehilces have become that much more rigid. Cars in the 90s and before? They would twist or sag to some degree to meet the jackstands. :/
 
That’s a good theory but isn’t really a good option for RWD vehicles. If someone has an improved technique I’m all ears. That may just be to back up first… but I suspect that’s easier said than done especially on an MT vehicle.
I'm not sure why. I've never had issues doing it.
 
I'm not sure why. I've never had issues doing it.
This is why:



RWD vehicles don’t have a way to lock the front wheels. Lift a car up and it moves a bit. I stopped before meeting the guy in the video’s fate, but I could see the car shifting backwards on the ramps. So I stopped.

Jack was able to roll, I put them on a smooth sheet of wood to let them roll easier than asphalt or concrete.
 
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