2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i premium - CVT/used car purchase question

N

NissanMaxima

Joined
Oct 21, 2015
Messages
399
Location
Colorado
Hi all,
Looking to buy the above-referenced Subaru Forester from a local dealer. Car has 155k miles on it, one owner, and regular maintenance by Subaru dealers from day 1. Regular dealer maintenance and one owner is a bit of a rarity in the used car market hence my interest in the car. So many cars I have looked at have sporadic maintenance on carfax, mysterious gaps, and when they do indicate maintenance, mostly quick-lube places. Not saying all quick lube places are bad, but I do believe they probably use inferior oil to that at dealers and certainly inferior oil filters.

My concern is that the extensive carfax does not show CVT fluid change and when I called the dealer where it was serviced before looking at the car, the assistant service manager looked up the car by VIN and felt confident it was never changed and expressed concerns about purchase. However, now when I look at the maintenance schedule, Subaru calls for "Inspect every 30k miles" which I've read on forums is not even and inspection for fluid condition, but rather for leaks. The maintenance schedule schedule does indicate that for Severe service, that the CVT fluid be changed every 24,855 miles (odd number, eh?).

In contrast, front and rear differential also calls for routine inspection, but both front and rear were "flushed/changed" on carfax at both 30k and 60k miles - so good news there.

Also at both 30k and 60k maintenance, there are three notations for differential:
Front differential fluid flushed/changed
Differential fluid flushed/changed
Rear differential fluid flushed/changed

As I write this, I'm wondering if it is possible that the CVT fluid was indeed changed but incorrectly noted as "differential fluid flushed/changed"? Yet, the assistant service manager says no CVT fluid change. I guess more investigation with servicing dealer may be in order on this one and asking to see actual work order/invoice.

Coolant was never changed but maintenance schedule calls for replacement after 11 years/137.5k miles - disappointed on this one but not as much as the CVT fluid. Spark plugs replaced per schedule at 60k so good news there.

Now ideally I know we all tend to lean towards severe category maintenance schedule but if the car looks good otherwise, would folks here consider the lack of CVT fluid change a deal-breaker? If I buy it, I'd be inclined to change out the CVT fluid and filter or have it done yet debate still abounds as to whether fluid should even be changed after this long.
 
Drive the car and see how it shifts. If the transmission seems good, then change the fluid after purchase. You need a flat surface and a scan tool in order to do the job. It takes about 6 qt of fluid. Consider Cam2 CVT. Even if the fluid was changed, there is no harm in changing it again.

If the transmission seems good, you can change the fluid with no problem. And of course, if the transmission seems bad, don't buy the car at all.

Also, dealers don't use Subaru oil for their oil changes. They use random bulk oil just like private garages and quicky lubes :sneaky:

The best oil filter that's available seems to be the Ecogard S4615 (or the cheaper X4615), or equivalent. If you're lucky, you might be able to get the Full 2-OSB005 from Napa.

It's not too late to do the coolant change. Use Zerex Asian Blue and the Lisle coolant funnel.

I didn't realize the spark plugs had to be done every 60k. I thought they'd be iridium, and the non-turbo SJ isn't DI.
 
You might check the price and availability of used CVT’s. The problem with buying a car at 155,000 miles is that any major repair may be a substantial portion of or exceed the value. We once put new tires and brakes on Ford Econoline van for $1,800 and sold it less than a year later for $1,800….

 
A friend’s bought a brand new 2019 Legacy and now @85k the valve body was replaced under his extended warranty. Fluid was never changed. It is a $2k expense. Highly risky without known history.
 
Factor in the fluid replacement in your offer. Any question on the transmission walk away. Try to get an extended warranty. Factor this into the price. We have a 2017 outback 2.5 limited. Subaru automatically extended our waranty to 100000 miles. we are at 77,000 and replacing our fluid. If it moves, it wears. even if its slight. Get the wear out.

Coolent just replace. Dont flush, but of you want to do it with coolent meaning refill and replace is again after a time, do that if it makes you feel better. in my years of experience, flushing introduces 1) water dilutes the coolent 2) minerals, will leave deposits and clogg the sysyem, I have 3 vehicles one with over 193,000 miles and the cooling systems look as good as the day it rolled off the showroom floor. unless the system is already contaminated, then flush with tap, flush again with distilled water, add a mix of concentrate AND premix. The premix has distilled water in it already. Maintain your freeze levels.

You could also ask to have them replace the fluid. Will they do it? who knows.
 
"The granddaughter" of my non-profit's family purchased a '15 Forester 2.5 a few years ago with 140k (miles of course). I don't know if the CVT had ever been serviced but it was owned by an elderly couple who used the dealership, so I doubt it.

She's now at 200k and I found time to do the fluid once in there. I do worry about it because she doesn't really have the funds if it goes down.

She uses a quart of engine oil every 5k but you could see much greater oil consumption ‐‐ it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru. I change every 5k for her and use the cheapest filters available, usually basic Champions or PGs

Beyond that, watch the CV boots and don't use aftermarket boots or axles.

Tip: see if the horn works. If not, make 'em knock off ~$1k for clock spring replacement ;)
 
Thanks all. This has been very helpful. This dealership is one of these "no haggle" places and I pretty much got a flat out "no" about any drop in price. The video linked above was very helpful and I didn't realize the filter wasn't a traditional one that is readily accessible, but rather apparently a cartridge style filter. They offer no warranty whatsoever (other than third party they said I could consider) and car is sold "as is" which is not unusual here although some dealerships do offer a limited 2-3 month powertrain warranty on their used cars. They did do a limited inspection and did some significant work including coolant crossover pipe (and now that I look at repair invoice - new coolant and some "conditioner"); both rear wheel bearings; one front control arm; alignment; and obligatory oil/filter change like they all do - they used Subaru filter). I'm not crazy about their limited inspection since other dealership offer extensive 50+ inspections, but to their credit they obviously find the control arm and coolant crossover pipe problem. They said I could take it to their subaru conterpart dealership across the street for another inspection but I would go elsewhere.
 
If it was RF control arm it was likely the evaporator drain issue that rots the bushing. Senior Slacktide has posted on this

And seriously, see if the horn works just so ya know -- even if you don't care about a functioning horn ;)
 
After 150k, I think any of the midsize SUVs are likely to have transmission or engine problem. If you're expecting to put on alot of miles, just have plan for a $2k repair.
 
D60 said:
If it was RF control arm it was likely the evaporator drain issue that rots the bushing. Senior Slacktide has posted on this

And seriously, see if the horn works just so ya know -- even if you don't care about a functioning horn ;)
Click to expand...
I looked. It was the RF! Thanks for the explanation as to why that was likely replaced!
 
CarbonToast said:
After 150k, I think any of the midsize SUVs are likely to have transmission or engine problem. If you're expecting to put on alot of miles, just have plan for a $2k repair.
Click to expand...
Isn’t $2k on the low end these days for trans or engine problems? I get that yesterday’s kilobuck repair is now $2k, but for a trans r&r wouldn’t the bill be higher?

But I do agree, 150k and/or 10 years, a repair budget has to be established before going in. One may well be ahead, especially after tax, reg, ins is factored in—but a healthy tolerance for repair needs to included.
 
NissanMaxima said:
They did do a limited inspection and did some significant work including coolant crossover pipe (and now that I look at repair invoice - new coolant and some "conditioner"); both rear wheel bearings; one front control arm; alignment; and obligatory oil/filter change like they all do - they used Subaru filter).
Click to expand...
Looks like they did all of the usual, less expensive work that these cars typically need.

Valve body issues are very common but are under $3k to resolve.

Sounds like the prior owner gave up on upkeep a long time ago; these issues don't all surface at once.

It probably needs a cam carrier reseal as well, which is more expensive than the transmission valve body.
 
Also, it's winter (although you'd hardly know it in the SW corner of the state) but make sure the a/c works. These systems were fragile.
 
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