Battery Replacement 2019 VW Tiguan

[MParr]

The OEM battery of our 2019 Tiguan 5 years and 2 months. I figured it was time for a replacement. I purchased a NAPA Legend AGM part # 9848. It’s a Deka made battery 760 CCA and 70 Ah. It wasn’t too bad of a job. You will need a VW/Audi/Skoda scan tool to register the battery. I have an Ancel VD700 and it works perfectly.

 

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The OEM battery of our 2019 Tiguan 5 years and 2 months. I figured it was time for a replacement. I purchased a NAPA Legend AGM part # 9848. It’s a Deka made battery 760 CCA and 70 Ah. It wasn’t too bad of a job. You will need a VW/Audi/Skoda scan tool to register the battery. I have an Ancel VD700 and it works perfectly.

Hey I have a '21 my daughter has an '18. I'm curious b/c I'll need to change the batt's eventually. I was thinking of getting the OBD11 tool; I see guys use on Youtube, and more likely than not, will. But the question I have is, and you might not be able to answer, but what was the charge voltage to the old battery before you swapped it, for the new, and did you take reading before it was programmed to see if there was a change?

I've asked a few times on Youtube without getting a response but happened to stumble on you post!

So if the system is smart enough to determine that the old battery is old and needs a higher voltage to maintain charge?? Why wouldn't it detect that the new battery didn't require a higher voltage? I guess inputting AH if available, may make some difference, or even AGM vs. Lead acid, or what have you. But serial number and manufacturer wouldn't have anything to do, as I understand it, in how a car would charge?

I'm starting to wonder if this is like the channels that say you can't just screw in the rear calipers w/electronic e-brakes when changing pads....

Thanks in advance. I plan to check voltage before and after when it's time and I'll remember to post here.

 

[kschachn]

Hey I have a '21 my daughter has an '18. I'm curious b/c I'll need to change the batt's eventually. I was thinking of getting the OBD11 tool; I see guys use on Youtube, and more likely than not, will. But the question I have is, and you might not be able to answer, but what was the charge voltage to the old battery before you swapped it, for the new, and did you take reading before it was programmed to see if there was a change?

I've asked a few times on Youtube without getting a response but happened to stumble on you post!

So if the system is smart enough to determine that the old battery is old and needs a higher voltage to maintain charge?? Why wouldn't it detect that the new battery didn't require a higher voltage? I guess inputting AH if available, may make some difference, or even AGM vs. Lead acid, or what have you. But serial number and manufacturer wouldn't have anything to do, as I understand it, in how a car would charge?

I'm starting to wonder if this is like the channels that say you can't just screw in the rear calipers w/electronic e-brakes when changing pads....

Thanks in advance. I plan to check voltage before and after when it's time and I'll remember to post here.

I know this isn't what you're asking about, but I have both the OBDeleven and VCDS for my Tiguan. I do not like the OBDeleven product, I find it buggy and intermittent. When I try and use it to retract the parking brake it variously tells me the function is not supported or some other weird problem. VCDS works better, in my opinion - FWIW.

 

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I know this isn't what you're asking about, but I have both the OBDeleven and VCDS for my Tiguan. I do not like the OBDeleven product, I find it buggy and intermittent. When I try and use it to retract the parking brake it variously tells me the function is not supported or some other weird problem. VCDS works better, in my opinion - FWIW.

Good to know about the OBD11.

One thing I have noticed on Ford's and Honda's with their e-e-braked is that piston just screws in like other rear disc, prior to them going electric. All the IMO, BS, using software/tool/scanner, or a 12v power source at the caliper or even removing the motor to screw the piston from the back side, aren't needed. If you have the tool that you can use from the front, like in the days of old, works fine.

I found this out when a coworker applied his e-e-brake on his Ford Raptor with the pads off and the caliper hanging because he misunderstood the procedure, and thought he needed to... Took all the parts to the bench and reassembled, reinstalled, bleed them and 2 years, maybe 25000 miles later, not a hiccup. Same for several Honda civics, with the e-e-brake... His brakes are wearing fine and his e-e-brake holds so until I "see" different I'm not sure I'll be buying a scan tool for the brakes. I will be buying for other things for sure but brake service isn't going to be one...

 

[MParr]

Hey I have a '21 my daughter has an '18. I'm curious b/c I'll need to change the batt's eventually. I was thinking of getting the OBD11 tool; I see guys use on Youtube, and more likely than not, will. But the question I have is, and you might not be able to answer, but what was the charge voltage to the old battery before you swapped it, for the new, and did you take reading before it was programmed to see if there was a change?

I've asked a few times on Youtube without getting a response but happened to stumble on you post!

So if the system is smart enough to determine that the old battery is old and needs a higher voltage to maintain charge?? Why wouldn't it detect that the new battery didn't require a higher voltage? I guess inputting AH if available, may make some difference, or even AGM vs. Lead acid, or what have you. But serial number and manufacturer wouldn't have anything to do, as I understand it, in how a car would charge?

I'm starting to wonder if this is like the channels that say you can't just screw in the rear calipers w/electronic e-brakes when changing pads....

Thanks in advance. I plan to check voltage before and after when it's time and I'll remember to post here.

I didn’t check the old battery’s voltage. After five years, it was on borrowed time. I didn’t want to chance getting stranded somewhere and paying an exorbitant price for a tow and replacement.
I programmed binary AGM battery with 70Ah. Manufacturers: Other. Serial number: 0007132024. That was the purchase date. Any 10 digit number will work.
You will need a OBD II or other VAG scan too to do the battery or retract the electric parking brakes.
The Ancel VD700 worked just fine. It has lifetime free updates. You will need at least a Windows 10 CPU or laptop for the update.

 

[f355spider]

I didn’t check the old battery’s voltage. After five years, it was on borrowed time. I didn’t want to chance getting stranded somewhere and paying an exorbitant price for a tow and replacement.

Nothing wrong with your strategy. Today though, there is no reason to guess. Best investment is an electronic battery tester. I bought one a decade ago. Saved me a ton, as I test all my car batteries every 6 to 8 months and I get plenty of warning when they begin to get weak. I have four cars and never been left stranded. The two original Varta AGM batteries in my 2018 BMW are over 6 years old yet they both exceed their CCA rating by a good margin. Clearly no reason to replace them. On my Tundra the factory battery finally started to get weak after 14 years, so I replaced it. The AC Delco (Varta) AGM battery in my 540 BMW is over 5 years old, and still tests at over 1000CCA, even though its rating is 900CCA.

Even new batteries can fail early, so having a battery tester and checking periodically can give you more confidence, especially on a loved one's car, or before a long trip.

 

[small]

I didn’t check the old battery’s voltage. After five years, it was on borrowed time. I didn’t want to chance getting stranded somewhere and paying an exorbitant price for a tow and replacement.
I programmed binary AGM battery with 70Ah. Manufacturers: Other. Serial number: 0007132024. That was the purchase date. Any 10 digit number will work.
You will need a OBD II or other VAG scan too to do the battery or retract the electric parking brakes.
The Ancel VD700 worked just fine. It has lifetime free updates. You will need at least a Windows 10 CPU or laptop for the update.

Did you check the voltage after changing the batt but before you programmed the system?
Again I wonder if there is a change? If with the old batt, the system sensed it needed to be charged at 14.7v, and now the New after programming needs just 13.6v (Just throwing out extremes) if it would have continued to try charge the new batt at the higher voltage; thinking it still had the old batt installed??? That's what I'd like to see.

If the state of charge changes with programing. If we think about it, or as I'm thinking about it, the system will be smart enough now, to know that the batts getting old, and needing more charge? Batt life varies considerable based on many different factors so it can't be using just the install date batt type to do it's thing? It must somehow be able to sense the batteries condition???How I don't know but if it can then it should be able to sense there's a difference (new batt) and charge as is required?

As for the retracting the Piston for the e-e-brake I have not had to do it yet on the VW's but wonder how they would be different than the Honda's and Ford's I have worked on? Where they can just be turned in from the pad side? Seriously the videos that show taking the motor off and turning? Leave the motor on, and turn from the pad side? it's just a screw that passes through and threads into the piston?

 

[MParr]

There was no need to check the voltage on the new battery. I always put a charger on a new battery before installing.
I haven’t done the brakes on our Volkswagen. It doesn’t need them yet.
I haven’t done the brakes on my F-150. It doesn’t need brakes either.
The F-150 does need the EPB retracted. However, it can be done without a scan tool.
See: Youtube.

 

[sloinker]

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[MParr]

Did you check the voltage after changing the batt but before you programmed the system?
Again I wonder if there is a change? If with the old batt, the system sensed it needed to be charged at 14.7v, and now the New after programming needs just 13.6v (Just throwing out extremes) if it would have continued to try charge the new batt at the higher voltage; thinking it still had the old batt installed??? That's what I'd like to see.

If the state of charge changes with programing. If we think about it, or as I'm thinking about it, the system will be smart enough now, to know that the batts getting old, and needing more charge? Batt life varies considerable based on many different factors so it can't be using just the install date batt type to do it's thing? It must somehow be able to sense the batteries condition???How I don't know but if it can then it should be able to sense there's a difference (new batt) and charge as is required?

As for the retracting the Piston for the e-e-brake I have not had to do it yet on the VW's but wonder how they would be different than the Honda's and Ford's I have worked on? Where they can just be turned in from the pad side? Seriously the videos that show taking the motor off and turning? Leave the motor on, and turn from the pad side? it's just a screw that passes through and threads into the piston?

See: VW Vortex forums for your answer.