Battery Charger Testing Results

Heres a photo in the shop from a boat that was swamped then ignored.

You can see each charger and the one in save mode.

The upper right charger - bottom left LED indicates save mode is pulsing and the shutter caught it in when no amps were moving.

The vertical LED columns indicates 1,3, and 5 amps.

The optimates visualization of whats happening is far superior to CTEKS.


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Yes ,as you say, reconditioning or save mode is entered automatically, not manually, when the battery voltage is less than 12.4V or less than 50% SOC. If the battery is not connected to the vehicle, "turbo save" is engaged at up to 22V and 0.4A. If the battery is connected to a vehicle, the "pulse save" mode is engaged at 14.4V or 14.7V along with pulsed current. But OptiMate is not clear regarding the 22V mode: is it pulsed voltage or constant voltage? In the manual it only states "voltage may briefly rise as high as 22V to overcome sulphation". I can see 22V being problematic for an AGM battery.
Yikes. That’s just asking for a fluke situation to try vehicle electronics.
 
I would never trust some unknown logic to sense that it is disconnected. It’s not counting coulombs nor does it have a mA meter on the leads to validate that there is a true open circuit. Yikes.

I understand that.

One has to trust every maintainer charger you use- they can all leave the reservation. Which ones do though?

That said it's proven itself over about 15 years on hundreds of batteries that came through my shop and my own. Never fried a single one or ECU.

I've had more success with this brand than any other by far.
 
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Interesting, I found the housing much thicker and more durable looking than many others I have with rather thin and lightweight housings. And as far as accessories, mine came with the pretty standard SAE connectors with ring mounts, clamps, a cigarette lighter adapter and a 10 foot extension. I notice in their latest versions, the cig adapter and 10 foot extension are now extra cost options. But the construction of the accessories seem no different than what you get from most of the other major manufacturers, such as Battery Tender, Griots Garage, Duracell,

Let me know your top 3 please... I'm always open to suggestions

Heres a pict of the granite bay unit on, or more accurately under the battery bench.

Compared to CTEK and Optimate - the plastic was cheap, the switches were cheap, the charge cords were thin, the power cord was detachable (good and bad) it got stiff quickly when cold. GRIOTs oems from others, Ive seen a couple of brands roll through griots.

The display was ok,

When I bothered to meter it its result seemed to come up short like 14.2, or 3 when 14.4 was what was being called for.

I never saw it "go off the reservation" like I've seen nocos do.





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I went with a batteryminder 1500 2 years ago thanks to the recommendations of this group. It’s been running basically the whole time doing something. I including AGM. For the past 3 months it’s been attached to the Escalade sleeping in the garage. A pic of its current voltage. The desulfur blue light is still flashing. I’m guessing it never goes solid blue
 

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CTEKS are tough....

This got "Pharoed" like the guy that scratched Gils car.... (american graffiti reference)
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...So here is the marketing material for Granite Digital. Is this BS or legit process??
I don't know how effective this particular desulfation scheme is . If you do a search at scholar.google.com you can find 100s of technical papers on reducing sulfation of lead acid batteries.

Constant voltage charging at higher voltages and low current can be effective. Here is an interesting 2022 paper discussing that.


...In this study, different high charging voltages were used to examine the effects on the charging capability of discarded batteries. According to the experiment results, 15.2 V and below could not overcome the internal resistance of the discarded batteries. However, 15.6 V and 16.0 V were effective in recovering the charging capability and restoring the capacity of the batteries. Higher charging voltages can be used to determine the internal condition and possibility of reuse of discarded batteries without dismantling them in advance. Recovered battery cells charged at 2.67 V [16.02V for a 6 cell battery] produced a high gassing rate that depleted 4 mL of the electrolyte after 20 h of charging. Such a reaction can also result in the shedding of active materials from the cell plate, which shortens the battery’s shelf life. However, 2.6 V [15.6V for a 6 cell battery] was found to be efficient in restoring the charging capability of sulfated cells, returning the non-porous cell plate to a porous state. The porosity facilitates the permeation of the electrolyte into the inner parts of the plates and promotes robust ionization, which can result in a high discharge capacity and reliable durability...
 
I went with a batteryminder 1500 2 years ago thanks to the recommendations of this group. It’s been running basically the whole time doing something. I including AGM. For the past 3 months it’s been attached to the Escalade sleeping in the garage. A pic of its current voltage. The desulfur blue light is still flashing. I’m guessing it never goes solid blue
I have had my Battery Minder 2012 AGM for about 8 weeks and the 128CEC2 for about three weeks and have never seen the blue blinking desulfation light stop. It does say the following: "Desulfation light flashed blue anytime the unit is desulfating. The BatteryMINDer is desulfating anytime it is outputting current." So I think it is desulfating constantly.

Note the algorithm for the temperature compensation changed...not sure if it effects yours, but both of mine base line float charge at 13.2volts (70F to 80F). Then temp compensates at higher or lower temps. Currently in the upper 30s in my garage and is holding around 13.7 vts. It was around 13.5vts when it was in the upper 40s low 50s in my garage. The user manual states the base line float voltage is supposed to be 13.6vt at 70F to 80F.

I called tech support and they confirmed they changed the algorithm due to over charging concerns (a year or two ago), and loss of electrolyte from customers connected up in long term storage conditions. They never updated the owners manual or their website to this change. I have noted other brands such as Duracell, TypeS and Granite Digital run around 13.2 to 13.3vt float without temp compensation, but make various claims of "pulse" or "high frequency" charging. Not sure if that makes much if any difference.
 
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I have had my Battery Minder 2012 AGM for about 8 weeks and the 128CEC2 for about three weeks and have never seen the blue blinking desulfation light stop. It does say the following: "Desulfation light flashed blue anytime the unit is desulfating. The BatteryMINDer is desulfating anytime it is outputting current." So I think it is desulfating constantly.

Note the algorithm for the temperature compensation changed...not sure if it effects yours, but both of mine base line float charge at 13.2volts (70F to 80F). Then temp compensates at higher or lower temps. Currently in the upper 30s in my garage and is holding around 13.7 vts. It was around 13.5vts when it was in the upper 40s low 50s in my garage. The user manual states the base line float voltage is supposed to be 13.6vt at 70F to 80F.

I called tech support and they confirmed they changed the algorithm due to over charging concerns (a year or two ago), and loss of electrolyte from customers connected up in long term storage conditions. They never updated the owners manual or their website to this change. I have noted other brands such as Duracell, TypeS and Granite Digital run around 13.2 to 13.3vt float without temp compensation, but make various claims of "pulse" or "high frequency" charging. Not sure if that makes much if any difference.
Thanks for the info. Currently it’s low 40s in my garage so it’s where it should be according to what you wrote. One thing I did notice about the 1510. It takes longer to top off my daily 2019 Cherokee with a AGM than it does to top off the 2006 Escalade slowly draining in storage.
 
Having pulled the noco off the bench and put it away, I’ve run the Ctek now a few times and kept an eye on the digital volt meter I have wired inline. Mine seems to do exactly what the earlier testing shows, and the result is notable. I left the lawnmower on the Ctek 2 weeks ago. It has a powersports AGM in it. it held it up at 14.9 volts finishing charge for a LONG time, maybe 12 hours, after going through the other stages. It hasn’t started so well since it was new, and certainly didn’t crank that well with the noco.

on the flip side, I’m in agreement with the amazon and YouTube reviews, the Ctek gets hot, hotter than I like to see solid state equipment run. owning both, I’ll say the noco seems a higher quality build, and fwiw, probably an excellent maintainer. The smaller amperage units are probably the sweet spot on those.
 
I have been using CTEKs for over 25 years. I have one Optimate 7 Select, bought out of curiosity. Mine had to go back to Canada for a warranty repair, and it still switches modes without any reason, but it is a sample population size of one - bad luck. The 7002 that Uncle Dave attached above has a similar story here. My wife took off with one. After a mile she heard 'something was not as usual'. It was still hanging on its cable, she ran over it a few times (Landcruiser). it still works. I also have a couple of small ones, extreme Arctic or something like that. Orange ones. They have nicer silicon-like cables.
Optimate seems having some smart algo. This is what I'd definitely use in lower amp float maintenance application. Especially with AGM.
 
Oooh, charger thread!

Great data JHZR2!

Quite surprising how different the charging algorithms are.

A maintenance/float charge of 12.8v? Very conservative... I had one affair with a Noco charger a few years ago and it was way too agressive. Maybe all those calls to Noco support made them change their minds 😁

This relatively inexpensive charger/maintainer is a favourite of mine, due to price and consistency. Holds a nice steady 13.6 volts on every battery I've tested it on.


My two CTEK 4.3's are getting less and less charging time. But they are still my most trusted next to the little "Motopower".
^^^ I set a friend up with one of those. Before installing it in her riding mower I tested it for a week in various cases. I was quite pleased with it!
Anybody else using the motopower charger/maintainer? I’ve been wanting a charger that will float at 13.6v for my AGM batteries.

My battery tenders only float at ~13.2v, which is a little low in my opinion. However, I do have an 8.5 Ah SLA battery in a portable air compressor that is 9 years old and still going strong that has sat on a Battery Tender Jr it’s whole life. I leave that battery connected 24/7 any time I’m not using that compressor.

My truck (with two AGM batteries) sits on the larger 5 amp Battery Tender when I’m not driving it. It seems to do ok at keeping the batteries charged but they don’t always have that hot off the charger fast cranking that AGM batteries can give. I feel like a little higher float voltage might give them a little more cranking power. I can always tell a difference in cranking power for a little while after a long road trip, my truck generally holds the batteries at 13.7-13.9v after it initially ramps up to 14.6v or so for the first minute or so of runtime after startup. My truck has cheap (compared to Northdstar or Odyssey) Everstart Platinum AGM batteries, Thoughts?

When I spoke to an odyssey engineer a while back he was adamant that if the long term float voltage applied from a float or maintenance charger was not 13.6v, at 77f, then it should not be floated long term. Lots of so called 'maintenance' charger will float at 13.2, even on the AGM setting. Floating at too low a voltage for a long time is not a good thing, but especially when there is a significant parasitic load on the DC system.
Floating too high a voltage is overcharging and causes positive plate degradation and flooded batteries will use a lot more water.

On my own system:
If I float my Northstar at 13.6v exactly in the 70f temp range, then crank voltage to 14.8, amps quickly taper to 0.5 or less, usually much less, indicating this float voltage kept the battery truly fully charged.

If I float it at 13.5v in the same temp range, for a day or 2, then crank voltage upto 14.8v, amps will go up above 5 and over 25 minutes taper to the 0.5 range and take another half hour to taper to 0.2. This indicates the 0.1v float voltage difference, allowed the battery to discharge slightly, also proving just how important the float voltage be right for the specific battery.

Note than some AGMs say 13.2 to 13.4 float, others are 13.6 and I think I even saw one was 13.8v all at 77f/25c degrees.
So even if a smart charger has a specific setting for AGM, if the float voltage it holds is too low, the battery can very slowly discharge, even if this float voltage is well above its natural full charge open circuit resting voltage, which on a Northstar is 13.06 in my experience, My Dekas AGMs are about 12.84v.
 
I use a CTEK 7002. I bought it after watching some YT videos where Optima used it to recover some dead spiral cells. That and the Kent Bergsma videos. I also bought the Solar BA-9 tester. Both have worked well for me for multiple years.

I used to have a "Silver Beauty" one that dad got way back that used for a long time. It had a cooling fan in it and a boost function to be used for jump starting. That thing was a beast. I think I gave it to scrap metal dude. Hated to see it go but it was heavy, in the way, cables needed replacing as insulation was cracking off. I know I probably killed a couple batteries overcharging them with it.

I feel a lot more comfortable with the CTEK and all my newer things. Not as fast but set up overnight and all is well.
 
I use a CTEK 7002. I bought it after watching some YT videos where Optima used it to recover some dead spiral cells. That and the Kent Bergsma videos. I also bought the Solar BA-9 tester. Both have worked well for me for multiple years.

I used to have a "Silver Beauty" one that dad got way back that used for a long time. It had a cooling fan in it and a boost function to be used for jump starting. That thing was a beast. I think I gave it to scrap metal dude. Hated to see it go but it was heavy, in the way, cables needed replacing as insulation was cracking off. I know I probably killed a couple batteries overcharging them with it.

I feel a lot more comfortable with the CTEK and all my newer things. Not as fast but set up overnight and all is well.
There's a YouTuber called Magic Smoke, he's an EE who tested the CTEK and Noco Genuis5 extensively with their charging/repair capabilities, and also opened them up to inspect the quality of the builds. He opened up 3 CTEK'S that he was sent that failed, and the Noco Genuis5, and found the CTEK'S had a much lower build quality than the Noco.

I watched the videos, and it was very easy to see the quality difference internally. The CTEK'S also all died from heat related issues. And on the charging and repair side they both performed the same.

I'm not saying the CTEK'S are bad... but I chose to pick up a Noco because I want it to be around for years to come, and it's going to get used a lot. I just didn't have the faith a CTEK would stand the test of time ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯
 
At the time I had a couple Optima spiral cell batteries. The CTEK listed that as a separate option. I figured if Optima was using it in the video's to recover dead ones it was good with me.

The NOCO genius 5 gets good reviews from what I saw and currently on Amazon you could get 2 NOCO 5's and lunch for the price of one CTEK 7002 and have a spare for future or gift.
 
I watched the videos, and it was very easy to see the quality difference internally. The CTEK'S also all died from heat related issues. And on the charging and repair side they both performed the same.
Thank You for the Magic Smoke Youtuber.
I watched only two of his CTEK-related videos, and in both of them, the real issue was water ingress. The failed "Updated MXS 5.0" had corrosion inside and stains from water ingress on the inside. I suspect the internal arcing and diode failure were related to the moisture that got onto the PCB.
The CTEK claims an IP65 rating and one of his videos shows that the ability to sustain "low-pressure water projected by a nozzle from any direction" is questionable. On the other hand, he left the chargers in a puddle of water during his improvised IP65 test, which, I believe, is likely to violate the definition of an IP65 test (no immersion).
Anyway, be aware that the CTEK (and many other products) is not really as waterproof/weatherproof as much as one might expect.
 
Thank You for the Magic Smoke Youtuber.
I watched only two of his CTEK-related videos, and in both of them, the real issue was water ingress. The failed "Updated MXS 5.0" had corrosion inside and stains from water ingress on the inside. I suspect the internal arcing and diode failure were related to the moisture that got onto the PCB.
The CTEK claims an IP65 rating and one of his videos shows that the ability to sustain "low-pressure water projected by a nozzle from any direction" is questionable. On the other hand, he left the chargers in a puddle of water during his improvised IP65 test, which, I believe, is likely to violate the definition of an IP65 test (no immersion).
Anyway, be aware that the CTEK (and many other products) is not really as waterproof/weatherproof as much as one might expect.
The 3 teardown and repair videos of the CTEK'S that I watched came to him broken from viewers, he diagnosed them then repaired them.

I didn't see him hosing any working CTEK'S down with water, but he does make long, in depth videos, and I didn't watch all of them. He did leave the Noco Genuis5 outside in the rain overnight... and even though it's IP65 rated it did get water in it, but it didn't affect the functionality any.

When he pulled it apart you could see all the silicone shielding keeping the water away from the important parts. It was comforting to see the extra effort Noco went to with the heat management, quality of parts/assembly, and water protection efforts 👍

You're right though about IP65 being overrated 😉
 
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