$3.50 here$1.80?!?!?
Jealous.
We're at $2.90
$3.50 here$1.80?!?!?
Jealous.
We're at $2.90
Well I only shower and change clothes once per week... (kidding of course, I can't stand being dirty)I'm surprised they last a year with dryer use.. I use about that much just on my grill![]()
not sure how much savings with heating oil having 50% more btu than propane.I'd really like to switch my house from oil to a propane fired Rinnai (or the like) combi boiler and also do away with the electric water heater. Oil is $3.19 right now and seems to be going up. Can't quite justify $10K+ right now as the old Burnham is still working.
The connection fee should be taken out of the calculations unless you are going to get rid of it. May I suggest you boil it down to dollars per million BTU for each energy source. No fixed costs included, just costs for consumption that are dependant on each incremental unit.not sure how much savings with heating oil having 50% more btu than propane.
Last time I figured the math with propane around $3 per gallon and it was 9x more expensive than my natural gas.
my natural gas consumption cost is around $4.50 per mcf (which is also 1million btu)
propane is around 92k btu per gallon. so. looking at at around $30 vs 4.50
Granted I have a hefty natural gas connection fee.
That is what I did. I just mention the connection fee.. because in reality the connection fee is 65%+ of my yearly bill my heating use is around 6-7 mcf on the coldest months... but similar to when people add on EV and dont count the connection fee (because it makes sense) I'm not counting it here.The connection fee should be taken out of the calculations unless you are going to get rid of it. May I suggest you boil it down to dollars per million BTU for each energy source. No fixed costs included, just costs for consumption that are dependant on each incremental unit.![]()
What do you pay per kWhr for electricity?That is what I did. I just mention the connection fee.. because in reality the connection fee is 65%+ of my yearly bill my heating use is around 6-7 mcf on the coldest months... but similar to when people add on EV and dont count the connection fee (because it makes sense) I'm not counting it here.
although for true apples to apples comparison with propane or oil I should count it.
From memory: (disclaimer)
my connection fee for 12 months runs $564 and my total consumption for 12 months is around half that.
Which makes it really hard to compare regionally to someone who might pay more per MCF or therm, yet have 1/4 the connection fee.
Edit: ok my memory was off.. I used 31 mcf last year with a total charge including tax and delivery of aprox $150 while my fixed connection charge was $563
Makes me want to run out and buy a Gas water heater, convert my grill to natural gas, gas dryer, and get a gas range.![]()
19 cents.What do you pay per kWhr for electricity?
19 cents.
Generation charge went up 65% this year.
Generation was approximately 33% of the bill previously
So if you use 1000kwh it's $93?Wow!
Same state, lower left corner…………9.29 cents here.
PM sentSo if you use 1000kwh it's $93?
For me 1100 something was 228$ but it was odd 35 day Bill. First month after price increase.
Look at the nameplates of all your appliances and add them up. Whatever your total is, times that by 1.2 for a buffer. Should be close.I sometimes wish my heat pump was propane backup vs electric booster coils. Especially when it comes to a generator.
My 6 ton indoor air handler is on a 60 amp breaker and outdoor compressor on a 30 amp. That's about a 20 KW just for the one heat pump. My second heat pump is 4 ton. And other stuff in the house like well pump. I would need a generator close to my 200 amp service. Or 45 KW.
I wonder what the total house load is if it was cold and both heat pumps using booster coils along with some clothes drying and cooking on stove/oven?
While I could do that, the electric booster coils on the heat pump dwarfs everything else. In a power failure we can not wash or dry clothes and cook with microwave. But need heat and water.Look at the nameplates of all your appliances and add them up. Whatever your total is, times that by 1.2 for a buffer. Should be close.
Might get away with something smaller if you’re good with nothing needing to run the drier during an outage. Cooking on the stove top won’t be an issue. It would be running a few burners and the oven that gets you.
Breakers size doesn’t necessarily mean load size. 8000 watts / 240v is your load.While I could do that, the electric booster coils on the heat pump dwarfs everything else. In a power failure we can not wash or dry clothes and cook with microwave. But need heat and water.
They would not have put a 60 amp breaker for indoor air handler if a 50 amp would have done it. So the load when the booster coil is on is between 50 and 60 amp. And compressor is 30 amp. So just the first floor heat is a pretty big generator.
I have a 10 KW portable generator that I can use to power fireplace fans, some lights and microwave and maybe well pump. But not the heat pumps. Unless I can easily disable electric booster coil.
Just not sure the jump to a whole house generator in the 20 to 40 KW range is worth it. We just do not loose power very often. Less than once a year.
I will need to crawl in crawlspace and look at the air handler. That's never something I look forward to.Breakers size doesn’t necessarily mean load size. 8000 watts / 240v is your load.
*Cant remember how big your heating coils were. I thought 8k.