Average Repair Bill at a shop

[doublebase]

That's almost exactly what my mech quoted me for my Lucerne.

$100 to resurface, $200 for ceramic pads and 2 hours labor, $430

Two hours for labor, can one mech do a brake job in 2 hours?

I’m not bashing techs that need to get paid, but a decent tech can do that brake job in about 20 minutes. Well, 20 minutes if you’re replacing pads and rotors, cutting them would add another 20 minutes.

When I was working in the trade we used to try to see who could finish a set of front brakes the quickest. I believe we were able to finish a brake job on a Ford Taurus in 15 minutes. Start to finish. Remove pads and rotors. Install new pads and rotors. Clean and lubricate pins and slides. Set the pads. Wheels on and torqued. Car lowered to the ground.

And although I’m not trying to slam techs for what they do...you’re mechanic is absolutely screwing you with that price. Wow. That is something that should prevent the guy from looking at himself in the mirror.

 

[doublebase]

Most of the dealers around here resurface. A lot of it has to do with the climate and whether the platform supports resurfacing. Many manufacturers do. VW and BMW recently started approving resurface. Ultimately it is to a technician’s advantage to sell additional labor.

In my opinion, they really shouldn’t be doing this (resurfacing rotors). Manufacturers have been doing it for years because when the rotors warp under warranty, that’s their solution. Cut them. Then when they come back in six months (because they’re pulsating again). Cut them again. Then the next time they come back they’re out of warranty. Replace them. Rinse repeat.

But I agree, it is an advantage to a tech to do this because it’s all labor. Cut the rotors adds labor and not parts. But it also can lead to something else...loosing customers.

When you remove metal from a rotor it’s only a matter of time before they warp again And I’ve done this many times in the past...cut them, get rid of my vibration...drive it for 4-6 months...vibration comes back. Cut them again, drive it another 6 months. Then I just end up replacing them.

I just bought a car last summer. Lady hands me the receipt and says, I just got my brakes done, see? And I read it - replace pads, resurface rotors. So I’ve now got a car with new pads and old rotors. The thing shimmied on the way home while braking on the highway (ever so slightly). A year later (20,000 miles later), it shimmies so bad my fillings are going to fall out. But the pads look great! Now I’m going to have to cut these things or live with it until I decide to replace everything.

 

[Doc8404]

I thought rotors don’t warp?

 

[Andrew1972]

$680 for pads and resurface rotors for front and rear is not a bad price. Indy may save you 25% at most otherwise they are probably using lower quality parts.

Dealer quoted $1360 to do rotors/pads front and back on our 2018 Tiguan. I would have been beyond happy with $600-$700. $1360 leads me to get another quote at my Indy.

I am guessing Indy would resurface rotors as his labor rate is only $70/hr.

 

[Duffyjr]

My mech doesn't charge hourly rates to resurface, it's $25 a rotor. It was a quick quote and I'm sure he ball parked it for me, usually when he does this it's less than what he says. Car only has 86k on it and from what I can see there is plenty of rotor left for anther turn plus they are not pulsating and there is no big groves that I can see.

 

[2EHA]

In my opinion, they really shouldn’t be doing this (resurfacing rotors). Manufacturers have been doing it for years because when the rotors warp under warranty, that’s their solution. Cut them. Then when they come back in six months (because they’re pulsating again). Cut them again. Then the next time they come back they’re out of warranty. Replace them. Rinse repeat.

But I agree, it is an advantage to a tech to do this because it’s all labor. Cut the rotors adds labor and not parts. But it also can lead to something else...loosing customers.

When you remove metal from a rotor it’s only a matter of time before they warp again And I’ve done this many times in the past...cut them, get rid of my vibration...drive it for 4-6 months...vibration comes back. Cut them again, drive it another 6 months. Then I just end up replacing them.

I just bought a car last summer. Lady hands me the receipt and says, I just got my brakes done, see? And I read it - replace pads, resurface rotors. So I’ve now got a car with new pads and old rotors. The thing shimmied on the way home while braking on the highway (ever so slightly). A year later (20,000 miles later), it shimmies so bad my fillings are going to fall out. But the pads look great! Now I’m going to have to cut these things or live with it until I decide to replace everything.

in the age of cheap whitebox rotors there really isn’t any point. unless you have factory big brakes or two pieces that cost 100+ each and need to milk more life out of them

 

[FordMan59]

I'm lucky I can do lots of things myself but when I do need someone to do things for me I've found a good mechanic that works reasonable. I could do this myself but since I have chronic back pain I asked him recently what he'd charge to put a timing belt on my '97 Escort wagon if I furnished the belt. His reply $100. To me it's worth a $100 to prevent days of increased back pain. Back around Christmas 2020 the fuel pump went out on my mom's Grand Marquis. I wasn't going to lay on the wet cold ground in December to change it. Again I furnished the fuel pump. His bill was $60 for installation.

 

[Ihatetochangeoil]

I work at BMW. $1000 does not get you very much. 5 digit estimates are pretty common.

I drive 4 digit cars, do it myself any maintenance and repairs and from what I've seen discussed in this thread, I've probably done/saved myself 6 figures in maintenance/repairs over the last 15-20 years. My vehicles run best when I'm the only one under the hood. I maintain an Excel spreadsheet and track date/mileage on what I do, and I will do this as long as I am physically able. My spreadsheet is currently 5 pages long. Cars are basically appliances that get you from point A to point B. Mine have plenty of creature comforts, heated seats, A/C, cruise, etc. I have no need to show society "who I am" or "what I can afford." My six figures closing in on seven are in the bank and my 401K. The only thing my vehicles go to a "shop" for is required state "safety" inspections every two years, or something I will never own the tools to do such as a front end alignment or tires mounted. OTOH, honestly, the value of what I own in tools would definitely buy a really good used car.

 

[mightymousetech]

I thought rotors don’t warp?

You thought incorrectly. They absolutely do, usually caused by unevenly torqued wheel bolts/nuts.

 

[Doc8404]

Guess it depends what you read including on here. Many say it is due to uneven amount of friction material.

personally, I’ve studied it enough to think rotors do get warped. However, that doesn’t occur as often as people think.

anytime people have a shudder “oh it’s warped.”
Nope. Not always.

Solved: The Mystery of Warped Brake Rotors

www.mechanic.com.au

Warped brake rotors: There's no such thing

Debunking the myth of warped brake rotors. Learn why brake rotors don't actually warp and what really causes brake pedal pulsation.

ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com

 

[mightymousetech]

Guess it depends what you read including on here. Many say it is due to uneven amount of friction material.

personally, I’ve studied it enough to think rotors do get warped. However, that doesn’t occur as often as people think.

anytime people have a shudder “oh it’s warped.”
Nope. Not always.

Solved: The Mystery of Warped Brake Rotors

www.mechanic.com.au

Warped brake rotors: There's no such thing

Debunking the myth of warped brake rotors. Learn why brake rotors don't actually warp and what really causes brake pedal pulsation.

ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com

It’s on the internet, it MUST be true!

Have been slinging wrenches for 30 years. At least 95% of brake vibrations are warped rotors. It is obvious when you use the on car brake lathe, to machine out the runout. Often takes 2-3 passes to get them straight again.

 

[repairman54]

I never use shops but on the rare occasion. Don't have a lift and getting older now so when I needed new rear A/C lines in my Tahoe I put it into the dealer last year. I did those lines in my old '99 Yukon and it was a PITA doing it on the ground the way they snake in and around the frame.
Dealer charged me $1400 to do it. Both one piece rear lines were not cheap as they are OEM only so I didn't think it was too bad a price.
Decades of being a on site appliance tech. so I have a good feel on the price of using someone else's tools.

 

[Doc8404]

It’s on the internet, it MUST be true!

Have been slinging wrenches for 30 years. At least 95% of brake vibrations are warped rotors. It is obvious when you use the on car brake lathe, to machine out the runout. Often takes 2-3 passes to get them straight again.

ok. So because you turn a rotor that means they are warped?
could be.
but you discount that it could be uneven material like the articles say?
Oh wait. You probably change oil every 3k.

 

[mightymousetech]

ok. So because you turn a rotor that means they are warped?
could be.
but you discount that it could be uneven material like the articles say?
Oh wait. You probably change oil every 3k.

You can see the excessive runout (warp) when you are machining.

 

[Jetronic]

That's almost exactly what my mech quoted me for my Lucerne.

$100 to resurface, $200 for ceramic pads and 2 hours labor, $430

Two hours for labor, can one mech do a brake job in 2 hours?

4 corners easy

 

[Dave9]

$1,000 to $1,500? I believe it. My kid has a Navigator with 125K miles that has been giving him starting problems. He lives too far away for me to drive to him to do the repair. It had a factory alternator and a battery that was over 3 years old, so I just told the service adviser to replace both the alternator and the battery. The alternator replacement is a fairly simple job. This was at a Ford dealership and the repair was right at $800.
For those of you who know Ford replacement parts, Ford gives as few accessories as possible with your replacement parts. That means, you must take off the old alternator pulley and install it on the replacement alternator, a less than 5-minute job for a seasoned tech with an impact gun. That alternator pulley swap was $50 alone.

I would find somewhere else to take it next time. The alternator & battery is probably less than an hour job (less than 1/2 hr for anyone who's familar with it), and a new Motorcraft is probably under $300 on Rock Auto, or less for a reman.

A new pulley is $9 on Rock Auto but for at least one model year they picture a pulley on the alternator so I bet it comes with one.

More Information for MOTORCRAFT GL1002

www.rockauto.com

Battery, Motorcraft is about 50% more expensive for same thing you can get elsewhere... probably a group 65, can be had for roughly $100 at Costco, Walmart, etc. unless it's an AGM then add ~$60

$300 alternator + $120 labor + $160 battery = $580

-OR- Last time I replaced these on a vehicle, $115 alternator + $0 labor + $100 battery = $220. Reman alternator, which some will say is a gamble, but this one has a lifetime warranty from Advance Auto a mile away, hasn't failed in almost 6 yrs so far. The Motorcraft I'd expect to last longer but only has 24 mos. warranty.

 

[Dave9]

$680 for pads and resurface rotors for front and rear is not a bad price. Indy may save you 25% at most otherwise they are probably using lower quality parts.

It's a terrible price. You can get OE equivalent or better, rotors on all 4 corners for $180, pads $90, so we're now at $270 parts leaving $410 labor for less than an hour of work.

Not lower quality, more like Akebono Ceramic pads, major brand coated rotors... otherwise, you can get lower quality yet still major brand for a Tiguan, pads for $50, rotors for $140 for all 4 corners. Shipping included.

My last front brake job cost me $18. Got two Bendix Premium rotors as Amazon Warehouse items one at a time when they were available, $9 each, pads were Autozone Gold Ceramic, free lifetime warranty replacement. Unlike a shop I don't count consumables like a few grams of silicone paste, squirt of brake-clean, or a file... add 30 cents, rounds down to $18 still.

 

[Dave9]

In my opinion, they really shouldn’t be doing this (resurfacing rotors). Manufacturers have been doing it for years because when the rotors warp under warranty, that’s their solution. Cut them. Then when they come back in six months (because they’re pulsating again). Cut them again. Then the next time they come back they’re out of warranty. Replace them. Rinse repeat.

That has not been my experience. I've had rotors resurfaced when the pads were changed, because they had grooves worn in, but the rotor has a min thickness rating and in more recent decades rotors had less material, there often isn't enough material remaining to resurface them. Granted, higher quality rotors may be thicker too. Once you (or a shop) puts some cheap generic on, it may already be unfit for more than one tour of duty.

When I did it, I had no problem with them lasting till new pads were needed again, as long as pins and slide rails were clean and lubed so that didn't cause problems, except in the early GM FWD era (late 80's to early '90's) where they were still putting small 14" wheels on full sized sedans and thus small rotors too. The result was faux-warpage (if not real warpage) no matter which option you chose, unless you drove like a grandma using the brakes minimally which isn't possible in areas with other drivers and hills.

For better or worse, the internet made it far easier to get good pricing on major brand rotors, and labor to cut them went up, so it makes less sense now than it did 20+ years ago, but it sure seems more environmentally friendly to reuse a rotor rather than scrapping or recycling.

 

[Accent Abuser]

My largest repair bill on my Accent was front struts & sway bar links, close to $1k including the alignment. The struts weren't broken or leaking, just too bouncy. Anyone who has driven on Massachusetts roads will know why struts and shocks are as much a maintenance item as tires and brakes. Lifetime warranty so if they ever need replacement again it's just $219 for labor.

 

[doublebase]

You can see the excessive runout (warp) when you are machining.

You sure can see it (excessive lateral run out). Warped rotor.

And does it really matter whether it’s parallelism or run out? It leads to the same thing...a pulsation and a rotor that goes out of spec on a dial indicator.