VW class action lawsuit on MK7/MQB water pumps finally paid out!

[BLND1]

Love my 2021 atlas…. Sort of.

just took it in today for low coolant.

my Brakes have also been grinding at low speed since shortly after purchase. It’s so loud and consistent it’s embarrassing. 2 hours in stop and go traffic was a horrific experience. I’ve been told repeatedly that it’s “normal.”

the car is great otherwise but I likely won’t be buying another VW. Back to Japanese appliances for me.

 

[TiGeo]

Love my 2021 atlas…. Sort of.

just took it in today for low coolant.

my Brakes have also been grinding at low speed since shortly after purchase. It’s so loud and consistent it’s embarrassing. 2 hours in stop and go traffic was a horrific experience. I’ve been told repeatedly that it’s “normal.”

the car is great otherwise but I likely won’t be buying another VW. Back to Japanese appliances for me.

Have you topped up the coolant and monitored before spending the time to go to the dealer?

On the brakes, just re-bed them....60 to 10 6x getting them good/hot and then drive for 5 min to cool them.

Easier than spending the effort at a dealer if it sorts it.

 

[andrew_j]

Love my 2021 atlas…. Sort of.

just took it in today for low coolant.

my Brakes have also been grinding at low speed since shortly after purchase. It’s so loud and consistent it’s embarrassing. 2 hours in stop and go traffic was a horrific experience. I’ve been told repeatedly that it’s “normal.”

the car is great otherwise but I likely won’t be buying another VW. Back to Japanese appliances for me.

Bummer on coolant. Had to top my 2018 Tiguan once at 125k miles as light came on to check. It was not much at all down and never changed coolant in car .

I do smell coolant a tad near hood after driving now at 150k but the level remains full so won’t bother till I need to.

 

[dgunay]

Love my 2021 atlas…. Sort of.

just took it in today for low coolant.

my Brakes have also been grinding at low speed since shortly after purchase. It’s so loud and consistent it’s embarrassing. 2 hours in stop and go traffic was a horrific experience. I’ve been told repeatedly that it’s “normal.”

the car is great otherwise but I likely won’t be buying another VW. Back to Japanese appliances for me.

Brakes are definitely not normal, but it has nothing to do with VW, or Atlas, or German/Japanese. It can happen to all.

 

[TiGeo]

Also, on the smelling coolant issue...what most folks are smelling is the overflow/vented cap on the coolant reservoir.

 

[BLND1]

Have you topped up the coolant and monitored before spending the time to go to the dealer?

On the brakes, just re-bed them....60 to 10 6x getting them good/hot and then drive for 5 min to cool them.

Easier than spending the effort at a dealer if it sorts it.

checked the reservoir before my trip to SLc. It was empty when I got to St. George. Filled it up there to top and it was back at low when I got back to California. Dealer says seepage with a coupling, will replace. I’ll buy a bottle of coolant just to be safe.

Brakes have been a 30k mile fiasco. Dealer replaced them at 10k miles and nothing has helped. Slow speed braking sounds like someone’s jabbing a screwdriver into the rotor or dragging branches down the side of the car. Nauseating and I can’t tell you how many people have rolled down windows and told me I need to get my brakes checked. It’s emabarrassing. They once again just told me “everything’s normal and noise is normal.”

I’ll probably try to go to a ceramic pad or something but it’s just ridiculous that I have to address it myself. Corporate was no help either.

 

[TiGeo]

checked the reservoir before my trip to SLc. It was empty when I got to St. George. Filled it up there to top and it was back at low when I got back to California. Dealer says seepage with a coupling, will replace. I’ll buy a bottle of coolant just to be safe.

Brakes have been a 30k mile fiasco. Dealer replaced them at 10k miles and nothing has helped. Slow speed braking sounds like someone’s jabbing a screwdriver into the rotor or dragging branches down the side of the car. Nauseating and I can’t tell you how many people have rolled down windows and told me I need to get my brakes checked. It’s emabarrassing. They once again just told me “everything’s normal and noise is normal.”

I’ll probably try to go to a ceramic pad or something but it’s just ridiculous that I have to address it myself. Corporate was no help either.

Sorry to hear and yeah, coolant issue sounds like you are getting it sorted. From a time/money perspective, a set of ceramic Centric Posi-Quiet pads is $60 and a dead easy DIY that takes about an hour at most with a jack and a 13mm open-ended wrench, just replace them and be done with it. I have no idea when your pads are loud.

 

[BLND1]

Sorry to hear and yeah, coolant issue sounds like you are getting it sorted. From a time/money perspective, a set of ceramic Centric Posi-Quiet pads is $60 and a dead easy DIY that takes about an hour at most with a jack and a 13mm open-ended wrench, just replace them and be done with it. I have no idea when your pads are loud.

ill try those. Thanks! It’s killing my wife because she loves it otherwise.

 

[dgunay]

I'm not sure if you are trolling or if you are dumber than a rock, because everything you said is wrong.

Let me explain one last time and will try to simplify it to a 6-year old:

1) Honda is the 4th bestseller in North America, VW is 6th bestseller. VW sells TWICE as many vehicles globally. 2022 numbers are 8.2 million vehicles for VW, second bestseller right after Toyota (9.5 million), the number is 4.1 million vehicles for Honda. Get your facts straight before wasting people's time here.

2) EA888 water pumps do not fail, they just slowly leak. You can just top up and continue driving. If it happens early, people go to dealer and change it for free (warranty). If you are out-of-warranty, you can choose an aftermarket water pump with metal housing for a permanent fix. Do not talk if you don't know what it is.

3) Fuel dilution is harmful to the engine, even if you change it early. Gasoline is a solvent and kills the oil. It is a poorly engineered motor, period. 1.5T engine is a failure from the beginning and Honda put a bandaid to an engineering/mechanical problem with a software update globally.

I even talked to Honda reps/engineers, I was told the only reason why 1.5T exists is that K20/K24 engines were unable to keep up with the emissions, otherwise they would have kept and upgraded the K-Series as the mainstream choice. 1.5T is here because Honda had no choice but to get rid of a perfectly capable and versatile drivetrain and had to replace it with a sub-par platform exists because of a necessity, thanks to your government.

The worst part is that they put that poor engine to a "performance-oriented" SI, which is shredded by everyone in its segment LOL. Poor guy trying to keep up with base Mazda 3s with that HDMI port-like exhaust tips

You can replace a water pump, but you cannot fix a poorly engineered motor, simple as that.

4) Atlas is not a direct competition with the CR-V. Are you really that ignorant? The more you talk, the more you sound you have no idea about cars. Let me teach you: Atlas is a 3-row SUV that competes with the Pilot, CR-V competes with Tiguan. I think the new CR-V is better than the Tiguan, I drove both and that's my conclusion. I'm not a fanboy like you.

5) Atlas' interior (updated 2024 MY) is not comparable with the CR-V and/or Pilot, it is so much better, and costs less than top trim CR-V, let alone the Pilot.

I bet you didn't even sit in any of the models, but talking here. I've been driving every mainstream/premium/luxury vehicle available in North America for the last 6 years, not a 10-minute test drive on a dealer lot. I've been driving each vehicle for 1 to 4 weeks depending on availability. So just shut up and don't tell me which car or interior is better.

6) Speaking of Honda Pilot: The interior sucks, they just put that tiny 7" screen with bunch of cheap plastics and monochromatic interior and called it a day. The worst part is, this is a brand new platform and the interior looks old from the day 1. Yes, I drove that too, also will drive another one with different trim again in February. Oh, did I mention I do car reviews?

7) Do not talk if you have no knowledge or if you haven't driven the vehicles you listed. It makes you look dumber.

@VTECOverRated why did you block me? Did I upset you too much? Oh you poor Honda fanboy.

I guess that's how fanboys react when they face the facts.

Next time if you act & respond like an adult and come up with actual data and facts, you won't get shredded by strangers online.

 

[TiGeo]

ill try those. Thanks! It’s killing my wife because she loves it otherwise.

This is the kind of thing where you step back and ask yourself "Fair or not, my time is worth more than a set of pads that fix this.". VWs have for a long time had noisy brakes as a result of the pad compound they use. However, dusty as they are, I never had noise issues on any of my many VWs except for early morning where the rotors got a touch of dust/moisture...sorted after the first stop typically. Good luck! I've changed the pads on our Atlas for a lower dust one (Centric ones I listed) and it's v. simple inexpensive fix. Sounds like there is something caught in there?

 

[BLND1]

This is the kind of thing where you step back and ask yourself "Fair or not, my time is worth more than a set of pads that fix this.". VWs have for a long time had noisy brakes as a result of the pad compound they use. However, dusty as they are, I never had noise issues on any of my many VWs except for early morning where the rotors got a touch of dust/moisture...sorted after the first stop typically. Good luck! I've changed the pads on our Atlas for a lower dust one (Centric ones I listed) and it's v. simple inexpensive fix. Sounds like there is something caught in there?

It’s been to the dealer multiple times and they clean/inspect it and say everything is normal. They even replaced pads and rotors at 12k. Nothing helped. Noise always comes back.

In all my years of driving I’ve never heard consistent grinding like this. It’s embarrassing. I’ll pick up some new pads and slap the in. Any special brake grease I should be using on VW’s?

 

[TiGeo]

It’s been to the dealer multiple times and they clean/inspect it and say everything is normal. They even replaced pads and rotors at 12k. Nothing helped. Noise always comes back.

In all my years of driving I’ve never heard consistent grinding like this. It’s embarrassing. I’ll pick up some new pads and slap the in. Any special brake grease I should be using on VW’s?

Not really, I have an old tube of Motorcraft silicone brake grease I use on the "wing" tabs of the pads that slide into the caliper carrier. May as well lube the slider pins as well and remember, there are a upper/lower specific pin in the carrier, one has a plastic bushing I believe so be mindful of that. What condition are your rotors in? Any video of the noise? The posi-quiets are the lowest dust pad I've ever used. This is my wife's vehicle and at 6 years/55K, she has had multiple iterations of the pulsing brakes on 3 different sets of rotors as well as the OE and these Centric pads. It's her driving, not trash talking her, but she is a v. good/cautious driver and all around-town primarily in that vheicle, slow roll stops increase heat then you sit on them at the light and they leave deposits....folks always say "warped rotors" but it's just pad deposits...I just go out and beat on them...6 HARD dlows from 60-80 down to 10 one after the other, get them fading/smoking, then cool down...smooth as silk for another year until it happens again...been like this on our Atlas, Explorer, Odyssey...just heavy vehicles in-town/stop/go and her gentle early braking is my best theory....I late-brake harder and never have this issue but of course that scares her AHHAHAAHA On the track, you have less heat/braking issues late threshold braking and then off then dragging...early/dragging brakes increase heat in a big way..

 

[wemay]

Love my 2021 atlas…. Sort of.

just took it in today for low coolant.

my Brakes have also been grinding at low speed since shortly after purchase. It’s so loud and consistent it’s embarrassing. 2 hours in stop and go traffic was a horrific experience. I’ve been told repeatedly that it’s “normal.”

the car is great otherwise but I likely won’t be buying another VW. Back to Japanese appliances for me.

My 2019 Passat did the same thing regarding the coolant. I had a dealership appointment to change the water pump but traded it in prior to getting it done. It also had an issue where it applied the front collision mitigation brakes when nothing was in front of me (did it twice). The Techs could never find out why.
I really liked the car otherwise... comfortable, cavernous rear seats and trunk, solid feel, decent driving dynamics.

 

[dgunay]

It’s been to the dealer multiple times and they clean/inspect it and say everything is normal. They even replaced pads and rotors at 12k. Nothing helped. Noise always comes back.

In all my years of driving I’ve never heard consistent grinding like this. It’s embarrassing. I’ll pick up some new pads and slap the in. Any special brake grease I should be using on VW’s?

VW's wear and tear items are usually not great, that's where they really cheap out.

My GLI's tires were the worst I've ever tried. Had to sell it and buy proper summer tires in less than 1000 miles.

Wiper blades also suck, just replaced it in less than 2 years.

OEM brake pads are okay, but had to replace them as they overheated on track. They are supposedly the same brakes with the Golf R, but it wasn't enough for my driving style on track. Put EBC blue pads and now it chewed the stock rotors. I guess I'm going to have to upgrade them to OEM 4-piston base Macan brakes.

Thankfully they are not expensive to replace except the tires, but there are tons of aftermarket options and you can always retrofit stuff from Audi and Porsche.

 

[TiGeo]

VW's wear and tear items are usually not great, that's where they really cheap out.

My GLI's tires were the worst I've ever tried. Had to sell it and buy proper summer tires in less than 1000 miles.

Wiper blades also suck, just replaced it in less than 2 years.

OEM brake pads are okay, but had to replace them as they overheated on track. They are supposedly the same brakes with the Golf R, but it wasn't enough for my driving style on track. Put EBC blue pads and now it chewed the stock rotors. I guess I'm going to have to upgrade them to OEM 4-piston base Macan brakes.

Thankfully they are not expensive to replace except the tires, but there are tons of aftermarket options and you can always retrofit stuff from Audi and Porsche.

Interesting as to me, my expectation for an economy car w/r to the OE bits like wipers etc. isn't nearly what yours is...do you keep wipers on more than a year? I don't. I replace every year. Tires...what tires did your come with? Most OE tires aren't great and aren't meant to last a long mileage. I guess I'm kind of like "duh" to taking a car on teh track with street compound/low heat management brake pads. The factory 340 brakes your GLI comes with...I track with guys absolutely sending it on those same brakes (R, GTI w/PP) with a set of good full-bore track compound pads and high temp fluid without issue. The Macans aren't great, they are a glorified OE brake that has many downsides so be aware...have you checked out the Macan mega-thread over on the golfmk7 forum (brake sub forum)? Even EBC Blues only have a MOT of 900 degrees....move on to something that is upwards of 1200+...G-lock R10, Ferodo DS1.11, for EBC, try the RPX compound...it's SIIICKKKK!

 

[BLND1]

Not really, I have an old tube of Motorcraft silicone brake grease I use on the "wing" tabs of the pads that slide into the caliper carrier. May as well lube the slider pins as well and remember, there are an upper/lower specific pin in the carrier, one has a plastic bushing I believe so be mindful of that. What condition are your rotors in? Any video of the noise? The posi-quiets are the lowest dust pad I've ever used. This is my wife's vehicle and at 6 years/55K, she has had multiple iterations of the pulsing brakes on 3 different sets of rotors as well as the OE and these Centric pads. It's her driving, not trash talking her, but she is a v. good/cautious driver and all around-town primarily in that vheicle, slow roll stops increase heat then you sit on them at the light and they leave deposits....folks always say "warped rotors" but it's just pad deposits...I just go out and beat on them...6 HARD dlows from 60-80 down to 10 one after the other, get them fading/smoking, then cool down...smooth as silk for another year until it happens again...been like this on our Atlas, Explorer, Odyssey...just heavy vehicles in-town/stop/go and her gentle early braking is my best theory....I late-brake harder and never have this issue but of course that scares her AHHAHAAHA On the track, you have less heat/braking issues late threshold braking and then off then dragging...early/dragging brakes increase heat in a big way..

No videos. It sounds almost exactly like dragging branches down the side of your car.

I’ll just use the grease I have.

 

[BLND1]

My 2019 Passat did the same thing regarding the coolant. I had a dealership appointment to change the water pump but traded it in prior to getting it done. It also had an issue where it applied the front collision mitigation brakes when nothing was in front of me (did it twice). The Techs could never find out why.
I really liked the car otherwise... comfortable, cavernous rear seats and trunk, solid feel, decent driving dynamics.

Yeah, hopefully they can take care of it.

The atlas is most definitely not a “driver dynamics” vehicle. But my god is it comfy, quiet (except at slow speeds…brakes), and plenty quick enough.

 

[dgunay]

Interesting as to me, my expectation for an economy car w/r to the OE bits like wipers etc. isn't nearly what yours is...do you keep wipers on more than a year? I don't. I replace every year. Tires...what tires did your come with? Most OE tires aren't great and aren't meant to last a long mileage. I guess I'm kind of like "duh" to taking a car on teh track with street compound/low heat management brake pads. The factory 340 brakes your GLI comes with...I track with guys absolutely sending it on those same brakes (R, GTI w/PP) with a set of good full-bore track compound pads and high temp fluid without issue. The Macans aren't great, they are a glorified OE brake that has many downsides so be aware...have you checked out the Macan mega-thread over on the golfmk7 forum (brake sub forum)? Even EBC Blues only have a MOT of 900 degrees....move on to something that is upwards of 1200+...G-lock R10, Ferodo DS1.11, for EBC, try the RPX compound...it's SIIICKKKK!

It came with Hankook Kinergy GT, the same tire my neighbor has on her Buick SUV. They were garbage, I immediately sold them and bought Potenza Sports.

My OEM brake pads weren't horrible, but they were cracked after the third season. I kind of expected more from the Golf R brakes, GLI has less hp and similar weight. I swapped EBC blues as a quick replacement and it is a great set for a daily driver. Initial bite is good, it is better on track, but not perfect. I have the RS3 brake ducts to make things a little better, but it didn't help a lot. I think I need to change everything and start from scratch for the next track season.

Macans are fixed 4 piston calipers vs 1 piston. The only downside is the fitment especially with the OEM rims as far as I'm aware. They are not the best, but I can get them for $800 CAD brand new, a buddy of mine works at the dealer.

My aim was not to make it an all-out track car, but to make it a track capable daily driver just to have fun on track. That's why I've been going conservatively.

 

[BLND1]

Not really, I have an old tube of Motorcraft silicone brake grease I use on the "wing" tabs of the pads that slide into the caliper carrier. May as well lube the slider pins as well and remember, there are a upper/lower specific pin in the carrier, one has a plastic bushing I believe so be mindful of that. What condition are your rotors in? Any video of the noise? The posi-quiets are the lowest dust pad I've ever used. This is my wife's vehicle and at 6 years/55K, she has had multiple iterations of the pulsing brakes on 3 different sets of rotors as well as the OE and these Centric pads. It's her driving, not trash talking her, but she is a v. good/cautious driver and all around-town primarily in that vheicle, slow roll stops increase heat then you sit on them at the light and they leave deposits....folks always say "warped rotors" but it's just pad deposits...I just go out and beat on them...6 HARD dlows from 60-80 down to 10 one after the other, get them fading/smoking, then cool down...smooth as silk for another year until it happens again...been like this on our Atlas, Explorer, Odyssey...just heavy vehicles in-town/stop/go and her gentle early braking is my best theory....I late-brake harder and never have this issue but of course that scares her AHHAHAAHA On the track, you have less heat/braking issues late threshold braking and then off then dragging...early/dragging brakes increase heat in a big way..

Finally got around to replacing pads.

Went to Bosch Quiet cast ceramics and changed the rotors while I was at it just to be safe. Went with centric high carbon premium rotors.

It was squealing the brakes as I pulled into my garage for the change and has been dead silent since the change.

Hopefully this keeps up. THANK YOU.

 

[Chris142]

Is dodging such repair responsibilities common at VW?

Looks like a good reason not to buy one. first the emissions thing now this?