Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters

[Gary Allan]

Well, young stuff ...

Wait 'til you're in my age bracket. It's almost a crime to look

Ehh ..way too common nowadays anyway.

One evolution that I'm thankful for is the opening up of the hydraulic fitting market to the public. It's not all that good for the hydraulic shop type establishment ..but they still have their market. I've found all the parts to be of very good quality in the coated steel variety ..where I'd normally have to opt for stainless steel. Jeg's and Summit with their Aeroquip and clones are way out there in price. Home Depot's bushing assortment is extensive ..but of very poor quality. Their brass assortment is limited and expensive. McMaster does well ..a little high ..but darn fast service to the small order. NT is tough to beat on some prices ..but limited in some offerings. Discount Hydraulic Hose has very good coverage ..but is a $20 minimum order (not hard to do) ..but the baseline shipping and handling is a bit steep (starts at about $9 turning a $20 order into a $30 order).

Still not too bad considering where we were just a few years ago with very limited access to these things.

This is one thing that I've explored quite a bit since coming to BITOG. A very enlightening education. In many cases it's been a trial and error thing. I ordered the wrong fittings for one application ..and it just so happened to fit my (future) transmission filter installation. Now I just got to figure out how to use a 5/8 #10 JIC/AN fitting for trans line.

It may end up on an engine for a short time

 

[burntkat]

ok-- after much thinkin'.. here we go...

I realized that running a 1/4NPT to -4JIC would be restricting the flow through my cooling lines. So I had to rethink a bit, and have improved my setup. Here is what I have come up with thus far.

First off, know that it's a 700R4 transmission. Stock lines are 5/16" hardline, and the ports are on the passenger side, one atop the other. Bottom is pressure, top is return.

I am going to run the NT hydrailic filter as a FFF and a modified MG pneumatic filter as BPF. Of course the FFF will be in series, the BPF will be in parallel. FFF will be after the cooling tank in the radiator and the aux cooler, on the return line just prior to the transmission.

So then. 1/4NPT(M)male to -6JIC(F)female. Using -6 because they are cheap and readily available at NT locally. I don't see a problem with going with larger cooling lines- if anyone does, let me know now.

Having the -6JIC(F) swivel on the transmission allows me to put a -6JIC tee on the transmission (triple male) ports to do this:

orient the Tees so that they face front/rear on the truck. Plumb the forward-facing sides of the tees as follows:
Pressure side to radiator trans cooler. From the output of it into the aux cooler. From output of it to the input of the FFF. Output of FFF to front-facing Return transmission port. This puts our coolers in series with the transmission as stock, with a FFF just before the transmission to catch anything that might come out of the coolers. (of course I will be cleaning the coolers out before reassembly, but best safe than sorry).

The rear-facing ports of the -6JIC tees will be used as follows:
Pressure side to -6JIC into the BPF. The -6JIC output from the BPF will be modified by way of being drilled and tapped in the back for an appropriately-sized grubscrew to be screwed in place. Through said screw will be drilled a 1/16" hole (at most, and possibly smaller) to serve as a restriction to keep flow through the BPF down to a trickle so the oil can be scrubbed. This is done on the outlet port as Gary said, to act as a catch for any stray pieces of paper that might try to get through otherwise. I may even run a inline mesh filter on the return line. The outlet of the BPF will go back to the -6JIC tee on the Return port of the transmission. This results in the BPF being plumbed in parallel to the transmission cooler, and with the restrictor in the BPF, it will be kept to a slow trickle and thus not effect the flow to the cooler by any appreciable level.

Points and ruminations:

I know the -6 hose is way too big for the BPF, and -4 would work just fine. I am running the -6 due to trying to keep the plumbing on the trans as simple as possible. If I can find a -4 to -6 JIC adapter @ NT I will run it at the BPF since I already have -4JIC angles mounted on it and would like to keep the plumbing from hanging too far off the BPF in order that I can swing it on it's side when service time comes so I can crack it, let it drain, and then service it somewhat cleanly.

I will most likely be replacing all the hardline with 3/8" line that I will bend myself. So I'll be increasing the internal surface area for the cooler circuit by approx 20%. I don't see this as being a problem, there might be a drop in line pressure but I would honestly expect that I'll just get more cooler flow. Ideas?

Again, want to thank all for input. I've learned a ton here...

 

[burntkat]

oh-- and I know most folks would just popp a hole in the tranny pan and use that as return. I'm not going to do that-- for one thing, I just spent $50 on a HD deep trans pan, for another I don't want there to be ANY mods that can't be removed with a wrench and made to dissapear should I have to claim warranty on this transmission. I just spent $1000 on the trans (well, it's been sitting in my garage for a month while I get this together), with a 3 year warranty, I don't want to give them ANY way to weasel out of a warranty claim should it occur.

Some will wonder why I have a $1000 paperweight in my garage taking up room, and why I am putting aux filtration in if I don't want to mod the trans in a way that could cause warranty troubles. They're related- I have put 3 prior trannies in this truck because I always said I'd ut an aux filter in the truck to clean things up.. "one day soon". I am NOT putting the trans back in this time until I have my filtration done. I know me, I'll never do it if I don't do it now.

Also have a tranny temp gauge that I will be installing. I'll be putting the thermo for it in one of the test ports
and keeping an eye on things as well.

 

[burntkat]

ok-- one last rumination-

it occurs to me that the 5/16" line is an OD. So the ID is likely 1/4".. which makes things very easy as I already have all the fittings save for the Tees...

unfortunately, truck is 20 miles away at the mo, I am at work. Will have to get the mic out and check....

 

[Trucku]

You can parallel the coolers. The fluid will slow through two coolers (wider path) and offer better cooling. Also if one for some reason or another were to clog from debris coming loose inside of it the other cooler would still flow, so you don't kill the tranny on highway.
Its late if I read this wrong sorry, the meds are keeping me painless and maybe mindless.

 

[burntkat]

don't want to parallel the coolers-- too much plumbing. I've been running just the aux cooler (liquid/air) for a long while without problems, I am just plumbing the in-tank one back inseries with it (and upstream) for an experiment. If the temps get out of line, I'll take it back out. But it will help the fluid come up to temp when I go North owing to warm engine coolant. Of course I know it much flow counter to the engine coolant flow.

questions I was asking, simplified (not being a smartalec- just know I get wordy)

-ok to upgrade lines from 5/16 OD to -6?
-is my plumbing scheme with respect to the BPF teeing off the cooler line feeds (bear in mind it is restricted inside the BPF to a slow trickle, 1/16" opening a la what Ralph Woods does) acceptable? IE: I know it's parallel, but will having it right there at the trans cause any problems? I am not a hydro expert.

Thanks again, no worries about mindlessness-- I'm quite tired and lopy myself. Hope whatever's causing you pain is only temporary, and abating.

 

[Gary Allan]

You can upgrade to any size you want ..just as long as you can handle the adapters on either end to mate it where you need. Your sizes are for ID. A 5/16 line is over 1/2" in OD. Going larger will just lower your intermediate velocity in the plumbing. There should be no difference in mean velocity.

Many trans shops use one replacement cooler line. It fits both 3/8 and 5/16 barbs. It's 11/32 Scroll down to the bottom on this page

My main reason for the restrictor on the outlet isn't for stray paper debris containment. It's to stop a stray piece of debris from clogging the restrictor. That's why Amsoil puts it on the outlet. They use a .030 restrictor ..you can barely see it with middle age eyes. They want clean oil passing through it.

..but, no harm in preparing for a stray piece of tp taking a hike. You can also plumb the BSF return above the FFF to accomplish that function ..but it looks like you've got a plan that's "comprehensive".

Some have reported, eventually, that the fluid gets so clean that no debris is found in the tp filter during routine servicing. Just a pink tp roll.

Yes, you too can have that OOOOw what a feeling ...Zoom-Zoom-Zoom and whatever else some drivers experience.

 

[burntkat]

well I converted some measurements and it looks like I'll go with a 1/32" hole. Teeny-- I'll have to rob from my scale modeling stuff...

I like the idea of plumbing the output of the BPF into the FFF input. That actually helps, as I am having to order a few Tees and such from Summit. This way, it's one less.

Just realized I am gonna have to cross the exhaust to run these hoses. So now I have to figure that one out-- I want there to be absolutely NO chance of damage

 

[burntkat]

(we REALLY need an edit feature, folks!)

where would you put a temp sensor, given that I am not going to drill a hole in the pan.

 

[Trucku]

Do you think TP filtering is too much, if there is such a thing for a transmission?.The Transmission is not experiencing combustion and going through the same environment as engine oil. Do you think a Beta 2U =2 (nominal), Beta 5u =75(absolute) filter will be as effective as a TP bypass filter? I was thinking if there is a point where in TP filtration of transmission fluid no longer yields debris then what size of debris is common in the transmission?

I wanted to go Bypass with the transmission, but would not take the extra step if my hydraulic filter will do the same job.

 

[Trucku]

hit reply on your own post then in the top it will say within the address about the middle "newreply.php" change the "newreply" to "editpost" and hit enter. It will change your reply to your own post to editing your own post.

theoildrop.server101.com/forums/newreply.php ?Cat=0&Board=UBB36&Number=904388&page=0&what=showthreaded


theoildrop.server101.com/forums/editpost.php ?Cat=0&Board=UBB36&Number=904388&page=0&what=showthreaded

 

[Trucku]

Drill and tap your mount, if its big enough. I will be doing that to my Donaldson mount. tradervar.com has Sunpro electronic gauges for decent price with free shipping.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:

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(we REALLY need an edit feature, folks!)

where would you put a temp sensor, given that I am not going to drill a hole in the pan.

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Lots of debate on this one. I tend to like the pan since it's going to reflect the overall "temp insult reserve" quotient. I don't know about all of them ..but mine leaves the converter for its trip to the cooler. The return lubricates the rotating parts. The pan is essentially the only normalized point. Either line (in or out) will tend to give you peaks or valleys.

If asked, I guess I would say that the return would give you the most assurance that you're keeping the temp under control.

 

[burntkat]

was talking with a friend today and he suggested I use one of the pressure test ports on the trans if I absolutely must NOT drill the pan.

If this weren't a chrome pan, I'd MIG a bung in in a heartbeat. But this was the best price I could find on a pan, and it's chromed. That complicates all #@$%! out of welding to it, so I'll not bother. I'll just use the pressure test port and call it good.

Again, many many thanks for all the help, folks.

 

[Buffman]

^^ depending the on the transmission the pressure test port will be a good place for a temp sender.

 

[johnd]

Quote:

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Do you think TP filtering is too much, if there is such a thing for a transmission?

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Probably not. Ralph has commented on here before that AT fluid is generally quite dirty and does need high levels of filtration for long transmission life. The absence of combustion products (carbon) just makes it look cleaner.

 

[Trucku]

Quote:

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Quote:

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Do you think TP filtering is too much, if there is such a thing for a transmission?

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Probably not. Ralph has commented on here before that AT fluid is generally quite dirty and does need high levels of filtration for long transmission life. The absence of combustion products (carbon) just makes it look cleaner.

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Thanks for answering my question.

 

[Jim 5]

Quote:

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If this weren't a chrome pan, I'd MIG a bung in in a heartbeat. But this was the best price I could find on a pan, and it's chromed. That complicates all #@$%! out of welding to it, so I'll not bother.

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You could use a coarse flap-wheel to remove the chrome in an area just large enough to mig weld a bung in, then just wire wheel the weld clean and apply several coats of clearcoat to the bung/weld. This would overcome the chrome issue without changing the look of your chrome pan significantly.

 

[burntkat]

only problems with that:

I'm not going to weld.
I'm not going to make any obvious mods to the transmission in event that there's a warranty claim in the next few years.
I'm going to run the BPF return into the FFF input by way of a JIC tee. This way if there should happen by some odd chance to be a problem with paper getting out of the BPF (bearing in mind it's going to have a 1/32" hole on the output, but whatever

) it will be caught by the FFF. The FFF will be the last thing the trans fluid will see after the cooler and right before going back into the transmission, so pressure delta should be plenty.

 

[burntkat]

honestly if I were to pop a hole in the pan for return, I'd just kneed up some JB weld into a snake and put a fillet of it around the outside of the pan, thus bypassing any problems with chrome, etc, entirely.