Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters

[Jim 5]

I've never worked with JB weld before, although I hear many good things about it.

Also, I'm always looking for an excuse to use the mig-welder I sprung for a few years ago.

 

[i_r_teh_noobz]

I can get a bunch of "Nyloweb PVC Hose" from work. Would this material be suitable for use with ATF?

 

[Gary Allan]

PVC, speaking generically, has too low a melting temp. CPVC has like a 560lb burst strength in schedule 80 (IIRC) in 6" pipe ..but that's @ 70F ..the burst strength quickly decays with temp. The stuff is molten @ 250 in the extrusion processes that I used to do in tubing. You want tubing that's rated SAE J1019 or SAE J1532

 

[burntkat]

n00bz, you can get -6 Pushlock hose from www.discounthydraulichose.com for $0.87 a foot. This is a STEAL, and at that cheap a price nothing else is worth considering. Make sure to draw out your filtration system and spend a couple days looking over it before you order, otherwise I can guarantee you're going to be spending too much and not having everything you need on hand.

Gary-- I decided to ditch the tee off of the pressure line from the trans going to the BPF, with the return from BPF going into the pressure side of the FFF, and do this instead:

pressure side of trans directly to coolers. Cooler discharge to FFF, which will have tees on the inlet and outlet side. BPF parallel'd into those tees, with a 1/32" restriction on the outlet of the BPF .....


hmmm.. in typing this out, I see I'm robbing myself of the ability to put the outlet of the BPF into the inlet of the FFF to catch anything that might happen to make it through the BPF (paper flotsam and such). Probably much ado about nothing in concerns there, but I prefer to have the extra insurance of EVERYTHING going through the FFF right before it goes into the tranny. So I'll stick with the Tee at the trans pressure side and the FFF inlet....

 

[burntkat]

als-- to anyone considering this, I suggest keeping an eye on the ID of all fittings. NPT ports in particular can get you in trouble with restrictions in the line if you don't keep an eye out for it. One reason why I upsized my lines from the 5/16" to 3/8" ID. Another was to keep things easy- I needed to build new lines for the truck anyway, and it's easier to stay with one fitting/hose size everywhere. Also easier to plumb around if you should have a problem away from your garage.

My BPF in particular, has drastically oversized line- running 3/8" to a filter that will flow something like a pint or two a minute. But it's easier and cheaper to run -4JIC at the filter with adapters from -4F to -6M with -6 line than to do it otherwise. Plus, should I have an issue with my BPF, I can disconnect a hose and loop the discharge into the inlet that would normally feed the BPF and carry on with the mission.

Granted, there will be a skidplate below my filtration kit before I take the truck offroad again, but you can't be too careful when builing an expedition vehicle.

 

[bcossa2001]

Ummmm--I'm adding this to my favorites but replying to the last post is the only way I know how to do it......

 

[handyman]

I went ahead and bought the Northern unit. I’m a little worry about the temperature rating on the hydraulic filters? Does anyone know what they are?

 

[Tempest]

No, but the one I have has made it through the 115+F summer here with no problems. Having said that, I plan to get the Donaldson syn filter soon.

 

[handyman]

Tempest
Thanks
That’s good to know. It gets pretty hot here in Dallas but nothing like that.

Do you have that set up as a full flow or as a bypass filter?

 

[Tempest]

Quote:

---

Do you have that set up as a full flow or as a bypass filter?

---

Mine is full flow straight out of the trans (when the fluid is hottest). This filter is rated to 25GMP I believe, which is about 5X what a trans actually runs, and has very good filtration at that level. I just don't understand the need for a bypass on a trans with these types of filters available.

 

[handyman]

The Northern unit only cost fifteen dollars including tax. That a lot of bang for your buck.
I would like to have a bypass filter there but that would cost about one hundred fifty dollars.

 

[Gary Allan]

Mount, Assembly, BF90
BP80A

Oil Filters & By-Pass

$14.50

EABP90
Absolute Efficiency By-Pass: (1) 6-inch filter

$35.95

Add about another $10-$20 worth of hose barbs and trans cooler hose

 

[handyman]

Gary

Once again you are right. I was not thinking of the Amsoil kit. That is a lot of bang for your buck too.

I was thinking about the TP filters. People will argue over what the micron ratings but
I think the finer the better.

It’s what you’re willing to pay to get to that level of filtration.

 

[Shup1]

With all the variations listed above one's head starts to spin... But my question is when you take into the dealer for a flush / service is there anything bad about using the external styles listed above? Meaning will all of that dirt be flushed back in or can I just take an extra filter and toss it to the boys?

 

[ConfederateTyrant]

If you know how to handle it yourself, replace the filter after the flush. If you replace it before the flush, then you're going to start picking up debris that was in the fluid already.

Take an extra filter and watch them to make sure they actually change it.

 

[Gary Allan]

Quote:

---

With all the variations listed above one's head starts to spin... But my question is when you take into the dealer for a flush / service is there anything bad about using the external styles listed above? Meaning will all of that dirt be flushed back in or can I just take an extra filter and toss it to the boys?

---

As far as the existing or new filter is concerned (it doesn't "care"

) ..it's just 5 minutes more use.

That is, in a fluid exchange, you're just running 10-15 quarts through the trans. I don't know of too many machines that keep recirculating the fluid roundy round style ..in fact, I don't know of any (not that I've looked for them either). So, typically, your filter just sees one final pass for the fluid volume. This would be a good time to change it out probably.

 

[kd5byb]

Wow. This is a great thread. Next time I'm under my Tundra I'm looking for the auto tranny cooler return lines to see where I can stick in an aux filter. I've got lots of room.

Plus, this adds capacity to the system.

Now if AMSOIL would just come out with an ATF that will work in Toyota trannys that require Toyota "WS" fluid...

thanks much all!
ben

 

[Gary Allan]

I just scored two of these massive hydraulic filters off of ebay ..at way salvage price. They're HUGE!! Looks like NPT for the ports. The filter heads have a 25psi bypass built in.

I hope I can find room somewhere to use them for a trans (why did I buy these again

)


By geeaea


By geeaea

Here's what it looks like in a Wix

Part Number: 51860
UPC Number: 765809518605
Principal Application: Bandit, Case Tractors, Cross Hydraulics, Koehring, M-F, Timber Jack, Other (10 Micron)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Hydraulic Filter
Service: Hydraulic
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 9.107
Outer Diameter Top: 5.007
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 1 1/2-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: 2/20=14/25
Burst Pressure-PSI: 360
Max Flow Rate: 28-30 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 10

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
15415 5.140 4.750 0.195
15661 8 5.030 4.440 0.190
15658 8 5.055 4.480 0.359

 

[Trucku]

GaryOnekinobi

You are the filter master!

 

[pbm]

Gary: I have an 01' Accord with the trouble prone A/T. I read most of the (10 pages of) posts in the Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters thread but I still can't figure out if I should install one. Flow rates, fluid starvation etc... are confusing. If you had this vehicle would you install one and if so which one. I like the idea of the 13 dollar unit from Northern using a Pureone oil filter (because of low cost and availability of filters). What do you think of this set-up? Also, can you direct me to it on Northerns web-site as I can't seem to find it. Thanks Pat.