Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters

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If you have tranny issues a external filter will not help. You could have loose valve body, bands need adjustment, solenoid pack,etc.
The filter will just compliment an already well running tranny.

If you rather not buy everything separately (mount, filter, hoses, clamps and barbed fittings), you can buy a Perma-Cool setup all ready to go.
One version comes with a temp guage for the tranny.

I still have yet to install my Donaldson filter on my tranny, but am running a PureOne with my Perma-Cool setup.

I have used Baldwin B2, Wix 51515 and I have had the best (smoothest) shifts with the Pure One and the Infamous Fram.

NORTHERN TOOL
PERMA-COOL
 
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The Northern filter head will not accept motor oil filters due to the threads being different. Just get some of the Northern replacement filter units when you order the head. These really only need to be changed every few years as tranies don't put out a lot of junk.

As TruckU said, get the Permacool if you want to use motor oil filters.
 
Wait a minute.. I believe that there's one passenger car filter that fits the standard hydraulic thread. A Jaguar (pronounced JagUwah
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Part Number: 51228
UPC Number: 765809512283
Principal Application: Various Jaguar Models (97-05), Ford Thunderbird (02-03), Lincoln LS (00-02)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.685
Outer Diameter Top: 3.150
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 1-12
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 16
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Max Flow Rate: 12-15

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.800 2.441 0.240

Here's a hydraulic filter (most are 1-12 thread)

Part Number: 51551
UPC Number: 765809515512
Principal Application: Various Hydraulic Applications (10 Micron)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Hydraulic Filter
Service: Hydraulic
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 5.209
Outer Diameter Top: 3.663
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 1-12
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Beta Ratio: 2/20=5/13
Burst Pressure-PSI: 380
Max Flow Rate: 12-16 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 10

Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.729 2.415 0.255

It's probably not as fine as the hydraulic filter ..but solves your availability issue at the local parts store (I hope
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The difference is a bypass and ADBvalve.
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Gary: I have an 01' Accord with the trouble prone A/T. I read most of the (10 pages of) posts in the Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters thread but I still can't figure out if I should install one. Flow rates, fluid starvation etc... are confusing. If you had this vehicle would you install one and if so which one. I like the idea of the 13 dollar unit from Northern using a Pureone oil filter (because of low cost and availability of filters). What do you think of this set-up? Also, can you direct me to it on Northerns web-site as I can't seem to find it. Thanks Pat.




www.northerntool.com ..put hydraulic filter in the search field ..voila!~.

Q: Do you have flexible lines?

Your results will depend on if the "problem prone" part of your transmission is due to debris fouling the various actuators involved. If new fluid doesn't resolve your issues, then most likely auxiliary filtration won't either. ..but it can't hurt anything and it costs very little to install it.

The filter, whether hydraulic or automotive should last a VERY LONG time unless you encounter some grenading of the converter clutch material. Annually would be more than often enough (for a full flow).
 
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The filter, whether hydraulic or automotive should last a VERY LONG time unless you encounter some grenading of the converter clutch material. Annually would be more than often enough (for a full flow).



As I believe that I mentioned earlier in the thread, my auto trans comes with 2 filters. The standard screen type and a small (like about half the size of the engine filter) spin on. And this size filter is supposed to last for 10s of thousands of miles. The hydraulic filer is larger than a PH8 type filter, so even though it has fine filtration, it should last a very long time.
 
Thanks for your answers guys. After looking under my hood again I think I'll install a Magnafine filter (a site sponser) because it is the easiest choice. At $19.00 a filter (current sale price w/ free shipping if I buy 3) I can have 90K worth of protection for $57.00 without too much installation trouble.

PS: I have 70K on the car and haven't had any issues with the A/T. I changed the original fluid at 25K and twice since (approx. every 20K). I've known a few people who had 6th generation Accord A/T's go bad once they went over 100K. That is what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks again.
 
I installed the Magnafine inline filter this morning and everything went smooth. I had to cut out a 1" piece of the 3/8" metal return line so that the filter could be installed. The rest of the procedure was simply cutting the hose and tightening clamps. These Magnafines are really easy to install and Daryll was a pleasure to deal with. I hope it helps my 6th generation Accords A/T to last as long as the motor.
 
Magnefines are great little gems. They allow anyone to have the added security of inline filtration regardless of clearance limitations. Not everyone has the room (or the skills of a dentist) to fit larger filtering systems.
 
I just ordered some of the 3 micron beta 200 hydraulic filters and they should be here next week. It'll be interesting to see if it affects the next UOA (will be running the same fluid). These are apparently being discontinued by Donaldson though, and being replaced by a 6 micron beta 1000 version. Still pretty good, but the 3 micron spec is nice! And the difference between a 200 and 1000 beta is only .4%.
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Hey y'all,

I've recently been snapping up filters/filter heads on eBay. Want to do a tranny filter on my new Tundra, plus think about a motor-oil filtering/recycling rig.

I also should receive a Northern Tool filter head tomorrow.

Right now, there is a seller with some Fleetguard/Cummins filter heads that look promising. I'd post the link to eBay, but I think that's prohibited (even though I couldn't find a prohibition in the forum rules.) Search on "FLEETGUARD CUMMINGS FILTER HEAD" and you'll find them. Leave the misspelled "CUMMINGS" in there rather than editing it to "CUMMINS."

They seem to fit a nice array of filters:

WIX 51199, a beta 2/20 = 2/21 filter for 28 plus GPM
WIX 51202, a beta 2/20 = 2/11 filter for 28 plus GPM

Or anything with a 1 1/2" by 16 TPI thread with a 3.4" OD, more or less.

Two downsides:

1) It doesn't have a bypass. Yet, the 51202 filter is so gosh-darn big I don't think a tranny would ever plug it up, nor would I think that thin ATF would ever be cold enough to made the delta P high enough to open a bypass if there was one. Both filters are 28 to 30 GPM rated, which is a ton of flow, considering they are rated for rather viscous hyd fluid.

2) Uses straight-thread UNF o-ring seal input/output ports. McMaster does sell UNF to NPT adapters. About $6 each in carbon steel only (no CRES).

I also picked up a PTI Technologies F4E050NN filter head. This head is HUGE! Has 1 1/4" NPT ports. It can take a WIX 51756 filter (beta 2/20 = 2/9 at 28 to 30 GPM). This filter is positively HUGE. nearly 7" tall, 5" in diameter. The head itself weights a few pounds, even thought it's cast Aluminum. 25 PSI bypass. Boy I'd love to use this head in the Tundra if I can find room...

later,
b
 
So you're the guy who's making me not bid.
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I never pay more than salvage for an industrial filter.
 
I don't think so - most of the filter heads I've been buying were buy-it-now's for less than $10 a head. $10 is my limit - probably more than scrap/salvage prices, but still a lot less than list price...

I may have paid $15 for a larger head that had a large filter on it already...

later,
b
 
Yes, there are a few out there. Even if they're a good deal, I can't manage to get too "impulse driven" if the S&H adds up to too much. My second to the last score was two filters, w/head/gauges, for $40 delivered. They're the same filter "class" as yours (5.06" gasket etc.) but not quite as fine.

The first thing I do is xref to Wix to see what it compares to (not always as fine as some offerings) and then check out Fleetfilter and FilterMart to see what they get it for. If replacement costs are too much at the discount level ..then I pass. I will get an expensive filter/head combo if the thread falls into one that has some reasonable priced filter that will fit it.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
FWIW, I contacted Northern and they said that Filtration Products is the supplier for their units. As best I can tell, their unit is a 30 series filter and the 10 micron rating is the only info Northern has.


My Northern Tool mount/filter combo arrived today. Interestingly, it doesn't have the Northern Tool logo filter on it as shown in the catalog and online, but has a Filtration Products Corporation FPE30-10N element on it. Mystery solved, at least for now?

The head is nicely made. I'm not crazy about the filter, though. While externally it appears to be good quality, it was "Made in India." Quality control in India can range from quite good to very poor - and sometimes changes over time.

Good thing that a Wix 51551 (NAPA 1551) fits nicely, has good specs, and is readily available...

thanks much,
ben
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
The first thing I do is xref to Wix to see what it compares to (not always as fine as some offerings) and then check out Fleetfilter and FilterMart to see what they get it for. If replacement costs are too much at the discount level ..then I pass. I will get an expensive filter/head combo if the thread falls into one that has some reasonable priced filter that will fit it.


I do pretty much the same exact thing. I look at the head and if I like it I see what filters the manufacturer recommends. I cross the suggested filters from the manufacturer number to a Wix number, see if the Wix beta ratio and flow make me happy, then I see how much they are on Fleetfilter. I need to look at Filtermart - never looked there before.

I find Fleetfilter's prices and service to be fantastic. Just ordered probably two years worth of filters for my family's fleet of cars so I don't have to play auto parts store filter bingo. (IE: where oh where will I find the filter I need today?) They were here in like three days.

later,
b
 
Filermart.com is mainly for the cartridge/canister filter that you see from time to time. Sometimes you have to run it through Donaldson first to get a number that Wix will recognize. If neither of them have it, then I hit up filtermart. They're not necessarily cheap. Nowhere near as good as fleetfilter ..but if it's a filter that they don't carry, then what are you gonna do for replacements . If they have it listed @$62.95 ...then I sorta know that I'm way out of my league on alternative filtration.

I got this massive canister filter on ebay. A Wm W. Nugent filter. It's got some obscure "bag filter". The thing is HUGE 18 wheeler HUGE. Like one of Ralph's PT-TP combo (motor guard 750?) HUGE ..with a top plate on it that some WWII battleship would be proud to use in some capacity. It has a cast in mounting flange that would take three 1/2" (thread) bolts. It came with engineering drawings ..about 3 pages of them with dimensional and spec data on them. I think that they get some unholy price for this 35um filter ..but there appears to be no alternative offering for it ..so I'm pondering how to adapt it. I think that the company offers other filters to fit the canister, but I haven't found out what. When I emailed them, I think I got a real engineer and he, more or less, appeared to say "You've got a bag filter there, son ..now if you want some other type to fit that thing ..call the clerk at the store front". .





 
Wow, that's a pretty big filter. Biggest one I've snagged off the eBay is a PTI Technologies head that takes a 5" or so diameter spin-on that's about 7" long. It's big, but not like that Nugent filter you've got there.

That was a pretty snooty response from the engineer at Nugent. I'd never of think of treating a customer like that.

On another note, I've recently finished some filter loss calculations on the Northern Tool filter. As people have noted in this thread, ATF is far thinner than the hydraulic oil that is used to measure the flow resistance in these hydraulic filters.

My application is a Toyota Tundra that uses Toyota WS fluid. From the VOA section, I've seen that WS is about 6 cST at 100 degrees C. Yes, this is hotter than I'd like my fluid to be, but I think using the 40 deg C kinematic viscosity is less representative than the 100 deg C number.

This analysis has some problems which I'll discuss up-front:

Problem #1 - most filters are rated with a fluid with a viscosity in SSU. I found a conversion that says 6 cST should be about 30 SSU, tops. This may be inaccurate - it seems VERY simplistic that two viscosity rating methods don't have a more complicated conversion.

Problem #2 - I don't know the specific gravity of Toyota WS. I'll just assume it is the same as the hydraulic oil, which we know is WRONG. But, since I don't have a better guess (it's probably lighter) we'll use the hyd fluid SG. If we make this assumption, SG drops out of the equation I'll be using, so you won't see it below. If there is a lot of interest, I'll look in my notes and find the datasheet that shows the calculation so others will have it as well.

Problem #3 - I've got to assume a flow. 15 GPM is way overkill and I know the Tundra won't do 15 GPM flow, but it's a conservative estimate.

The Filtration Products datasheet shows a 11 psi drop at 15 GPM with a 150 SSU fluid. If we use Toyota WS at 100 deg C, what's the new pressure drop?

From another filter datasheet:

FDPWS = Filter Delta P at 15 GPM with Toyota WS fluid

FDP150 = Filter Delta P at 15 GPM with 150 SSU hydraulic fluid, which is 11 psi

WSSSU = Toyota WS SSU, assumed to be 30

FDPWS = FDP150 * (WSSSU / 150)

FDPWS = about 2.2 psi.

So, as we've discussed in this thread, you will see much less pressure loss across a hydraulic filter with ATF than what the spec sheets note.

later,
b
 
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cst= 0.226xSUS-(195/SUS)

I think you should be looking at about 45 SUS/SSU. So it's still very low ..something like 3.x vs 2.2

This conversion (apparently) only works above 50 SSU

SSU1 = Centistokes (cSt) × 4.55

1centistokes greater than 50

This would have given you 27 CST (I think) which would follow with your "30".
 
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