Auto-RX

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I started this program about 750 miles ago. First I started by introducing MMO and Transmission fluid to the Crankcase (a pint of MMO and a pint of Amsoil ATF - complete change after that). Just a short intro of 350 miles. I had a leaking main rear seal and an engine not cared for as it should have been. This is my fault. Yet, under the recommended oil change Intervals I was well within mileage boundaries. Unfortunately, to my thinking this was totally inadequate.

I used Rotella T6 synthetic and was often fighting being low on fluid. Not sure of the cause (rear main seal was leaking so minimally). My filters were always PureONE filters or a couple of Hastings filters over the 117k miles. I went through the last several winters with, what I considered, inadequate care. Mileage aside (very low), the oil came out looking like it was 20 years old (in the spring). It was thick and contaminated. At least to me it was. Levels were low.

Now I've been trying to clean up what I've done. Somehow I don't quite get how I've mistreated my engine but I'm willing to concede that. So, I embarked on the Auto-RX program. I was excited to learn about the product combined with all of the positive comments here on BITOG.

At this point I'm about 750 miles into the cleaning process. Oil looks super clean. All leaks have stopped. The dipstick has cleaned up to near new. Power remains exceptional and has never lacked. No smoke or any other indicators of problems. Never has been. I've also added 6 oz to my Transmission (Amsoil ATF and a shift kit from Transgo) and also 4 oz to my steering system.

Yet, I know there is problems in the engine. My oil pressure has fallen at hot idle, to about 22 psi. I watched it deteriorate as time has passed. At the same time I know that oil filtration has been a major concern of mine. Valid...I don't know. Despite using PureONE filters. There is FAR more to be had here. Hot oil pressure at 2k rpm's is over 60 psi. Some of this is confusing for me.

Maybe most of these issues are related to the age of the vehicle. It's a 2001. It have 117k on it. Still, it looks so good and, other than the oil pressure at idle, it seems to be a "like new" vehicle.

So, I've been watching how Auto-RX is cleaning. And, it is. It's doing its part. Yet it is a remedy that brings me back to where I should have been long before now. I'm trying to get back to where I should have been long ago. It cannot do that, but, if there is benefit to have, there is no doubt this is an essential component of reclamation. Auto-RX is doing the job of cleaning up my engine.

I've ordered, and received, a new NTZ bypass filter and will use an oversized Fleetgaurd filter for primary filtering from now on. I'm waiting until my 2500 mile oil change to implement the new filter system/regimen. Half way through I'll replace the filter as directed. I've no doubt...it is dirty.

Now I feel certain of a proper course. Too bad it took too long. Too bad I didn't learn of BITOG before now. I know I'd have learned far more. I've learned much from all of you.

Regards,

T
 
I think you may want to leave Auto-RX in for 4-5k miles for it to clean. Someone found that the longer the Auto-RX in the engine, the better it does its job of cleaning.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
I think you may want to leave Auto-RX in for 4-5k miles for it to clean. Someone found that the longer the Auto-RX in the engine, the better it does its job of cleaning.


I was thinking the same thing until I went to the Arx site and saw that Frank now has several different types of "cleanses"
wink.gif
For leaking seals he is recommending 2500 miles and then no synthetics.

http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/sealleak.htm
 
All Class III oils qualify as "non-synthetic". Regardless, I'm going to run a basic Dino until the end of the process (SuperTech - Walmart). Per Frank, this is the proper way. I'll do so until the process is complete.

It's just a matter of following instructions. I'll do so to the letter!!

As for time frames...again, I'll folow the directions. If I need to run a second process (which I expect) I'll do so under the same instructions. That is after the rinse phase with regular Dino.

Once complete I'm switching over to Schaeffer oil. And I'm also making changes in my filtration. I'm installing the NTZ bypass system (which is little more than a paper towel system) combined with a Fleetguard extra large filter. Nothing special about this filter either. It's just very large.

I'm using a Perma-Cool sandwitch setup so I can have regular filtering as well. That's where the Fleetguard comes in. It's a darn good filter. Big too. To "Micro-Filter", that will be accomplished by the NTZ. Amazing, that paper towel or toilet paper is still a very fine filter media. I wish I'd known long ago.

Nonethelesss, this "body" (the G26) is incredibly cheap (eBay) and I bought 3 cases of filters to boot. For the price of paper towels. These are darn good filters.

So, maybe I'll finally apply what I've learned from all of you. Gees, I wish I had long ago.
 
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Sprintman, leave it in there for how long? Why?

I'm going to run 2 applications, as a result, does it not make sense to follow the directions?
 
So you are driving a 2001 Infinity G26?
Is that right?

Another member, Sprintman, did a whole bunch of testing. He found out that the best cleaning it did was on normal 5000 mile intervals with dino.

Im sure he will be along here shortly.

I too have had success with Auto Rx in neglected engines.
 
No, it's a 2001 GMC Savanna Van...5.7 engine (350).

Probably too many short trips have likely caused this.

The G26 is an NTZ microfilter. That won't be installed until later.

Thanks
 
On the low oil pressure, the OPS in the GM trucks (yours is one although it is a van), sometimes failed. Then you have to replace it with ACDelco branded. As a matter of fact, anything that say sensor needs to be ACDelco so that it behaves correctly.

If you want to measure the true oil pressure, you may need to hook up a separate gauge to compare with the gauge cluster oil pressure.
 
Well, I thought of that. Just bought a new Oil Pressure Sending unit, and yes, it's a AC Delco. Haven't put it in yet.

It's really strange to me that the leaks have completely stopped already. What's more, the regular Dino is staying totally full. The oil has just now started to turn a bit brown. I thought most of the cleansing and sealing became more apparent during the rinse phase.

I'm going to run it longer per Sprintman's research. Still, 5000 miles on regular Dino seems awfully long. Having a hard time wrapping my mind around that one. I'm still going to change the filter at 1200 miles and then again at 2500 miles. I'll assess where I'm at then. I'm going to wait to install the NTZ filter. I may run RVS if this isn't as successful as I hope.

I've also been working on my cooling system. I cleaned it out with Permatex heavy duty radiator cleaner. Man, that's nasty and aggressive stuff. What initially came out was disgusting. I've flush my entire system now probably 10 times. What I can see in the radiator looks brand new now but it set off a ton of leaks. I replaced the waterpump (Bosch), the thermostat (Stant), all of the hoses and a new Stant radiator cap. As well as a new sensor. Hopefully, that system is now in proper order. It's not easy with rear heat in such a long vehicle. You got to keep flushing, filling, driving, flushing, filling if you want it all clean.

I guess it's all a matter of time now. I'm certain I still have too many short trips. I don't drive 50 miles a day so I'm going to have to make do with my current regimen. It's not that bad, I drive for business but it's only 2-3 days a week. Those days are when I put on my mileage.

Well, I'll keep checking in. Thanks for the input...it's valuable!
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Thanks for the info on kreen i will run a quick 20 min flush.
I have tried ARX on many cars and was not impressed with it at all.


I'd be interested in your results with Kreen. Kano Kroil is an awesome product, I would expect Kreen to be a quality product as well.
 
I guess I must be smokin something. I've never known regular Dino to be run beyond 3k let alone 5k?

I must be missing something.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: Tharder
I guess I must be smokin something. I've never known regular Dino to be run beyond 3k let alone 5k?

I must be missing something.

Thanks



Welcome to Bitog, many of us were under the same impression. Read and enjoy! Just make sure if you plan on pushing dino to 5K that your vehicle doesn't fall under severe service category. If so check the OM for a severe service OCI, or you might want to verify you can go that distance with dino oil via a UOA.
 
All dealerships use dino in Australia bar a few minor exceptions and OCI's are 10,000km (few) mainly 12,500kms, and 15,000kms. Always been that way and vehicles here are kept longer than in the U.S.
 
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