Auto-Rx with Amsoil flush at the end of the clean

[Donald]

Auto-Rx is designed to liquify caked-on sludge. Amsoil flush is designed to get rid of liquified sludge. (Don't confuse Amsoil flush with the 5 minute flush available at the parts store that are mainly kerosene).

How about running a normal Auto-Rx clean phase, When ready to change the oil after 1500 miles, change the filter, add a container of Amsoil flush and run at fast idle for 20 minutes and dump. It will not clean out any more caked-on sludge, but maybe eliminate the rinse phase?

 

[Rick20]

Likely a bad idea. ARX has impregnated deposits that were not removed during the cleaning phase. These deposits are preped for the slow removal during the rinse phase.

It is likely that a quick flush type product will have a greater tendancy to chunk off large deposits.

So my vote is no.

Let ARX do its thing by itself.

 

[ConfederateTyrant]

Donald,
Give it a try, everyone always talks of breaking off large deposits, but NO ONE has given a real life example of this situation. Just sounds like scare tactics from people who say Auto-RX is not a solvent (which it is by definition). Not bashing the product, as I've already used it in my power steering, automatic transmission, and differential, with the engine treatment starting in the next week or so.

Even if you waited until the end of the rinse phase you would still have the "risk" that Rick20 stated, if you have a s***-ton of deposits.

 

[Donald]

I can give you a real life example actually. Bought a 1965 Mustang when I was 18. It was probably not in the best condition, but heck I wanted a Mustang with a 289 engine. Thinking back to around 1970, my guess is the guy who owned it before me used regular non detergent oil. I changed the oil with my Dad's Quacker State detergent oil and started up the engine. Never got any oil pressure although I rev'ed the engine several times. Took things apart latter on and found the shaft (looks like a pencil) from the dist. to the oil pump had sheared in half. Inside the oil pump big chunks of sludge had jammed the pump. I assume these were not chunks that had gotten past the screen, they were the result of sludge inside the oil pump that had loosened.

OK, maybe not an exact example, but you get the picture.

 

[ConfederateTyrant]

Yes Donald, I can understand that. I was referring to clogging because someone used a flush type product. I can see how my statement was kind of unclear about how clogging was caused.

 

[Rick20]

Donald,

If you are saying that immediately after pouring the detergent oil into the 289, the detergents broke free a bunch of deposits that lead to the demize of the oil pump immediately, I would say that is false. I am assuming that you never got oil pressure after the oil change, never even got to the point of the pump being primed to pump oil. Sounds to me the pump shaft had fortunetly failed immediately preceeding the oil change. In which case the motor was never under any real load with no oil pressure. What was the fate of the 289 once the oil pump and drive were replaced.

In more modern motors oil passages are much tighter than they were back in the 60's. The demand for lighter, more economical, cleaner burning motors are quite likely more succeptable to damage from chunked off deposits.

 

[Pablo]

Quote:

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How about running a normal Auto-Rx clean phase, When ready to change the oil after 1500 miles, change the filter, add a container of Amsoil flush and run at fast idle for 20 minutes and dump. It will not clean out any more caked-on sludge, but maybe eliminate the rinse phase?

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For whatever reason it seems that the rinse phase of AutoRx is quite necessary for AutoRx to do the intended job. I'm not sure it will help to just try to flush out the AutoRx loaded oil. It probably won't hurt the engine, and it may actually help clean - well at least it will help drain - but will the deep gumbo be as well cleaned at the rings? I'm thinking not, that's all.

I say do the normal rinse phase and then do the Amsoil flush.

 

[Donald]

Quote:

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Donald,

If you are saying that immediately after pouring the detergent oil into the 289, the detergents broke free a bunch of deposits that lead to the demize of the oil pump immediately, I would say that is false. I am assuming that you never got oil pressure after the oil change, never even got to the point of the pump being primed to pump oil. Sounds to me the pump shaft had fortunetly failed immediately preceeding the oil change. In which case the motor was never under any real load with no oil pressure. What was the fate of the 289 once the oil pump and drive were replaced.

In more modern motors oil passages are much tighter than they were back in the 60's. The demand for lighter, more economical, cleaner burning motors are quite likely more succeptable to damage from chunked off deposits.

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I drove the car home when I bought it and the oil pressure was fine. After I changed the oil, there was no oil pressure. I would think its reasonable that if detergent oil sat in the pan where the oil pump pickup is immersed for 30 minutes (while I changed filter, etc,) it could have loosened one or two chunks of sludge in the oil pump or around the screen and they got pulled into the oil pump and jammed it causing the shaft driving it to shear.

Being 18 and not really knowing what I was doing, I rebuilt the engine completly after this failure.

Of course this was in 1970 (I think) and that was a few years ago and I could not be remembering a few things correctly.

After the rebuild (I had gone too far with a 3/4 grind camshaft) I sold it and bought a 1969 Mach 1 Mustang with a 351 Cleveland engine.

 

[Tempest]

Quote:

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For whatever reason it seems that the rinse phase of AutoRx is quite necessary for AutoRx to do the intended job.

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On both the 1st clean phase and rinse phase on both of my vehicles, there was a notable amount of carbonaceous junk that came out of the drain pan along with the oil. On the second clean phase, there was not. So to me, the rinse phase IS important. Still in the second rinse phase so we will see about that one.

I say just stick with the ARX. Frank has said that ARX will attack solvents, and vice versa. So the solvents in the Flush might detract from the ARX cleaning.

 

[Rick20]

I am on board with you Tempest. Let ARX do its thing, following the application instructions. Users should exercize patience, ARX instructions are provided with the utmost concern for safety in the cleaning process.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Do the proper rinse phase before useing any solvent based flush!

 

[Lonnie]

If the product works why not use it as intended by the manufacturer? Failing that go use something else. I think I would not expose my wheels to such an experiment. You have little to gain if anything and following the instructions might net you a clean engine.