Auto-RX Filter Pic – 99 Volvo S70 T5

[darrenc]

People often ask, “do I really need to clean my engine if I’ve run synthetic motor oil its whole life.” Well, I was curious too, and I had an extra bottle of ARX from one of Frank’s specials, so I tried it out on my 99 Volvo S70 T5. My Volvo has received a study diet of Amsoil ATM (PAO synthetic 10w30) at 5,000-mile intervals since new, thus I figured that it couldn’t hurt, but probably wouldn’t help. The picture below was taken from the Volvo’s cartridge style filter after a 1,500-mile run of Auto-RX using Pennzoil 10w30. Miles on vehicle at the time of the photo were 55,567. The car is now nearing the end of its 3,000-mile rinse with Chevron 10w30. I’ll post more pictures after the rinse period. Needless to say, I was pretty surprised at what I found in the filter pleats. Clearly, the material was sludgy, and it was noticeably gritty. Also, the oil was black as tar when it came out. Based on what I’ve found here, I’ll be doing an ARX treatment periodically.

Please note that I have no affiliation with ARX. They were however generous enough to post the picture for me so that I could show all of you here. Enjoy.

 

[427Z06]

Just curious. Have you ever cut open your oil filters and looked between the pleats before you did the AuotRX treatment?

 

[darrenc]

I do this all the time on my vehicles. On my Volvo, checking out the filter is a breeze since there is no canister, just a pleated media cartridge. On my jeep, I have to hack it open with a hacksaw, a major PITA. I’ve never seen anything like I posted above, even after I ARX’ed my Jeep, which had many more miles on it. At the moment, my theory is that the ARX is cleaning out the turbo.

 

[cweed]

thats just rancid....

 

[ALS]

Thanks for the heads up. I've been running Mobil One 10W30 for 4500 mile OCI in my B230FT. Right now I've got 21,000 miles on it. After seeing your pictures I'm doing an Auto-RX treatment at 30,000 miles.

 

[darrenc]

No problem ALS. I was pretty surprised considering I am running top shelf oil. What are you running your B230FT in? That’s one durable motor. I put over 200K on one in a 740.

Darren

 

[sbc350gearhead]

I would love to see a similar test on a NA engine.

 

[TooManyWheels]

I have had similar type and quantity of debris freed by Auto-RX, but it was from a 175K Chevy small block, on dino, which was overheated at least once.

Given the history, I was not all that surprised by the gunk. What did surprise me was the very considerable increase in performance, from an engine which had never run right in the 100k miles in my possession.

 

[ALS]

I have it in a 1987 745 Turbo. My old motor was pulled at 282,700 miles due to a rod knock. The original motor had 3,000 OCI with Pennzoil 10W30.
Installed a Volvo remanufactured B230FT last June. Was thrilled to find it came with all the upgrades that were in the 94-95 motors. The good head, bigger rods, piston oil squirters and larger bearings. I thought $2,550 for a quarter of million mile motor was a good deal. Many others must have thought the same thing since my dealer with mine had installed 3 motors by June. Said a lot of the 700 and 900 owners were talking about installing new motors and transmissions instead buying another car. The car they did a week before mine 88 760 got a new motor, transmission and a rebuilt driveshaft and rear end. I had to wait an extra three weeks for the motor since Volvo ran out of motors and were waiting for a new shipment.
Also I have a Saab APC system on it set at 14 psi 200 to 210HP for full throttle runs. I swapped out the Auto for a M46, 25mm sways, lowered, with upper and lower chassis braces. Due to gas prices I installed a rocker switch for the APC. Off factory wastegate set 7 psi max, on APC system set at 14 psi max boost.

 

[darrenc]

Very cool. I really miss my 740. It's structure was much better than my S70, which is awfully flabby. Every little bump sends quivers through the chassis. My 740 was like a rock. Oh well. I do like my B5234T5 motor, however! Front wheel drive…well, that’s yet another story.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Just to play the Devil's Advocate, how do we know that crud is not the ARX itself?

 

[MarkC]

I was going to ask that, but I guess I thought I didn't want to.

 

[Rick20]

I think if you do enough research on ARX from pictorials of engine parts before and after ARX, oil analysis, testimonials of increased compression, from cleaning coked up ring packs, then you probably wouldn't ask that question.

 

[2003TRD]

someone put some in some fresh oil, cook it in the oven on broil (or whatever the crankcase runs at) for a day or two and lets see if the autoRx oxidizes/precitates or falls of of solution. Any takers?

 

[Tim]

Funny...the only AutoRx naysayers I've ever seen (heard) are the ones who have never used it.

I've yet to come across anyone who has used it and said never again.

That alone is enough to make me figure it is worth a look. Even really good products generate some disatisfied customers. I just haven't found the unhappy AutoRx customer yet.

Tim

 

[Audi Junkie]

Audi Techs now tell me that stuff is called "Turbo Turds" and they pick it out from the oil lines when a new unit goes in. Thinking about it, the material shown is not ARX..."itself" because I have cut open ARX filters without finding anything . I just expected a wiz-bang answer from some Guru that would explain it. I often reference this thread to turbo owners, hello AW'ers.

 

[Sparkman]

quote:

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Originally posted by sbc350gearhead:
I would love to see a similar test on a NA engine.

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I recently cut open the Napa Gold filter that I used for the 1648 mile Auto-RX clean cycle on my wife's subaru. The car ran 3k changes of Pennzoil from new to 70k, 3-4k changes of Mobil 1 to 120k, and 7.5k changes of Amsoil since then to 165k. There was absolutely nothing in the filter.

EDIT: I will cut open the rinse cycle filter and take a look here in a couple of weeks.

 

[Pablo]

I think the killer her is indeed the turbo. Note the color and then compare to a black coked turbo oil line when fed a constant diet of dino oil.

You guys know I have a turbo Volvo with 250,000 miles on it. The first 150K miles were on Dino and it needed 2 new turbos (it's on it's third). When I put the turbo in at 150K the oil lines were completely constipated with turbo turds. The point being if turbos are this hard on synthetic oil, and Volvo in 1985 didn't even recommend going 3K on dino oil......synthetic oil and the ocaisional AutoRx treat are a good thing. I have 100,000 miles on this 3rd turbo and it's still perfect.

It's good to know AutoRx will clean that crap. Nothing else (safe) real touches that coked oil once it's formed.

 

[Shaman]

Can i suggest a turbo timer if you don't already have one.

 

[Ken2]

quote:

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Originally posted by Shaman:
Can i suggest a turbo timer if you don't already have one.

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Won't work on my Volvo with the security system. And, while allowing the turbo to cool after a hard, hot run is very important, using the correct oil is essential...as owners of VW 1.8 turbo engines are learning.


Ken