01 Volvo V70 T5, Oil Discussion/Assistance Needed

[VolvoV70T5]

Picked up A V70 T5, and I want to change out the oil for something else. Previous owner used Castrol High miles, semi synthetic 10w-30. Change every 5k miles. But I was reading, and I’ll paraphrase since I can’t seem to find the post again. That apparently in Volvos, high mileage oil additives makes the seals expand and swell, and if you switch out to a oil that doesn’t have that same additives, it’s possible the seals that now were coated or expanded with from the high mileage formulation, will shrink back down and cause oil leaks.

I was going to run the Mobil 1 European 0w-40 every week or so and change it out as I read every good things about it protecting and cleaning your engine. And then after a few quick changes go back to normal oil change style. I’m just not a big fan of semi synthetic so I’d like to just fully go back to what I’m used to. I was previously going to run 5w-30 advanced full synthetic high miles mobile 1 as my engines always seemed to have lasted a lot and sound beautiful while on that oil. But this is my first Sweden or European car. So I’m just reading into it.

Any recommendations?

 

[Astro14]

How many miles?

Has the PCV system been replaced?

These engines are prone to PCV system clogging, which causes seal failures.

More likely the anecdotes you’re hearing were caused by that than from switching oil types.

Any oil that meets ACEA A3/B4 or MB 229.5 will be a good choice for your Volvo. Mobil 1 0W40 for example.

Seals on the front of the engine can be done when the timing belt is done. Rear cam seals aren’t hard but intake piping and upper engine mount has to come off.

 

[VolvoV70T5]

How many miles?

Has the PCV system been replaced?

These engines are prone to PCV system clogging, which causes seal failures.

More likely the anecdotes you’re hearing were caused by that than from switching oil types.

Any oil that meets ACEA A3/B4 or MB 229.5 will be a good choice for your Volvo. Mobil 1 0W40 for example.

Seals on the front of the engine can be done when the timing belt is done. Rear cam seals aren’t hard but intake piping and upper engine mount has to come off.

200k miles, but pcv, timing, rear main seal, clutch, flywheel etc. has been done in recent time. I believe timing was done at 193k. It was my buddies car Volvo master mechanic.

 

[VolvoV70T5]

The only issue I have is the VVT Solonoid pooped. Assuming from it sitting over the winter some oil thickened in there. He never really got on the car much but when I did that code came up. So I want to get better oil in there and then change it out.

 

[LazyDog]

The VVT solenoid has a screen so running 10-40 during winter time is not good. I'll pick a 10-30 oil and run it all year.

 

[VolvoV70T5]

The VVT solenoid has a screen so running 10-40 during winter time is not good. I'll pick a 10-30 oil and run it all year.

He doesn’t drive the car in winter. Also found out it was 10w-30 not 40w.

 

[meep]

This car wants a full synthetic, and 0-40 is a great choice for it.

from what I understand, seal sweller additives in HM oils are not as concentrated as buying the seal sweller itself in a bottle. I think you could walk away from it and be ok.

I have, anecdotally, been one of the 2 people on bitog that experienced an oil weep condition when I changed all of our cars from penzoil platinum to mobil 1, both synthetic. Two of the 4 cars I was caring for developed “hot oil smell” a few weeks into their life with Mobil, which lasted about 6 weeks. It also ended on its own. No oil was spilled during the change. It was not a “maybe,” it was pronounced. I think there could have been some weepage and I was not happy about it. Another bitoger has experienced the same. It’s fine now, however.

I think you are fine to make the change. Especially with the pcv on these cars, full synthetic is a must. Congrats on the v70!

 

[Sam_Julier]

As @Astro14 states, Mobil 1 0W40 is an excellent oil for this engine.

I agree.

I have ave owned many of these cars with this engine.

The PCV system is prone to clogging. Partially because the engine runs on cool. And the design of the PCV system.

Unfortunately Volvo dealers are known for using oil that do not meet the spec. Causing all sorts of problems.

As long as the oil used meets the A3/B4, MB 229.5 spec this engine will last a long time.

Do not cheap out on the oil or extend the OCI beyond 7,500.

 

[andrew_j]

Oil is not the problems with this vehicle, change it to correct spec then focus on the lurking issues. Good luck

 

[brages]

Oil is not the problems with this vehicle, change it to correct spec then focus on the lurking issues. Good luck

+1

It's an old Volvo, you will have enough real problems to address. Save your time and money, don't do weekly oil changes.

 

[VolvoV70T5]

+1

It's an old Volvo, you will have enough real problems to address. Save your time and money, don't do weekly oil changes.

Honestly from what I can tell all the major stuff has been taken care of. PCV, Timing, clutch, flywheel, rear main seal. There isn’t a spec of rust on the car it’s mint underneath. The only issue I have so far is a vvt solonoid that I believe was from the car sitting over the winter, and after changing the oil even that seems better. I got a new used one coming in anyways. Didn’t feel like getting a new one and having to wire it to the new design. I’m also gonna try cleaning the one that was on the car and then re assemble it if the other one won’t drop in and work. And aside from that coils, spark plugs. And she’ll be running great. I see a couple cracked vacuum lines but nothing crazy. Turbo Spools a little slow and that’s from exhaust vvt not actuating I’d say.

 

[Astro14]

Consider replacing your Turbo Control Valve. IPD sells a fancy one. Nothing wrong with the OEM Pierburg. About $60.

Replace the vacuum lines to the turbo. Regular hose is OK. Silicone is easier to cut and route.

While you’re in there, consider doing the compression bypass valve. Crazy price from Volvo. IPD has a $40 kit. Three bolts. Small hands and small box wrenches are a plus for that job.

Check your wastegate adjustment with a vacuum gauge. They get lazy. I think it’s 4PSI on this engine, but check and then use a Mity-vac and be sure it’s holding until the specified PSI. Easily adjusted if it’s off. And they’re often off.

Those will fix your turbo lag.

Get a solenoid gasket and then pull the solenoid and clean the screen. See how much improvement that gets you.

 

[meep]

Consider replacing your Turbo Control Valve. IPD sells a fancy one. Nothing wrong with the OEM Pierburg. About $60.

Replace the vacuum lines to the turbo. Regular hose is OK. Silicone is easier to cut and route.

While you’re in there, consider doing the compression bypass valve. Crazy price from Volvo. IPD has a $40 kit. Three bolts. Small hands and small box wrenches are a plus for that job.

Check your wastegate adjustment with a vacuum gauge. They get lazy. I think it’s 4PSI on this engine, but check and then use a Mity-vac and be sure it’s holding until the specified PSI. Easily adjusted if it’s off. And they’re often off.

Those will fix your turbo lag.

Get a solenoid gasket and then pull the solenoid and clean the screen. See how much improvement that gets you.

I…. Wish I knew this with my last one. I don’t think it was off, but when I was looking for another one this would have been super helpful.