ATF change..legitimate method ?

[roby77]

Hello..I am a new member and dont really know how these forums operate so i am posting this as a new topic,though it may have been discussed before. Yesterday i ordered 7 ltrs of Amsoil ATF for my 1990 Honda Civic. I have just bought the car and have no service history so i thought i should change the ATF, but after reading the debates i am not sure that i am right to use Amsoil and rather think i should have used Hondas Z-1. Anyhow the question is i have been advised to change the ATF in the following fashion and would rather like to know if this is a legitimate method. I have not heard of this before...

I have been told i should not only drain the auto sump (it is recommended that any filter is also replaced) but after filling with Amsoil let the car tick over and have the box itself pump out the 'other half' of the fluid still trapped in the torque converter, cooler and pipes by having the oil cooler return pipes disconnected.. This is often refered to as a 'full flush'. You will know that this procedure is complete when the olf fluid being pumped out changes to a bright red.

Does anyone or anybody think this is an ok method..

 

[cmhj]

Here's a brief write up I did for another site on procedure. I've done it this way many times. >>>>>>

Over the years I've found when one asks if they can do it themselves, they probably shouldn't try it. Flushing a trany is not all that difficult but there's a right and wrong way.

Service manuals cover this to some extent. If you are able to use a service manual, then you might be able to do it.

Per cost it would of course be cheaper to do it yourself, if done
properly.

Color alone is not an indication the fluid is bad but an indication it could be depending on your type of driving.

Many times a trany flush is never needed. Depending on the type of driving you do and what the vehicle is used for will typically suggest if it has to be done besides the fluids appearance. However, even you fall into the lightest duty service out there, a drain and fill is usually called for, for longer life and better overall shifting.

But for those that fall into a severe service category, here's one way of doing it. If you don't know where or what a cooling line is, then I'd suggest to stop right here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First, drain the fluid from the pan, remove pan & clean, replace
filter if equipped. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan gasket, and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step.

Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line. The bottom line is usually the return line. Once the line has been disconnected, attach a clear piece of tubing to the transmission cooler.

Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a container and place it where it can be seen.

For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking
brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be worked thru all shift points so the torque converter fluid is changed as well.

After approximately 4 to 5 quarts of fluid have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color of the fluid. When this happens most of the old fluid has been replaced.

When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the
transmission cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and add fluid as required per the instructions in your owners or service manual.

This works best with 2 people. One to add fluid as it is being pumped out, while watching to fluid color and another to quickly shutoff the engine when the fluid has changed color.

If you don't have a helper. Turn the engine on and off every 15 seconds or so, topping off the trany on each cycle and using a different jug each time until the fluid color changes.

Things will vary some between makes and models. However, in generic terms, this will cover most of the bases.

 

[John_K]

Some people have said to overfill the tranny and then let it pump some out via this method...any reason not to do that?

John

 

[cmhj]

Originally Posted By: John_K
Some people have said to overfill the tranny and then let it pump some out via this method...any reason not to do that?

John


No but typically I've found that still won't be enough fluid.

 

[Big Jim]

Keep in mind that many Honda's do not have a serviceable trans filter. The filter is not accessible without a trans teardown.

The dump and fill works reasonably well, especially if repeated once or twice. Personally, I like the "hose in a bucket" flush method. It works well for me.

 

[Donald]

The normal Amsoil Synthetic Auto trans fluid is listed on their website as the proper ATF for your vehicle. Its the right ATF to use unless your current fluid really looks bad, in which case I would put in some decent ATF, run it for a few weeks and then put in the Amsoil.

 

[mikeg5]

Originally Posted By: cmhj
Here's a brief write up I did for another site on procedure. I've done it this way many times. >>>>>>

Over the years I've found when one asks if they can do it themselves, they probably shouldn't try it. Flushing a trany is not all that difficult but there's a right and wrong way.

Service manuals cover this to some extent. If you are able to use a service manual, then you might be able to do it.

Per cost it would of course be cheaper to do it yourself, if done
properly.

Color alone is not an indication the fluid is bad but an indication it could be depending on your type of driving.

Many times a trany flush is never needed. Depending on the type of driving you do and what the vehicle is used for will typically suggest if it has to be done besides the fluids appearance. However, even you fall into the lightest duty service out there, a drain and fill is usually called for, for longer life and better overall shifting.

But for those that fall into a severe service category, here's one way of doing it. If you don't know where or what a cooling line is, then I'd suggest to stop right here!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

First, drain the fluid from the pan, remove pan & clean, replace
filter if equipped. Once you've replaced the filter, the pan gasket, and reinstalled the pan, you're ready for the next step.

Fill the transmission to the proper level using the proper fluid. Then disconnect the return transmission line. The bottom line is usually the return line. Once the line has been disconnected, attach a clear piece of tubing to the transmission cooler.

Place the unattached end of the clear tube in a container and place it where it can be seen.

For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking
brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be worked thru all shift points so the torque converter fluid is changed as well.

After approximately 4 to 5 quarts of fluid have been pumped out, you should notice a change in the color of the fluid. When this happens most of the old fluid has been replaced.

When completed, reconnect the transmission return line to the
transmission cooler. Check the fluid level as you normally would, and add fluid as required per the instructions in your owners or service manual.

This works best with 2 people. One to add fluid as it is being pumped out, while watching to fluid color and another to quickly shutoff the engine when the fluid has changed color.

If you don't have a helper. Turn the engine on and off every 15 seconds or so, topping off the trany on each cycle and using a different jug each time until the fluid color changes.

Things will vary some between makes and models. However, in generic terms, this will cover most of the bases.


i really really really really wouldnt pump out no more than 2qts at a time. dump 2qts and refill 2qts and repeat until fluid is clean.

 

[mikeg5]

For the next portion of the procedure, make sure that the parking
brake is set prior to continuing. Start the engine. The transmission needs to be worked thru all shift points so the torque converter fluid is changed as well.
(quote)

can someone explain this to me? are you doing this shifting as the atf is being pumped out?

 

[cmhj]

Originally Posted By: mikeg5


i really really really really wouldnt pump out no more than 2qts at a time. dump 2qts and refill 2qts and repeat until fluid is clean.


Why? I've done 30-35 units in this fashion with no issues.

If one lets the pump run dry then you could have an issue but I've never had such.

However, I did sort of suggest such if doing this alone.

 

[cmhj]

Originally Posted By: mikeg5
)

can someone explain this to me? are you doing this shifting as the atf is being pumped out?


Yuperrou, I always try to get fluid thru the valve body orifices, which won't always happen in park or neutral.

Again read the last line I wrote.

"Things will vary some between makes and models. However, in generic terms, this will cover most of the bases."

 

[mikeg5]

wow

 

[Audi Junkie]

However you do it, fine, but ESPECIALLY if you have to mix a large amount of new fluid to clear out the old stuff, (and is the old fluid is pretty old >50k) Then I would do a flush with cheap Dexron first. Do it with Dex and drive a day a week a month or whatever, THEN dump it out and put the AMSoil in a cleaner trans. No way would I toss new AM$oil in an old trans with old beat fluid that won't all come out at once. Use dex to flush it.

 

[unDummy]

Problem is that many transmission won't run on cheap dexron.

I simply flush the transmission completely via the cooler line using the tranny's capacity plus extra. Always start with a pan(if you have one) drain/refill, or pan drop(recommended if over 100k to clean magnets and replace internal filter). If ATF filter is external, change it last(no point in pumping old ATF through new external screw-on or inline filter).

2-quart intervals is a waste of time. Most pans hold almost a gallon. Many can be overfill by at least 1/2 their capacity.