Are the days of the 10k OCI over with?

Get off my lawn energy in this thread at levels never before seen in competition.
Enter The Peak BITOG
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The Taurus is presently at 12k+ OCI and soon 13k, maybe 14k and 15k.. What's the best company to get a UOA done with? I've heard NOT Blackstone... And who would like to see?

Oil looks fine and doesn't seem to be being consumed.
I'm been impressed with Oil Analysers via Amsoil since a TBN is included in the price w/ shipping.

 
So you haven't read your manual then.
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And the word was overtly.

Time and time again you choose bluster and arrogance over humility and reason, and time and time again these discussions devolve into pissing matches as a result of that decision, just as this one now has. I don't expect that to bother you, because I know it doesn't, but as the lone bearer of the torch for this brutally crude crusade, ever flailing hopelessly against the tsunami of time, does the weight of this burden not ever cause you to take pause and allow the spectre of introspection, lapping tirelessly at your earlobes and whispering seductively to your subconscious, to overwhelm you, at least for a little while?

And if you do, and it does, do you not find solace in these interludes, no matter how brief they may be?
So then why does the meter not correspond with the manual? Or is that question too "arrogant"?
 
So then why does the meter not correspond with the manual? Or is that question too "arrogant"?
The language is clear, no? 🤷‍♂️ If your driving habits are such that you do not run out the IOLM within a 12-month period, or you manage to exceed 10,000 miles, then you change the oil and reset the IOLM. For typical driving profiles, the IOLM should result in the oil being changed before 12 months and 10,000 miles is reached, but there are clearly provisions for scenarios, such as yours, where that won't take place, where sufficient mileage simply isn't accrued over the course of the year, which is why there is an overarching time-based parameter.

I don't bother with the time-based schedule, as dumping a premium synthetic lube after 12 months seems silly, so I just follow the IOLM on my SRT. After I early dumped the factory fill, this resulted in the following intervals so far:
1. 13 months, 5,955 miles
2. 11 months, 6,086 miles

There was an early change between those two when I swapped out the Ravenol for HPL.

On our truck, which gets driven more frequently:
1. 5 months, 8,818 miles
2. 9 months, 6,508 miles
3. 8 months, 7,253 miles
4. 9 months, 7,280 miles
5. 8 months, 6,197 miles
6. 6 months, 6,923 miles
7. 6 months, 6,758 miles

The first interval was between March and August, lots of highway driving, and good weather. That yielded the longest interval from the IOLM so far.
 
The language is clear, no? 🤷‍♂️ If your driving habits are such that you do not run out the IOLM within a 12-month period, or you manage to exceed 10,000 miles, then you change the oil and reset the IOLM. For typical driving profiles, the IOLM should result in the oil being changed before 12 months and 10,000 miles is reached, but there are clearly provisions for scenarios, such as yours, where that won't take place, where sufficient mileage simply isn't accrued over the course of the year, which is why there is an overarching time-based parameter.

I don't bother with the time-based schedule, as dumping a premium synthetic lube after 12 months seems silly, so I just follow the IOLM on my SRT. After I early dumped the factory fill, this resulted in the following intervals so far:
1. 13 months, 5,955 miles
2. 11 months, 6,086 miles

There was an early change between those two when I swapped out the Ravenol for HPL.

On our truck, which gets driven more frequently:
1. 5 months, 8,818 miles
2. 9 months, 6,508 miles
3. 8 months, 7,253 miles
4. 9 months, 7,280 miles
5. 8 months, 6,197 miles
6. 6 months, 6,923 miles
7. 6 months, 6,758 miles

The first interval was between March and August, lots of highway driving, and good weather. That yielded the longest interval from the IOLM so far.
I change oil and filter twice a year regardless of mileage. That's just me. I use a calendar. The first of April, and again on the first of October. Am I changing it too often? Perhaps. But that's another argument for another day. I mentioned in my original post I don't trust the meter. And I told you why.

And yes, I read the manual where it states you should not go more than 12 months without changing the oil, regardless of the mileage. I said I didn't trust the meter. To which you responded that, "I don't understand the technical basis for how they operate".

And called me an, "an overtly paranoid luddite that nobody should be taking seriously". Well if these things are so "technical" and sophisticated, and take so much into account, they should run to zero % at least every 12 months, regardless of the mileage on the odometer.

Mine has gone to zero exactly TWICE in 8 YEARS. (I reset it when it did)..... Again it doesn't take a master mechanic to understand you should change your oil more than twice in 8 years of driving, per the highly technical and sophisticated oil change meter.

Yet that is exactly what the meter has told me. Yeah, it's laughable. But what if some woman who doesn't know cars from beans trusted it? She would have an engine full of sludge based on what the B.S. oil change meter told her.

Now, is my meter "broken"? I don't think so. This is the way they operate. I drive my car very little. I drive in a warm, desert climate with very little humidity, and my oil reaches 200 F+ most every time the car is driven.

But none of this changes the fact the super sophisticated and technical oil meter, that I just cannot grasp the operation of, is full of crap.
 
I change oil and filter twice a year regardless of mileage. That's just me. I use a calendar. The first of April, and again on the first of October. Am I changing it too often? Perhaps. But that's another argument for another day. I mentioned in my original post I don't trust the meter. And I told you why.

And yes, I read the manual where it states you should not go more than 12 months without changing the oil, regardless of the mileage. I said I didn't trust the meter. To which you responded that, "I don't understand the technical basis for how they operate".

And called me an, "an overtly paranoid luddite that nobody should be taking seriously". Well if these things are so "technical" and sophisticated, and take so much into account, they should run to zero % at least every 12 months, regardless of the mileage on the odometer.

Mine has gone to zero exactly TWICE in 8 YEARS. (I reset it when it did)..... Again it doesn't take a master mechanic to understand you should change your oil more than twice in 8 years of driving, per the highly technical and sophisticated oil change meter.

Yet that is exactly what the meter has told me. Yeah, it's laughable. But what if some woman who doesn't know cars from beans trusted it? She would have an engine full of sludge based on what the B.S. oil change meter told her.

Now, is my meter "broken"? I don't think so. This is the way they operate. I drive my car very little. I drive in a warm, desert climate with very little humidity, and my oil reaches 200 F+ most every time the car is driven.

But none of this changes the fact the super sophisticated and technical oil meter, that I just cannot grasp the operation of, is full of crap.

A few folks here are rather argumentative and childish with memes, some are put off with what they perceive as old people speak, some in fact agree with a few of your points. I find OLMs annoying myself and would rather go by even 5k odometer changes or as close as I can get (ie, 45k, 50k, etc). Thanks for sharing the many firm words. Go have a cold one and enjoy the weekend.
 
I do 4k/6 month OCI's with a low priced group III full synthetic. I use solvent flushes during oil changes, and am preparing for a move to HPL PCMO for it's AN + Ester based cleaning. I think the biggest issue we face today is piston ring cleanliness.

The 10k OCI using any non Ester based oil seems to imply getting dirty oil control rings (on the pistons) after 100k miles in some vehicles, which can lead to oil burning at 1 quart every 1k miles, and groves in the cylinder walls due to the dirty stuck piston rings which can lead to an $8,000 partial engine replacement with a short block.

The general consensus is 5k/6 month OCI with any full synthetic is a safe choice. I've read on some forums about people getting sludge/varnish with the 5k OCI, so I chose 4k mile / 6 month OCI instead, so the oil isn't in the engine long enough to cause any new sludge/varnish.
Prime example my 2015.5 XC60 Volvo which suffers exactly what you mention. At the time I got the car, BITOG was all in the 10k+ rage and how the modern oils can survive for 15k. Many members were even going into measuring contests (or so it seems) regarding how long they can go between OCIs. They would spend more money on multiple black stone reports rather than change the oil.

Sadly I was naive enough to fall into that 10k mentality train and I am paying for my own stupidity. Would the shorter OCI reduce the now hungry Volvo? Who knows.
 
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I would do 10k on a naturally aspirated motor, but seeing most engines going turbo, DI, or twin turbo to satisfy EPA regulations, I would scale it back.
If this trend continues then we will have nothing but cascading turbos in order to satisfy EPA. It will take 5 seconds to leave the stop light since one will have to wait for all the turbos to spin up. So here we will have 0.25 liter engines doing a massive turbo whine.
 
I change oil and filter twice a year regardless of mileage. That's just me. I use a calendar. The first of April, and again on the first of October. Am I changing it too often? Perhaps. But that's another argument for another day. I mentioned in my original post I don't trust the meter. And I told you why.
But if you took the time to understand how the OLM operates, even if its usefulness for your situation is limited due to how rarely you operate the vehicle, you wouldn't distrust it (or shouldn't). As it stands, you are changing the oil twice as frequently as required, despite your own admission that the operating conditions are basically ideal.
And yes, I read the manual where it states you should not go more than 12 months without changing the oil, regardless of the mileage. I said I didn't trust the meter. To which you responded that, "I don't understand the technical basis for how they operate".
But you don't change it every 12 months, you just said you change it every 6 months, despite not even running out the OLM in 12 months. The 12 month limit is a manufacturer's CYA so that:
A) The vehicle gets into the shop and onto a hoist at least once every 12 months
B) You don't have Fred Flinstone never changing the oil in 5 years because it sits, which can have impacts on the oil that cannot be accounted for via the OLM's algorithms.
And called me an, "an overtly paranoid luddite that nobody should be taking seriously".
Because you don't understand, nor want to understand, how they work; you have absolutely zero interest in understanding the technical aspects (hence: luddite) and have stated, clearly, that you don't trust it despite not understanding it (paranoid).

You also have no problem barging into threads, be it this one, or any of the EV ones where technical discussions are taking place, and making bold statements, calling people or ideas stupid, and generally just being incredibly unpleasant, a trait which you seem quite proud of, as well as relishing in the reactions you get from this behaviour.
Well if these things are so "technical" and sophisticated, and take so much into account, they should run to zero % at least every 12 months, regardless of the mileage on the odometer.
Some of them do. Some of them have a calendar component to them (I believe the more recent GM ones) that take into account not only operating conditions, but actual calendar time (not just hours).

Many (most?) of them however, don't have a calendar. They count engine hours, engine temperature, oil temperature, idle time, operating profile, load...etc and this all gets parsed and produces the degradation profile that the counter follows. It is this type that the caveat in the manual is included for, about the 12 month limit for the reasons I've mentioned, which is specified regardless of how good of condition the lubricant is in, and its suitability for continued use. As I noted above, it's a CYA for the manufacturer, but also a reasonableness thing. Even if the operating conditions don't qualify as having suitably degraded the lubricant to warrant changing, once a sufficient amount of time has passed, this presents a question regarding the current state of the lubricant that can't be answered without actual analysis, and since they aren't going to tell you to get a UOA, it's easier to just mandate a change, particularly when coupled with the earlier reasons.
Mine has gone to zero exactly TWICE in 8 YEARS. (I reset it when it did)..... Again it doesn't take a master mechanic to understand you should change your oil more than twice in 8 years of driving, per the highly technical and sophisticated oil change meter.
Again, your IOLM doesn't have a calendar. It has no idea that you only drive 20 miles to church every 3 months, it just knows that the conditions you do provide, including the few hours a years that you do operate the vehicle, are not sufficiently bad to mandate a change based on its calculations.
Yet that is exactly what the meter has told me. Yeah, it's laughable. But what if some woman who doesn't know cars from beans trusted it? She would have an engine full of sludge based on what the B.S. oil change meter told her.
With your driving profile and operating conditions, which are necessary to create this situation? Doubtful. While 4 years might seem nutty long, your conditions are essentially ideal (otherwise you'd be running down the IOLM faster). But, again, she's the reason the caveat is in the manual, so that the vehicle at least gets inspected once every 12 months.
Now, is my meter "broken"? I don't think so. This is the way they operate. I drive my car very little. I drive in a warm, desert climate with very little humidity, and my oil reaches 200 F+ most every time the car is driven.

But none of this changes the fact the super sophisticated and technical oil meter, that I just cannot grasp the operation of, is full of crap.
Per your own admission, your driving profile is "ideal". You aren't starting and idling it when it's -30C, you aren't short-tripping it. You aren't operating it in a manner, conditions, or location that would produce sludge (which requires moisture).

As I said earlier, your IOLM doesn't have a calendar, it doesn't know it takes you 4 years of doing this to satisfy the change requirement of the algorithm. That doesn't make it full of crap, it doesn't make it broken, the lack of a calendar is why there's the 12 month limit and if you were to in fact get your oil analyzed after running it for 12 months, I fully expect that the analysis would show that it is suitable for continued use, regardless of that stipulation.
 
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Again, your IOLM doesn't have a calendar. It has no idea that you only drive 20 miles to church every 3 months, it just knows that the conditions you do provide, including the few hours a years that you do operate the vehicle, are not sufficiently bad to mandate a change based on its calculations.

With your driving profile and operating conditions, which are necessary to create this situation? Doubtful. While 4 years might seem nutty long, your conditions are essentially ideal (otherwise you'd be running down the IOLM faster). But, again, she's the reason the caveat is in the manual, so that the vehicle at least gets inspected once every 12 months.

Per your own admission, your driving profile is "ideal". You aren't starting and idling it when it's -30C, you aren't short-tripping it. You aren't operating it in a manner, conditions, or location that would produce sludge (which requires moisture).

As I said earlier, your IOLM doesn't have a calendar,it doesn't know it takes you 4 years of doing this to satisfy the change requirement of the algorithm. That doesn't make it full of crap, it doesn't make it broken, the lack of a calendar is why there's the 12 month limit and if you were to in fact get your oil analyzed after running it for 12 months, I fully expect that the analysis would show that it is suitable for continued use, regardless of that stipulation.
You waste time typing all of that malarkey, instead of simply admitting that it was stupid on steroids not to put a clock on the thing that would time out every 12 months?

Here is a Casio that does it all for under $40 bucks...... But Jeep's oil meter is so "technically superior", they can't build it into a $50K vehicle. :rolleyes:

 
You waste time typing all of that malarkey, instead of simply admitting that it was stupid on steroids not to put a clock on the thing that would time out every 12 months?

Here is a Casio that does it all for under $40 bucks...... But Jeep's oil meter is so "technically superior", they can't build it into a $50K vehicle. :rolleyes:

In fine form as always.

Enjoy your weekend, I'm out.
 
The last vehicle I had that had the OLM was a 2010 Ford Escape (what a pig). The book said 7.5k miles or six months. Well, at 6 months the vehicle had 3k miles and the OLM went off. So, I guess it did have calendar!
 
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