Anyone own a newer Si curious about them

Which should show you how much they know. Those claims likely come from the tuners themselves and people simply keep repeating it. It does sell tunes though, maybe even some placebo improvements too.
I mean there is solid evidence that Subaru runs them pretty lean for emissions reasons.
 
My kid bought a BRZ first when the new model came out, and he loved it. Over time, guys on the BRZ/Toyota forum complained about bottom end oiling issues. There is/was a big snafu over the viability of the oiling system to survive spirited driving such as track days. And the OEM's were not inclined to warranty engine problems that occurred on track. I do not know all the particulars, but all the chatter was enough such that my kid sold the car.

Regarding the Si, the 1.5T is not without its detractors. Blown head gaskets seem to be the main issue. Interestingly, the Civic's seem to have much less problems than the Accords. There are tons of guys running a tune with the Si's, and most report good durability, but in my opinion, you are playing with fire when using pressures above 20psi.
 
I mean there is solid evidence that Subaru runs them pretty lean for emissions reasons.
Running lean produces a lot of NOx, they certainly do not lean for emissions. If anything they run them rich for emissions. So that claim right there shows lack of general knowledge.

The running lean is for fuel economy and is likely done in certain operating conditions and not all the time. The parameters that have to be met are likely only known to the Subaru engineers and the tuners are pretty much guessing with their tunes.

You simply are taking your chances.
 
Maybe it just that floppy, flex-y and ring-y split crankpin design other than robust shared as in a V engine.

FB crank.jpg
 
Running lean produces a lot of NOx, they certainly do not lean for emissions. If anything they run them rich for emissions.

The running lean is for fuel economy and is likely done in certain operating conditions and not all the time. The parameters that have to be met are likely only known to the Subaru engineers and the tuners are pretty much guessing with their tunes.
It's all for cafe standards. Which encompasses fuel economy and emissions. Either way there is strong strong evidence that they run lean and it's bad for them. They are very sensitive to detonation. The older ej is even worse. (Hence the ringland failures )
I had spark knock at 22k miles changed my plugs and it went away and has been perfect, data log backs that up as well. They're stupid sensitive cars and they don't like not being 100% spot on.
Either way this is supposed to be about the si not the WRX. I have a wrx at my shop right now that has 30k on the engine with a spun rod bearing..... completely stock. 🤷‍♂️ They are definitely hit and miss.
 
Good luck I could only drive my wife's car for a short stint, I find they get irritating for a few reasons.
We have had many Impreza variants over three decades.

I liked the 1996 premium impreza wagon 2.2L 5 speed the best
 
That makes no sense whatsoever.

Split crankpins designs like this traditionally have limited power density and RPM capabilities.**

It's saving grace may be it's length.

I redesigned that crank in my head a few times to add a bit of bearing width and share at least one throw.
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I could add that kids side-stepping the clutch at 5000 rpm on this little AWD bucket doesn't add to longevity.
Just throwing it out there. I don't build, race or tune this engine.
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**I know GNX Buick 6 - but pin offset is less severe

- edited for clarity and to be nicer 11MAY24_1112hrs
 
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It has 24k miles on it. The dealer has been less than helpful. They basically said keep it above 1/4 tank of fuel, they didn't hear the dash rattle and to let the car warm up completely before driving it. The advisor said its just how they are. I got it tuned trying to fix that issues but it didn't the tuner said there is open loop strategy that they cannot control that is the cause for the running issue. Who knows how true that really is but the guy did seem pretty knowledgeable.
Go to a different dealer?
 
Might be worth checking them on dealerrater.com and if they are good giving them a shot. If they can correct everything under warranty if may be worth the drive.
It's possible it could be however I own a repair shop and am a tech by trade. What I have learned is the ecm has this logic built into it to dump a ton of fuel when cold. They run -25 or so fuel trims when warming up. It's part of why they idle so high when first started. It does this no matter the temp outside but when it's cold out and it does it, the air fuel mixture becomes enough off to cause driveability concerns. Apparently my generation is most known for this issue. Subaru doesn't have a fix for it neither does anyone else really. I could go to more than one dealer but I already know the outcome given the info the dealer has available. Also it's warm now so they won't detect an issue and will say "npf" no problem found.
I've accepted they are just incredibly cantankerous and sensitive. Fun as hell when they're right though.
 
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Likely to prevent cold start and run misfire that would cause more emissions. I can't imagine it being more severe than necessary.

Is not neg trim narrow inj pulse width to correct a rich lambda sense condition? And don't these cars use a wideband Lambda sensing?
I would hazard these engines do not run open loop very long with the typical TF sensor heating.

I recall the old EJ 253 Zero PZEV would shut of fuel to random cylinder and run at high idle to pump air into exhaust
They ran like they were misfiring and shake at cold start, but a tap on the throttle - like doing a choke kick down would usually start fueling it on all 4 cyl.

I would get rid of any aftermarket open element CAI if you added one.
 
Likely to prevent cold start and run misfire that would cause more emissions. I can't imagine it being more severe than necessary.

Is not neg trim narrow inj pulse width to correct a rich lambda sense condition? And don't these cars use a wideband Lambda sensing?
I would hazard these engines do not run open loop very long with the typical TF sensor heating.

I recall the old EJ 253 Zero PZEV would shut of fuel to random cylinder and run at high idle to pump air into exhaust
They ran like they were misfiring and shake at cold start, but a tap on the throttle - like doing a choke kick down would usually start fueling it on all 4 cyl.

I would get rid of any aftermarket open element CAI if you added one.
Tried it stock and modded same deal exactly. It high idles for several minutes before coming down at least 3 minutes sometimes more. When it's cold out it's definitely more.
 
!!!!

So.

Sometimes I do this.

I want a new car. Something catches my eye. And I’ll magnify an “issue” with my current one which builds the case for a replacement. I won’t lie. Yet another owner, just a normal owner, wouldn’t worry about it, and would absent-mindedly drive it 10 years or more just fine. They might add oil. They might not. It might go to the dealer for repair a few times, and they pay, might gripe or not, and at some point buy something else.

These posts speak to me of “I’m done with this and want something else.” Truly. And I say that in full honesty of what has happened for me, many times.

If the worry of an oiling issue worries you, save the money for the repair and drive the car. If you’re bored with it, buy something else. If you are expecting the car to me the rock-solid high-performance anvil that represents who you are to the invisible audience, you can do what I did and make about 9 laps around this track. (It goes in a circle). You’ll find yourself there again, and it’s ok. We learn stuff.

I personally love the civic. It’s fun to drive, and unmodded will likely be less “quirky” than a Subaru. That is, until we try to make it special…. Anything we turn into an idol, we will one day turn against when it doesn’t fulfill us.

I’ve been here, many times.
 
!!!!

So.

Sometimes I do this.

I want a new car. Something catches my eye. And I’ll magnify an “issue” with my current one which builds the case for a replacement. I won’t lie. Yet another owner, just a normal owner, wouldn’t worry about it, and would absent-mindedly drive it 10 years or more just fine. They might add oil. They might not. It might go to the dealer for repair a few times, and they pay, might gripe or not, and at some point buy something else.

These posts speak to me of “I’m done with this and want something else.” Truly. And I say that in full honesty of what has happened for me, many times.

If the worry of an oiling issue worries you, save the money for the repair and drive the car. If you’re bored with it, buy something else. If you are expecting the car to me the rock-solid high-performance anvil that represents who you are to the invisible audience, you can do what I did and make about 9 laps around this track. (It goes in a circle). You’ll find yourself there again, and it’s ok. We learn stuff.

I personally love the civic. It’s fun to drive, and unmodded will likely be less “quirky” than a Subaru. That is, until we try to make it special…. Anything we turn into an idol, we will one day turn against when it doesn’t fulfill us.

I’ve been here, many times.
I mean I've done this in the past but this time I'm not. Genuinely hate be nervous of hurting it Everytime I drive it. I hate worrying about it. Worrying and being paranoid makes it less fun for sure. Also the crazy expense of it's issues is slightly nerve-wracking to.
 
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