Anyone do an oil change on a '09 V6 Toyota Rav4?

[deven]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

 Originally Posted By: INDYMAC

Once you have done it, it is really simple and not that messy. I asked the dealer how they deal with the over-torqued drain plug and they said they don't. They just loosen the canister and let it drain like I do. Some day I plan to get it out with a vice, but I'm not worried about it for now. It's actually more convenient to loosen the whole canister with my drive wrench than using the oil wrench (since the drain plug won't turn). There doesn't appear to be any need to re-torque the canister when finished either. The face plate secures very flush to the engine by hand, and doesn't seem like it will torque anymore. It feels like you could damage something if you tried to get it tighter. I found the filter to look brand new at 600 miles with just the OEM fill. After 1400 more miles with ARX, the filter element was very dark and had quite a bit of grit and dirt in the pleats. I'm looking forward to seeing what I have when the ODO turns 5K in another month. I really like this feature. I was always to lazy to cut open the filters on my G35, Tundra, and S2000. Now there's no excuse for not examining what's getting trapped in there for me.

I agree about the procedures and the relative ease. I also agree that it is certainly easier to look at the element (but I've never seen anything in ours, and I have a cutter anyway...). Again, I'm most concerned about the needless presence of those O-rings. They seem like a dangerous vulnerability to me. When was the last time you saw this with a spin-on? (From the linked thread) Other than easily viewing the element, what does this Rube Goldberg contraption add over a simple spin-on?

It has all to do about going green and not wasting metal and the oil that stays in the spin-on filter that is discarded.

 

[StevieC]

 Originally Posted By: The Critic

I'm glad it worked out well, but you forgot that a tire rotation is part of the 5000 mile service.

Did that too!

 

[Amkeer]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

 Originally Posted By: INDYMAC

Once you have done it, it is really simple and not that messy. I asked the dealer how they deal with the over-torqued drain plug and they said they don't. They just loosen the canister and let it drain like I do. Some day I plan to get it out with a vice, but I'm not worried about it for now. It's actually more convenient to loosen the whole canister with my drive wrench than using the oil wrench (since the drain plug won't turn). There doesn't appear to be any need to re-torque the canister when finished either. The face plate secures very flush to the engine by hand, and doesn't seem like it will torque anymore. It feels like you could damage something if you tried to get it tighter. I found the filter to look brand new at 600 miles with just the OEM fill. After 1400 more miles with ARX, the filter element was very dark and had quite a bit of grit and dirt in the pleats. I'm looking forward to seeing what I have when the ODO turns 5K in another month. I really like this feature. I was always to lazy to cut open the filters on my G35, Tundra, and S2000. Now there's no excuse for not examining what's getting trapped in there for me.

I agree about the procedures and the relative ease. I also agree that it is certainly easier to look at the element (but I've never seen anything in ours, and I have a cutter anyway...). Again, I'm most concerned about the needless presence of those O-rings. They seem like a dangerous vulnerability to me. When was the last time you saw this with a spin-on? (From the linked thread) Other than easily viewing the element, what does this Rube Goldberg contraption add over a simple spin-on?

That looks like a cheap oil filter with the orange o-ring. Not worth the dollar or so savings to seize an engine. Clearly it appears the rubber ring snapped causing all the oil to leak out, am I correct in this? My Tundra has the cartridge filter. I just loosen the housing and let the oil drip to the pan. Then completely remove the filter dumping the rest in the pan. Easy and no mess. The worst of the job for me, is the rock guard that I have to remove to change the filter.

 

[Samilcar]

 Originally Posted By: Amkeer

That looks like a cheap oil filter with the orange o-ring. Not worth the dollar or so savings to seize an engine. Clearly it appears the rubber ring snapped causing all the oil to leak out, am I correct in this?

IIRC, the rubber O-ring was damaged by being pinched when the canister was being screwed back in after the filter change. I'm not sure if it wasn't installed completely into its proper groove, or not properly coated with oil before being installed or what. I do remember that it caused an almost instantaneous loss of all engine oil onto the garage floor after the engine was first started after the oil change.

 

[Nickdfresh]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

... Other than easily viewing the element, what does this Rube Goldberg contraption add over a simple spin-on?

The advantage is that it makes people go back to the dealer and use "genuine parts" for their oil changes?

 

[Nickdfresh]

 Originally Posted By: deven

... It has all to do about going green and not wasting metal and the oil that stays in the spin-on filter that is discarded.

That's the same spiel Mazda gives and there may be something to that, I dunno... But oil filters CAN be crushed and recycled and the oil separated. A really, really old guy used to go around to different oil change places and garages in the Buffalo, NY area during the 1990s. He must have been in his 80s and loaded stuff up on his pickup truck (often times alone, but I would help him if I was around). He found it kept him busy and supplemented his retirement. I believe he sold the used oil to Noco Oil and took the rest to a smelting facility and did okay. He died probably around 1997...

 

[StevieC]

Sure anything "can" be recycled, but most people don't and just discard it. Toyota figures this is the smart environmental thing to do. It's a part of them making their vehicles more environmentally responsible and using the most amount of recycled materials and also allowing the vehicles materials to be recycled at the end of their life cycles. They also recycle at their car production plants and don't offer anything in their cafeteria if it's not recyclable. (Brother used to work for them here in Canada)

 

[smithph]

Read this link as it is a fine write up on changing the filter. http://members.cox.net/n0v8or/avalon_oil_change.pdf Also get a Purolator filter for that engine # L25608. It comes with a screw in drain plug adapter which makes draining the oil filter assembly a LOT easier than the push on adapter. Those snap in adapters are a PITA. The Purolater screw in ones give you a lot better control over the oil flow. I have tried several different oils in that engine and all performed well so your M1 should do fine. Any ILSAC GF–4 spec oil in 5W-20 or 5W-30 should do fine. I found thicker is better for the cold engine start noise (piston slap) that some of those Toyota 3.5's are known for, including mine. GC 0w-30 and RTS 5w-40 seems to tame mine the best.

 

[Nickdfresh]

 Originally Posted By: StevieC

... They also recycle at their car production plants and don't offer anything in their cafeteria if it's not recyclable. (Brother used to work for them here in Canada)

They make their staff eat old oil filters?

 

[PT1]

My wifes Lexus ES350 has the same engine and is speced for 5w30. So it gets PP 5w30 and I use the factory filter element due to warranty. I only remove the whole canister and simply dump it into the catch pan. The drain plug in the canster is silly and just extra work so I torqued mine on and now just use a 3/8 ratchet to remove the whole canister. Use a toothpick to remove the o=ring so you don't scratch the canister or it will leak. Just clean off the canister, oil the new o-ring and screw back on and snug lightly. No need to torque it back on as it seats fine. Very easy oil changes with the canister.

 

[Ed_T]

The new Toyo 2.5? liter 4cyl is using the "canister". I like the spinon on my 07 4cyl. Quick.

 

[ekpolk]

I'd just like to add one more related question for thought: for those who are just leaving the little drain cap on the end of the canister, and not changing it, how many times are you going to do it? That O-ring is designed to last one OCI. Of course, I don't think that it's going to turn to dust automatically after two or three changes. On the other hand, a nice, neat spin-on doesn't have that built-in leak spot on its end... Having a dog in this fight myself, and a stuck drain cap, I'd really like to know how long is safe. My vote is for a spin-on. . .

 

[INDYMAC]

Seeing as how the RAV4 is my first canister type oil filter, I posed the same question to the techs and sevice manager at my dealership after I found the drain plug to be over-torqued. They were honest and told me that most were stuck, but they never bothered with it anyways and have never seen an OEM installed drain plug O-ring fail (leak) yet. I know that's a weak data point, but it's all I have so far. Like I said earlier, I will eventually put the canister in a vice and break the plug loose, maybe on the next oil change. My vote for ease of removal and cleanliness would be: 1. S2000 horizontally monted spin-on. 2. RAV4 canister. 3. G35 horizontally mounted spin-on. 4. Tundra V-8 horizontally mounted spin-on. The S2000 is unbelievably clean and easy to remove from above (only a knapkin or paper towel required to be held underneath). The Tundra and G35 burp a lot of oil when removed. Skid plates need to be removed to avoid a big lingering mess.

 

[Amkeer]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

I'd just like to add one more related question for thought: for those who are just leaving the little drain cap on the end of the canister, and not changing it, how many times are you going to do it? That O-ring is designed to last one OCI. Of course, I don't think that it's going to turn to dust automatically after two or three changes. On the other hand, a nice, neat spin-on doesn't have that built-in leak spot on its end... Having a dog in this fight myself, and a stuck drain cap, I'd really like to know how long is safe. My vote is for a spin-on. . .

Ek, Contemplated the question you asked many times, before you asked it. I will keep an eye on the o-ring, and anticipate changing it every 20,000 miles, or every fourth change. It seems safer to leave it in place. Like you I am not fond of two areas of a filter that could potentially leak instead of one.

 

[StevieC]

As I found when I did the change, it's pretty easy and if you take your time and lube up the O-ring, and put the canister back on the engine slowly and evenly it will seal without issue.

 

[Cicero]

Geeze! Did you guys try a breaker bar on those stuck 3/8 plugs? Only have a short handle ratchet or what? But...I'll find out here soon myself and IF mine is "stuck" like yours I'll drive over to the dealership and demand they "loosen" it for me...make them live up to thier "LEXUS EXPERIENCE" reputation. I bought a NAPA/WIXX filter element today to do this first OCI at 1,400m on wife's new ES350 and cannot believe I'm getting an improper fitting filter by NOT using OEM TOYOTA! I'm also installing a Fumoto valve 'cause I love these things. Thanks for the "Purolator screw-on plug" tip, SMITHPH, I'm off to check that out....and this cartidge filter change doesn't look difficult at all compared to changing filters on a '06-on Civic Si!!! THAT is serious PITA. Anyway, at least I can examine filters without cutting cans. Everything has its pro's and cons and I AM BITOG DOUBLE TOUGH and KNOW I can deal with funny Toyota filters.

 

[mozart]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

My wife's Avalon, which is a very nice car in almost all ways, has the same engine, and same oil filter setup. The fly in this car's ointment is that downright evil oil filter setup. I will address your questions in order.

 Quote:

1) How easy/hard is it to do one of these Toyota cartridge filters on this engine.

It's not, it's a total PITA. There are TWO openings, not one, potintially doubling the opportunity for leaks. There's a little cap on the end of the housing you must undo, which allows access to a little port that you plug a little spigot affair into. It pre-drains the housing for clean removal. The spigot is the white thing that comes in the filter element box. Then you open the main housing to switch filter elements. Putting the whole thing back together requires that you carefully install two floppy o-rings, and apply different torque for the housing and cap. Don't even think about going to an Iffy-Boob. As of our last change, the little cap wouldn't come off at all. I just loosened the main housing, like any other filter, and removed it into a plastic bag.

 Quote:

2) Anything special I should know or think of for the first time?

Oh yeah -- be careful of handling the housing the first time. It's nice cast aluminum, but the first time, I found it had burrs on it, and ended up with a painful metal splinter. After rubbing it down with a piece of leather, it seems burr free now, but I'd still just wear gloves to be safe and comfortable.

 Quote:

3) Thoughts on Oil choice for this engine (No M1 bashing please)

I've used GC and now, PP 5w-20, but alas no UOA yet. On a subjective level, no discernable differences. Both sounded great, no bad noises on start, etc. Our engine seemed to darken both pretty quickly. The one noticeable difference: mileage. Per the computer, the car is doing 2-3 mpgs better on the 20 wt than it did on the much heavier GC. No real surprise there, I suppose.

 Quote:

4) How many litres/quarts does this engine take? (I know I can look in the manual, but in case anyone already knows)

As already stated, it is a 6.5 qt fill.

 Quote:

5) Anything else you can offer.

Yes. Somewhere on the internet, before we owned a 2GR-powered car and I cared about it, I saw someone selling a conversion kit to allow the use of a normal, disposable spin-on filter. But I can't find it now. I'm looking for one, and urge you to do so also. If you find it, pleeeease let me know.

Interesting. I found the cartridge style nice actually. I was able to see the condition of the filter element. Also, the mechanics of the filter are simple, hence no talk about valves being better on one brand etc. The predrain was nice... very little drip over other components. I thought "what the heck" the first time I saw the filter housing under the RAV4... now I like it. To each his own

 

[ekpolk]

 Originally Posted By: mozart

... Interesting. I found the cartridge style nice actually. I was able to see the condition of the filter element. Also, the mechanics of the filter are simple, hence no talk about valves being better on one brand etc. The predrain was nice... very little drip over other components. I thought "what the heck" the first time I saw the filter housing under the RAV4... now I like it. To each his own

I suppose I'm repeating myself, but let me restate. First, the predrain is nice -- until you find that the little cap will no longer open. Then you have to put it in a vice, or leave it, and wonder how long that one-use O-ring will last. And, as with the main housing, you have to properly position and be careful not to damage the ring while torque-ing down (see torn ring photo, above). Also, the housing has two potential sources of leaks, vice one with a can. There is, alas, concern about one brand vs another, as noted above in this thread already. I'm also baffled in that Toyota itself has two different element designs, one, as pictured above, has the pleats cemented out to the periphery of the element. The other is cemented only around the core. Then there are the aftermarket element designs, which some believe are not compatible. If I want to look at the condition of the element, I can whip out my pipe cutter (owned for this purpose) and slice a can open in about two minutes. Yes, to each his own -- and I'll take a spin-on, thanks.

 

[crinkles]

 Originally Posted By: ekpolk

Yes, to each his own -- and I'll take a spin-on, thanks.

+1... why I am not in the market for a new Toyota V6 or Corolla 1.8 with these finicky filters.

 

[Tonystewart]

My wife's 06 Avalon Limited has 62k on it without any issues with the filter or housing. I have never changed the predrain o ring. I like the simplicity with nothing but a paper element to dispose of. In south florida I run 5w50 castrol syntec 6.5 qts. Or 5 qts 5/30 Mobil 1 & 1.5 qts of 15w50 Mobil 1.