Anyone do an oil change on a '09 V6 Toyota Rav4?

[deven]

I think epolk covered it pretty much. I do the oil change on my Dads Lexus ES350 and if I am not mistaken it has the same engine in that too. Epolk is spot on, its is a PITA to do an oil change due to the cartridge filter with the 2 O rings. To be honest I dont even use the spigot or whatever its called. I wash the filter housing anyway. One thing I have learned though is to use the OEM cartridge filter. I have heard that the after market ones sometimes are not the same height and even though to the naked eye it looks the same, the cap can twist and tear the filter. If you want a definitive answer go to http://www.toyotanation.com Its a great site and very knowlegdeable members.

 

[ekpolk]

 Originally Posted By: oilslick44

Steve, go here. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1223853

Oh yeah, I should have added: make sure you lube up the o-rings really well before you screw anything back on. The first time around, I could feel them sticking, and I assume that's what happened to the OP in the linked thread. Just like a normal filter, except there's no way to actually see that there's a problem. Be very careful re-attaching the filter housing, start it while it's still up, and check carefully for leaks.

 

[VenzaTRD]

SteveC----PM me with your email. I have found a Avalon Oil change .pdf file with pics that shows you what to do. I am a newbie here as well on toyotanation.com but I believe the avalon, your friends Rav 4 and my Venza ALL have the same engine.--VenzaTRD

 

[daman]

 Originally Posted By: VenzaTRD

SteveC----PM me with your email. I have found a Avalon Oil change .pdf file with pics that shows you what to do. I am a newbie here as well on toyotanation.com but I believe the avalon, your friends Rav 4 and my Venza ALL have the same engine.--VenzaTRD

What do you run in yours 5w20 or 30??

 

[VenzaTRD]

Daman---I'm still on factory fill---only 1300 miles on her. I'm trying to decide when to do my first oil change and am leaning towards M1 myself. I am thinking of doing a 2000 mile oil/filter change and switching to M1 5w-30 (the weight Toyota recommends). Then I would do another change at 5K and be on a 5K schedule from there on out with M1. Toyota recommends 5k OCI and 5K OCIs are a lot easier to keep up with...5, 10, 15, 20 etc. I guess my 2K short change Oil change is gonna be for peace of mind than anything else to get out any shavings or [censored] that comes from a new engine breaking in.---VenzaTRD

 

[daman]

Your a man with a plan,sounds good!

 

[ekpolk]

 Originally Posted By: VenzaTRD

Daman---I'm still on factory fill---only 1300 miles on her. I'm trying to decide when to do my first oil change and am leaning towards M1 myself. I am thinking of doing a 2000 mile oil/filter change and switching to M1 5w-30 (the weight Toyota recommends). Then I would do another change at 5K and be on a 5K schedule from there on out with M1. Toyota recommends 5k OCI and 5K OCIs are a lot easier to keep up with...5, 10, 15, 20 etc. I guess my 2K short change Oil change is gonna be for peace of mind than anything else to get out any shavings or [censored] that comes from a new engine breaking in.---VenzaTRD

Venza: Not to digress too badly, but you really can't say, without qualification, exactly what oil Toyota presently recommends for a car with a GR series engine. Click here to see Toyota's horrendously ambiguous TSB issued a couple years ago when they first started the shift to 20 wt oils. On its face, the TSB applies only to 06 and 07 Models, but in several places, it clearly implies that the change will apply for future model years. About the only unambiguous part is that the four GR series engines are intended to be changed to 20 wt oil. But then, nobody bothered to get their act together concerning language in owner's manuals or on the top of the oil filler caps. BTW, most of the debate and argument surrounding this TSB specifically (and the issue generally) concerns "retroactivity". A couple years back, many were taking this TSB to mean they could use 20 wt oils in listed engines from years prior to 06. In most cases, they probably could, but my argument has always been that, explicitly on its face, it applies only to 06 and 07 models (but with language suggesting application in the future). Will an 05 car automatically grenade itself if fed a 20 wt? Probably not, but why play around? All this leaves me with two conclusions. First, it's hard to say for sure what Toyota really "recommends" for most of it's current cars. Second, it's hard to believe that Toyota is really making this "issue" a real priority.

 

[StevieC]

Thanks Everyone! I will let you know how it goes tomorrow and post pictures if I get a chance for anyone else that has to go through this.

 

[INDYMAC]

I have a 2009 RAV4 V-6 and have changed the oil twice already (600 and 2000 miles). I wish all my cars were this easy and I really like the cartridge filter for easy observance. Although the TSB says you can use some 20wt oils, the manual says 5W-30 or 10W-30 in a pinch. I've been using 5W-30 Valvoline with 3 ozs of ARX for break-in. You don't have to remove the skid plate. Everything is very accessable without lifting. A couple of lessons learned: 1. The little drain plug plug on the filter canister may not loosen with the 3/8" drive (overtorqued from factory). This is no big deal. It's only there to drain some oil before loosening the canister itself. Just loosen the canister itself slowly (with 65mm oil wrench) and it will drain from around the circumference of the canister (you'll get some on your hand so be prepared). Once the canister is removed, you just take the filter element out and replace it with the new filter element and O-ring. Observe the position of the old O-ring and just replace it in the same position with-out any twisting. If you do happen to get the little drain plug out (either with the 3/8" drive or a vice), don't forget to replace the small O-ring too. I haven't bothered with this drain plug yet. 2. The manual calls for 6.4 quarts on a oil and filter change. 6.4 quarts will overfill on the dipstick about 1/4" though. I would recommend starting with 6.0 quarts and then slowly top off. The fresh oil is tough to see on the dipstick though. Here's a link to a more thorough discussion on the subject: http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4195 I'm confident that you will consider this easy when you are done. Have fun and good luck!

 

[Samilcar]

 Originally Posted By: INDYMAC

The manual calls for 6.4 quarts on a oil and filter change. 6.4 quarts will overfill on the dipstick about 1/4" though. I would recommend starting with 6.0 quarts and then slowly top off.

I have this same engine and it does exactly the same thing. 6.0 quarts brings the oil level exactly to the full line on the dipstick.

 

[StevieC]

Thanks INDYMAC for sharing your experience. Samilcar thanks for confirming the 6.0 quarts along with INDYMAC. I will fill with 6 Quarts run the engine to fill the filter and check for leaks and then top off as needed. I think I'm going to just remove the housing and let it drip down the sides into a pan and then just clean up the housing and remove/replace the filter media. I think this is a better idea then frigging around with a little drain cap and plastic drain nozzle thing. A little oil never hurt me or my driveway. I will bring my Digital Camera outside and see if I can snap some pics for everyone else on the board.

 

[ekpolk]

 Originally Posted By: INDYMAC

. . . I'm confident that you will consider this easy when you are done. Have fun and good luck!

Well, how he ends up feeling about it is up to him. I'm equally confident that he will see that a spin-on would have been a cleaner and simpler solution. Have you ever found anything in your GR's element? In four changes, I've seen zip. I too have given up on bothering with the "little cap" but I wonder how long its O-ring will last, given that Toyota presumably designed and spec-ed it with the assumption it would be changed out at every change. Also consider the irony of oil filters within the GR family. The 4.0L 1GR, found in a variety of the trucks, has the best filter setup I've ever seen. It's a spin-on that sits up neatly on a little tray in the driver's front corner of the engine room, about where a lot of cars have the battery. Assuming it's not overtorqued, you can change it by hand, while wearing a suit and tie. With the room underneath in the trucks, you can do the job with no lift and nothing more than a wrench to undo the plug. Add a Fumoto, and it's a no tool job. In the 2GR Avalon, you must lift the car, and then from the bottom, hassle with the canister and it's O-rings. I really don't see ANY advantage to a setup that requires that you carefully position O-rings every time you change oil, when by contrast, a spin-on has the sealing ring pre-positioned, and allows you to visually, and by feel, confirm that the seal is intact. You can NOT confirm seal integrity with the canister. That linked thread, above, shows how easy it is to damage the O-ring, with the obvious attendant danger.

 

[ekpolk]

 Originally Posted By: Samilcar

 Originally Posted By: INDYMAC

The manual calls for 6.4 quarts on a oil and filter change. 6.4 quarts will overfill on the dipstick about 1/4" though. I would recommend starting with 6.0 quarts and then slowly top off.

I have this same engine and it does exactly the same thing. 6.0 quarts brings the oil level exactly to the full line on the dipstick.

I'll defer to the RAV owners on this point, but in the Avalon installation, the engine swallows up all of the 6.5 qts to bring it up to full.

 

[INDYMAC]

Once you have done it, it is really simple and not that messy. I asked the dealer how they deal with the over-torqued drain plug and they said they don't. They just loosen the canister and let it drain like I do. Some day I plan to get it out with a vice, but I'm not worried about it for now. It's actually more convenient to loosen the whole canister with my drive wrench than using the oil wrench (since the drain plug won't turn). There doesn't appear to be any need to re-torque the canister when finished either. The face plate secures very flush to the engine by hand, and doesn't seem like it will torque anymore. It feels like you could damage something if you tried to get it tighter. I found the filter to look brand new at 600 miles with just the OEM fill. After 1400 more miles with ARX, the filter element was very dark and had quite a bit of grit and dirt in the pleats. I'm looking forward to seeing what I have when the ODO turns 5K in another month. I really like this feature. I was always to lazy to cut open the filters on my G35, Tundra, and S2000. Now there's no excuse for not examining what's getting trapped in there for me.

 

[TLMjared]

My experience with this engine is that the canister cap is a pain to get off without the right tool, but I rarely drain the cap before pulling filter, its more messy but takes less time. Replacing those rubber o rings is very important to prevent leaks!

 

[StevieC]

Well I did it about a half an hour ago... What an easy to do oil change! (not being sarcastic) So I jacked it up, drained the oil pan (14mm wrench), put the plug back in after it was super empty. (because I'm anal) Then I tackled the filter element thingy... No need to remove any plastic cover or skid plat as it ends just before the filter housing. I used a hexagonal filter cup wrench to loosen the house until it started dripping. Then I removed it completely. I took out the old filter element. Cleaned the housing on the engine and the piece I removed. Changed the Big o-ring that goes on the removable housing with the new one that was well lubricated with engine oil. I put the new filter element in and screwed it back onto the engine nice, slowly and evenly so as to not disturb the O-Ring seal in any way. Once it was snug against the block I used the filter-cup tool to snug it further. I filled up the engine with Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 6 quarts and started the engine and let it run while I emptied the used oil into the waste container. Then I shut it down, checked for leaks and waited 5 minutes to check the oil level. All was dry and it took exaclty 6 quarts to get it to the full line. (was difficult to see the level too, multiple checks) Thanks everyone for your help... Sorry I didn't snap pictures... I was hurrying because it started to spit rain on me and I didn't want to get caught in it... I'm impressed how easy this was, but I can see how disastrous it could be if that outer O-Ring isn't put on just right and doesn't seal. I like not using the "drain" cap at the bottom. Yes it would make less of a mess, but who cares about some oil dripping down the side of the housing. Big deal! Steve

 

[ekpolk]

 Originally Posted By: INDYMAC

Once you have done it, it is really simple and not that messy. I asked the dealer how they deal with the over-torqued drain plug and they said they don't. They just loosen the canister and let it drain like I do. Some day I plan to get it out with a vice, but I'm not worried about it for now. It's actually more convenient to loosen the whole canister with my drive wrench than using the oil wrench (since the drain plug won't turn). There doesn't appear to be any need to re-torque the canister when finished either. The face plate secures very flush to the engine by hand, and doesn't seem like it will torque anymore. It feels like you could damage something if you tried to get it tighter. I found the filter to look brand new at 600 miles with just the OEM fill. After 1400 more miles with ARX, the filter element was very dark and had quite a bit of grit and dirt in the pleats. I'm looking forward to seeing what I have when the ODO turns 5K in another month. I really like this feature. I was always to lazy to cut open the filters on my G35, Tundra, and S2000. Now there's no excuse for not examining what's getting trapped in there for me.

I agree about the procedures and the relative ease. I also agree that it is certainly easier to look at the element (but I've never seen anything in ours, and I have a cutter anyway...). Again, I'm most concerned about the needless presence of those O-rings. They seem like a dangerous vulnerability to me. When was the last time you saw this with a spin-on? (From the linked thread) Other than easily viewing the element, what does this Rube Goldberg contraption add over a simple spin-on?

 

[INDYMAC]

Happy to hear things worked out well. I forgot to mention that there is a dark blue nylon type drain plug washer. It usually just stays stuck to the oil pan after you remove the drain plug, but it's good to verify that it didn't fall into the used oil pan. I think the PP 5W-30 was a good choice for your friend to try.

 

[The Critic]

I'm glad it worked out well, but you forgot that a tire rotation is part of the 5000 mile service.

 

[deven]

 Originally Posted By: The Critic

I'm glad it worked out well, but you forgot that a tire rotation is part of the 5000 mile service.

On a Rav4, you could easily do 10k without a tire rotation. If i remember correctly I don't think they have a negative camber.