IMO there has been a convergence of OCI's between domestics, euro, and asian brands. Consequently I don't expect the oils to have a significant performance difference when you're talking sub 3.5 hths product. Euro oils essentially occupy the 3.5 of higher HTHS but those oils will slowly start to go away over the next decade.
Any reason NOT to buy the Euro version?
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Ah yes. I dont know what i was looking at. Thank you
And an ACEA Sequence is usually the basis or starting point for those approvals.
Even before. 502/505 is a dual rating, based on A3/B4 - a dual rating.
I've been self educating on Euro oil differences since the Total Quarts clearance at AAP. This video helped me understand some. One thing he mentions is in Europe they can run Euro oil for very very long OCIs, but he would not recommend that in the US due to fuel quality. I havent googled the why on that yet, but curious on anyones thoughts. He starts talking about it around 8 minutes 30 seconds.
That video is from circa 2018 as the US had NOT moved to ULSG.
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Switched to PP Euro LX and engines like it.
VW 504/507 make oil 20k miles OCI oil, great wear protection, compatibility with other oils.
C2 makes it fuel conserving, sludge preventing and cleaning very well.
MB 229.52 makes it diesel engine compatible and LSPI mitigating (since 2018 I think).
VW 504/507 make oil 20k miles OCI oil, great wear protection, compatibility with other oils.
C2 makes it fuel conserving, sludge preventing and cleaning very well.
MB 229.52 makes it diesel engine compatible and LSPI mitigating (since 2018 I think).
You could have seen my comment above regarding your question if you hadn’t ignored me.
If I had to pick 1 oil that you could put in a BMW engine that is going to be run with the petal to the metal going up long mountainous terraines with high RPMS with engine temps at 240F for a prolonged period of severe service, I would choose the Castrol Edge Euro 5W-30 A3/B4 oil with the MB 229.5 and ACEA A3/B4 certification's (5 quart jug available at Walmart for about $28).
It has a high dose of phosphorous / zinc anti-wear additives.
Also if I owned a Ford Ecoboost twin turbo engine, I would also use this same oil.
The whole catalytic converter damage concern about phosphorous over 800ppm is a big over-reaction over nothing in my opinion.
Having slightly more anti-wear additives like phosphorous than the 800 ppm API SP limit is likely to have no effect whatsoever on the catalytic converter. If anything the extra phosphorous will prevent engine wear so you will burn less oil and have less phosphorous exposed to the catalytic converter.
It has a high dose of phosphorous / zinc anti-wear additives.
Also if I owned a Ford Ecoboost twin turbo engine, I would also use this same oil.
The whole catalytic converter damage concern about phosphorous over 800ppm is a big over-reaction over nothing in my opinion.
Having slightly more anti-wear additives like phosphorous than the 800 ppm API SP limit is likely to have no effect whatsoever on the catalytic converter. If anything the extra phosphorous will prevent engine wear so you will burn less oil and have less phosphorous exposed to the catalytic converter.
You know how it works, if something is repeated often enough it becomes fact. (I almost said Fox News) ASTM D892, foaming/settling applies to both light and heavy duty API service classifications. In addition pcmo’s have D6082 and HDEOs D6894. I found them at www.api.org
. Will keep my mouth shut with your Fox news comment or this will be locked in minutesDate a Norwegian or Russian girl, and then come back and post your own answer.
Try half German half Italian
I am now using Mobil 1 ESP, it is the 0W-30, since when I got it, that was the grade that came in a 5 quart jug. Now they have the 5W-30 ESP in a 5 quart jug. Give it a try, I like it, you will like it and buy more, or if you do not like it, you will buy something else.
Why buy a “EURO” oil when it’s clear you don’t even need it??? I’m lost now
He's probably talking about sulfer content in fuels which used to be an issue when American fuels were higher in sulfer. I believe the difference is much smaller if at all now. Personally I don't think Lubri-Moly is anything special and if I had to choose I'd use Mobil 1 or Castrol in a Euro vehicle.
Regarding the Total Quartz ....that thread was locked before I got to ask about the 2 jugs of 0w20 Ineo Extra that I picked up yesterday for $13.XX each when I went in to buy a spark plug for my lawn mower. They were sitting on the 'Clearance' rack and I couldn't resist. It says it's "recommended by Aston Martin for it's V12 Twin Turbo" so I'm sure it will work fine in my daughters Mazda 2.5 NA.
Does anybody think this oil is any 'stouter' than Mobil1 AFE 0w20, PP 0w20, Castrol Edge, Valvoline 0w20 and the rest of the 0w20 syns available at Walmart? Just wondering if the Euro ratings matter here?
Have not seen a UOA yet for the Total Quartz 0w20 but there are some older ones for 5W30, 5W40. I saw lots of angry emojis on the lock. Its ok, I agree it started to violate rule #99 or whichever about social media bragging, me being the guilty one. I guess I was just excited that it seemed to slip under the usual slickdeal effect where its gone in 60 seconds.
Thank you for the fuel information!
'cos it's a better quality oil?
Like PP Euro LX as an example, it's made in Germany and Shell admits it's the best oil they make. Just google Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2/C3 which is the same oil. Here is what Shell says: "...Shell Helix Ultra ECT C2/C3 0W-30 – our most advanced formulation to date."
Higher HTHS in the xw30 and most other flavors and meets seriously higher specs. This is SP, MB and VW spec oils. No brainer.
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