Does your vehicle recommend SP? If SN is in the owners manual, there’s no benefit. SP is just backwards compatible.
Any reason NOT to buy the Euro version?
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Triple_Se7en
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Much easier to help Azimuth, should he mention what year, make, model and engine he has.
That was an informative video but all I could think about was how that’s the guy from Donut media.
To keep it on topic, I’m currently running Mobil 1 0w40 in my ecoboost. While I believe the new API SP oils are quality, I also believe the euro standards are superior. My Hyundai also calls out ACEA A5.
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Thanks all. It's a 2019 Kia Sorento with the 3.3L Lambda II GDI (non-turbo) engine. It calls for API SM or above (with an asterisk that if SM is not available then use SN or above). My line of thinking is that they just wrote in the manual what was available at the time. Plus, if SP is stricter and backward compatible with what is before it, then it can only do good to use it, correct (e.g. lower Ca for better LSPI protection for SP, and better timing chain protection in SN+)? The same applies to other standards like European ones, which I sort of implied when I said I prefer using L SAPS oils since they are supposed to minimize deposits in DI engines - even though I could probably use a full SAPS euro oil. I wouldn't be as concerned with say a dual port/direct injected Toyota engine as I am with Kia, especially since they had documented issues with their engines.
On a side note, I was having some oil consumption by 3.5K miles (about 1/2 qt), still "acceptable" according to the manufacturers I suppose, but it still doesn't sit well with me. I'd been using whatever the dealership was putting in it (some cheap "synthetic blend"). After coming on this forum and learning more about oils, I switched to full synthetic. I lowered my OCI to 3.5K-4K miles compared to the 5K miles the dealership service was putting into the computer (something the dealership must have been definitely aware of given the snowy cold winters of the state I live in, which would trigger the "severe" maintenance schedule as per the manual, reducing the OCI to 3,750 miles - but of course they conveniently disregard to mention to the user, who will end up being screwed if there is an issue with the engine). I switched to full synthetic 4 OCIs ago (the first two still run to 5K miles because of a lot of highway miles, but still 1/2 qt consumption by 3.5K miles). I used HPL's EC30 in my last run for 3,800 miles, and I didn't experience any consumption during it. Still early to call it though. Now I'm running M1 5W-30 ESP for about 500 miles into the OCI. I like that it's thicker for the hot summer. I also purchased 7 qts of HPL 5W-30 which I plan to use when it's cooler, and after I run one or two more OCIs using either M1 5W-30 ESP or M1 5W-30 EP + EC30 (I purchased 2 qts of it, and I have one remaining) for a slower, methodical, gentler cleaning before using HPL. So now you see why I'm being paranoid with this engine
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Thanks all. It's a 2019 Kia Sorento with the 3.3L Lambda II GDI (non-turbo) engine. It calls for API SM or above (with an asterisk that if SM is not available then use SN or above). My line of thinking is that they just wrote in the manual what was available at the time. Plus, if SP is stricter and backward compatible with what is before it, then it can only do good to use it, correct (e.g. lower Ca for better LSPI protection for SP, and better timing chain protection in SN+)? The same applies to other standards like European ones, which I sort of implied when I said I prefer using L SAPS oils since they are supposed to minimize deposits in DI engines - even though I could probably use a full SAPS euro oil. I wouldn't be as concerned with say a dual port/direct injected Toyota engine as I am with Kia, especially since they had documented issues with their engines.
On a side note, I was having some oil consumption by 3.5K miles (about 1/2 qt), still "acceptable" according to the manufacturers I suppose, but it still doesn't sit well with me. I'd been using whatever the dealership was putting in it (some cheap "synthetic blend"). After coming on this forum and learning more about oils, I switched to full synthetic. I lowered my OCI to 3.5K-4K miles compared to the 5K miles the dealership service was putting into the computer (something the dealership must have been definitely aware of given the snowy cold winters of the state I live in, which would trigger the "severe" maintenance schedule as per the manual, reducing the OCI to 3,750 miles - but of course they conveniently disregard to mention to the user, who will end up being screwed if there is an issue with the engine). I switched to full synthetic 4 OCIs ago (the first two still run to 5K miles because of a lot of highway miles, but still 1/2 qt consumption by 3.5K miles). I used HPL's EC30 in my last run for 3,800 miles, and I didn't experience any consumption during it. Still early to call it though. Now I'm running M1 5W-30 ESP for about 500 miles into the OCI. I like that it's thicker for the hot summer. I also purchased 7 qts of HPL 5W-30 which I plan to use when it's cooler, and after I run one or two more OCIs using either M1 5W-30 ESP or M1 5W-30 EP + EC30 (I purchased 2 qts of it, and I have one remaining) for a slower, methodical, gentler cleaning before using HPL. So now you see why I'm being paranoid with this engine
I believe SP includes the LSPI test created for SN+. It's the TGDI timing chain test which is part of SP.
In my '17 Theta II 2.4L DI (non - turbo) used for mixed driving - I keep OCI's down to 4K miles / 4 months , so a Euro oil really doesn't add up for me to use . Instead at such OCI's for my DI engine I use synthetic D1/Gen 3 SP rated 5W30 oils M1 , Valvoline and sometimes Penzoil.
Yes I may have swapped them around. doh
While I don’t have a half-breed, I do have a 100% Italian from Verona, Italy. By the way, it is true they talk with her hands with great choreography.Try half German half Italian
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suppose you want to consolidate and only run one oil. could you run a euro 5w40 in each of:
2016 6.0 vortec 2500hd with 105k miles
65 GTO 505 cid pontiac v8 with mild hydraulic roller
1997 jeep tj 4.0 with 220k miles
1972 k10'with mild flat tappet 396
2007 subaru outback with 4 cyl non turbo and 110k miles
brand new toyota 4runner
currently have all but the toyota and looking to trade subaru in on 4runner in year or two.
my best guess is that the first four are all ok but thinner for the subaru and toyota.
2016 6.0 vortec 2500hd with 105k miles
65 GTO 505 cid pontiac v8 with mild hydraulic roller
1997 jeep tj 4.0 with 220k miles
1972 k10'with mild flat tappet 396
2007 subaru outback with 4 cyl non turbo and 110k miles
brand new toyota 4runner
currently have all but the toyota and looking to trade subaru in on 4runner in year or two.
my best guess is that the first four are all ok but thinner for the subaru and toyota.
sure, 5w40 would easily do all that. You could even run 10w40 in the summer months if you wanted.
It would be interesting to see how some of the EP oils compare to the Euro oils grade for grade on some of the industry standard tests like the IIIH etc. My guess is they would perform similarly, with the Euro oils having higher HT/HS for a given grade and lower SA for some. For example, how would Amsoil Euro 5w30 compare to SS 5w30 if tested against the IIIH?
I’ll agree. I personally like QSUD/QSUP for the priceAdam… Shell does make really good oils. They may not make some of the better additives available like in M1 Euro 0w40 (ANs & esters), but IMHO the PP & PUP are really good shelf stock oils, even if they’re on the thinner side of the relative viscosity grades
I'm not sure that I agree with you. If you have a vehicle made before SP oils came out....how can the improvements made to SP oils not benefit that vehicle? I'm referring to timing chain wear improvements etc...Having said that I am using up my stash of SN oils in my vehicles because I have them and many vehicles achieved very high miles on them.
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Good points. However, there are new cars that permit lower API designation levels. This is taken from the new Mazda CX-90 manual:
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Same thing applies, doesn’t matter at all if the designation is even older. If your vehicle recommends SM, SN is fine, and so is SP. You shouldn’t, however, use SL in that case of the Mazda.
Thanks. What do you make of the fact that for the rest of the world, the manual doesn't even specify an API designation?
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