There’s several high-quality Euro choices on one of the board’s sponsor’s websites that likely give Pennz Euro LX a run for its monkey…
Any reason NOT to buy the Euro version?
- Thread starter Nick814
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Adam… Shell does make really good oils. They may not make some of the better additives available like in M1 Euro 0w40 (ANs & esters), but IMHO the PP & PUP are really good shelf stock oils, even if they’re on the thinner side of the relative viscosity gradesI’m glad you believe SOPUS marketing. Not everyone does.
I am using Valvoline EP 5W-30 for my v8 Tundra. It's my "moly oil" for this particular engine. Not pricey either ($31-32 / 5 qt) and good UOAs. Engine sounds very smooooth. Japanese engines like moly. However, I ain't no pro!
Looks like prices have come down. I paid $31.xx several months ago but it's now $28.xx
Within the same months, I bought M1 FS 0W-40 (Euro) for another car for $22.xx / 5 qt.
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Especially if she makes great kalitki like Tatiana
This is now my "go to" with the Tundra, RX 350, Soul, lawnmower, snowblower, generator - it's easy to find, not expensive, and I can stock one oil. Originally bought it for the Soul out of an OCD irrational abundance of caution and then figured why not use it with everything? I still have some 0W20 to use and some Kirkland 0W40 is mixed in the stash too but I see no reason to not just keep it simple with this oil.I am using Valvoline EP 5W-30 for my v8 Tundra. It's my "moly oil" for this particular engine. Not pricey either ($31-32 / 5 qt) and good UOAs. Engine sounds very smooooth. Japanese engines like moly. However, I ain't no pro!
Looks like prices have come down. I paid $31.xx several months ago but it's now $28.xx
Within the same months, I bought M1 FS 0W-40 (Euro) for another car for $22.xx / 5 qt.
It seems the Canadian tire variant of the euro LX is nearly identical as it’s made by shell as well so might keep an eye out for when it’s on sale as it should be even cheaper.There’s several high-quality Euro choices on one of the board’s sponsor’s websites that likely give Pennz Euro LX a run for its monkey…
wemay
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Right now, all i have in my small stash is Euro oil. And the lowest viscosity is 5W30. Might just keep it that way to simplify my oil changes.
I'm running M1 5W-30 ESP for my latest oil change, and I like it so far. I looked at PP Euro L 5W-30, but it is "only" rated API SN, as opposed to SP for M1. Is that going to be an issue, or is it is safe to assume that PP passes SP requirements, but they just didn't bother with the certification?
My Prius liked Castrol 0W-40 Euro Edge, even poured our black after an OCI but I attribute that to whatever HPL EC and VPBR softened up.
I’m running M1 ESP 5W-30 in a Subaru for one very good reason - oil dilution. And it’s also a fairly power dense engine but not so much towards the LSPI side of things(which I will only use a D1G2 or VW/BMW spec oil for).
I’m running M1 ESP 5W-30 in a Subaru for one very good reason - oil dilution. And it’s also a fairly power dense engine but not so much towards the LSPI side of things(which I will only use a D1G2 or VW/BMW spec oil for).
I wouldn’t assume that.
I'd assume that there's too much calcium in it to pass the LSPI requirements of SN+ or SP.
Just buy the Euro QS 5W-40. Run it in most DI engines and it will functionally be a 5W-30.
Maybe I'm being paranoid, but I like the low SAPS in the ESP line, and its peers from other manufacturers. I want to avoid any potential issues with deposits. I mean it's only a Kia
but still, I want it to last.Does anybody know if ACEA A7/B7 and C6 oils have hit the shelves yet? I haven't been seeing these certifications in spec sheets yet. The main reason I wouldn't use a Euro oil are due to LSPI concerns, which are apparently addressed in these updated standards.
Maybe I'm being paranoid, but I like the low SAPS in the ESP line, and its peers from other manufacturers. I want to avoid any potential issues with deposits. I mean it's only a Kia
It is SP-rated, low calcium so LSPI is not an issue. In fact, it is lower than the Mobil ESP 5W-30 and within a whisker of the viscosity too.
My UOA of PP Euro LX 0w30 came back with a calcium of 1608 if I'm recalling correctly. Haven't found anyone that seems to know exactly what defines "low" calcium, but, it is lower than many samples I've seen. As far as I can tell, I've had no indication of LSPI incidents in over 40,000 miles of running this oil. And, again, if I'm putting in 5.5 quarts and draining almost exactly 5.5 quarts, I don't think much oil is making it into the combustion chamber to induce an LSPI event...either the Calcium is "low enough", or BMW software richens the mixture enough after an LSPI event to stop it immediately, or the tiny whiff of oil that may be making it past the rings isn't enough to cause an LSPI event. I plan to put HPL Supercar 0w30 oil in it next change, and run it the full 10,000 miles...I've been changing the PP Euro LX every 5000 miles.
I use mostly m1 0w40 fs in my silverado and 70s Oldsmobile v8. If I can't get it on sale and I need oil I'll go with a 5w30 but still a euro version. Only reason I can think of not to (besides a vehicle under warranty) is to get a high mileage oil to try to prevent oil leaks.
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