Another Dave's Auto Center

Seems a lot for a failed lifter. What about just replacing the failed lifter and saying that's as good as it needs to get for an engine with over 200K on the clock
Drive it till it breaks, then get a LKQ engine.

These engines and parts are not made like they used to be. If an engine is ran hot and blows a head gasket, throw it away. You will never get the head to seat properly.
What about machining the head and block? Wouldn't that make them truly flat and mate correctly or does this cost too much?
 
This is incorrect information. As someone who works and has worked at several dealerships. These engines and parts are not made like they used to be. If an engine is ran hot and blows a head gasket, throw it away. You will never get the head to seat properly. An old cast iron block could be ran at 260 and never phased it. When your playing with a customers money you never gamble to TRY and replace the head gasket, you simply replace engine.
Like I've been saying. All the now engines are crap, and made to be disposable.
 
Drive it till it breaks, then get a LKQ engine.


What about machining the head and block? Wouldn't that make them truly flat and mate correctly or does this cost too much?
If you have the proper tools, and don't have to pay someone to do all the work. But then time is $. If you think DIY cost you nothing. Then spend a week or more at your normal job for free then.
 
He has another YouTube video where a vehicle with an engine 'tic' comes in. Previous shop replaced the belt, water pump, idler & tensioner. Removing the belt reveals the tic is still there. He feels the tic is a lifter and says the solution is to replace the lifter, cam and oil pump as metal parts of the failed lifter probably went into the oil sump were picked up by the oil pump and probably ended up in the oil filter. Head needs to come off to replace the lifter.

With over 200K on the clock he says maybe time for a replacement engine.

Seems a lot for a failed lifter. What about just replacing the failed lifter and saying that's as good as it needs to get for an engine with over 200K on the clock.

I did not hear him say he would cut apart the oil filter looking for remnants of the failed lifter. Might be there if oil had not been changed since the lifter failed.

I saw the video.

Dave does it his way…… or he won’t work on engine.

Yes, repair bill was very expensive for the owner of Dodge diesel truck.
Dave talks about cylinder # 6 needing a sleeve due to that Cummins engine design and # 6 running hotter than the other cylinders.
 
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Drive it till it breaks, then get a LKQ engine.


What about machining the head and block? Wouldn't that make them truly flat and mate correctly or does this cost too much?
When you do that you’re then raising the compression ratio. Also you don’t know how warped the head is. You might have to shave it down too many thousands and run the risk of piston and valves kissing. Again like we said you’re gambling with customers money. Nothing is guaranteed while TRYING to save the engine. Buy a new engine and send it down the road.
 
When you do that you’re then raising the compression ratio. Also you don’t know how warped the head is. You might have to shave it down too many thousands and run the risk of piston and valves kissing. Again like we said you’re gambling with customers money. Nothing is guaranteed while TRYING to save the engine. Buy a new engine and send it down the road.

So put a straight edge on it first and measure it with a feeler gauge. It’s not difficult.
 
So put a straight edge on it first and measure it with a feeler gauge. It’s not difficult.
You’re not getting it! Shops and dealerships are not toying with all this nonsense and going down that rabbit hole. It’s not feasible or cost effective to do all that on these aluminum, disposable engines, especially if it has 70,000 plus miles. You can’t charge a customer to FIX it and then start having cooling problems, etc, then turn around and say well we don’t know if it was going to fix it and now you need an engine. That’s not good business practice.
 
I think good machine shops are rare these days. It takes expensive machines and skill.
And the whole engine has to be completely taken apart to surface the deck. Otherwise plenty of machining debris will go everywhere.
So its not just a simple thing to do. May not be cost effective for a normal shop or owner of said car. And like mentioned above, if your a shop and just does a quicky fix, and it comes back because it didn't work as planned the shop eats the redo on that job, and may have to pay for the replacement engine as well. Its likely better for them to just charge for that in the first place.
If its a place like this thread is talking about, you can guess the cost could be as much or more than a new oem unit.
 
This is incorrect information. As someone who works and has worked at several dealerships. These engines and parts are not made like they used to be. If an engine is ran hot and blows a head gasket, throw it away. You will never get the head to seat properly. An old cast iron block could be ran at 260 and never phased it. When your playing with a customers money you never gamble to TRY and replace the head gasket, you simply replace engine.
And the low tension rings wont seal after overheated either
 
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