An argument for 5k OCI

Perhaps the first part of your sentence answers the second.
You know, I think we're on the same page. So you think this engine used inferior oil?

But that doesn’t make a lot of sense based on the cleanliness of the engine? Why would the squirters on the end cylinders clog and the rest of the engine looks clean? And as Overkill mentioned these squirters are subject to engine oil pressure…

Just doesn’t add up assuming his diagnosis of clogged squirters is correct (always plugged he says).
 
the Saturn 1.9L, fitted with too small, and too few, oil drain holes in the oil control ring area. These would plug up with oxidized/degraded coke produced in this area and eventually stop draining. The rings would then stop moving and get packed into their grooves and the oil control function disappeared, resulting in significant consumption.
Just some anecdotal evidence, I owned a 1992 Saturn with a 1.9L DOHC for about 20 years. After the 60k KM warrantly expired, I switched to M1 and used that for years until I eventually switched to bulk oil and a white box filter. When I drove it to the recyclers over 10 years ago, it had just under 200k kms and never used any appreciable amount of oil. I think it had alot to do with using synthetic oil, and believe me, I thrashed on that little engine and tranny like you wouldn't believe.
 
So, nobody knows, or nobody is willing to say.
I doubt that the ring pack drain holes plugged up due to particle accumulation. Nothing that big would pass through a filter, unless in bypass, which I seriously doubt would happen in 10,000 miles.
This plugging that you see is due to heat, and is a by product of engine design. Excessive heat in the ring area.
I agree. Engine design, small drain back openings on the piston.

And someone mentioned the cooling spray nozzles were clogged? I didn’t see that/or remember that in the video.
 
I call FOUL on this. This engine is CLEAN. ZERO signs that the oil was left in too long and no sign that the oil broke down. If it had there would have been varnish, stains and the beginning of sludge! At 10K miles the oil apparently didn't have the film strength to keep the outside cylinder walls from getting scuffed by the rings. Why were only the outside jugs scarred and not the No 2 and No 3 jugs scarred? Its a port injected engine so GDI fuel dilution shouldn't be an issue. So Toyota can't build an engine that lasts using the factory specified oil changed at the factory specified interval?
 
If the oil control rings were stuck in their grooves and no longer able to expand, why would that have caused the wear in a single spot on each of the cylinder walls?
 
You guys probably won’t all believe this but it did happen. I bought my daughter a 2002 Corolla it had almost 100k on it. The ball joints were shot, struts were shot and tie rods were shot. It also used oil. I got the car very cheap because of this, I spent $400 and replaced all the fore-mentioned parts and it was a pretty solid car. I read somewhere that using a lighter oil helped the consumption issue so I started using
Supertech 0w-20 synthetic oil. I didn’t see much of an improvement right away, it still used a quart of oil every couple thousand miles. I changed the oil every 3k mainly to make sure my daughter didn’t run it dry. After about 50k miles I realized it stopped using oil and never did until it was totaled by my son at nearly 300k miles. So did the frequent oil changes help free the rings or channels? Did the synthetic oil help? Who friggin knows but I change my oil 3-5k miles.
 
If the oil control rings were stuck in their grooves and no longer able to expand, why would that have caused the wear in a single spot on each of the cylinder walls?
It definitely wouldn't. That's likely from something else. I wonder if it was overheated?
 
You know, I think we're on the same page. So you think this engine used inferior oil?
It's possible because we have no idea of either the brand or the viscosity of the oil that was used in that engine. But it depends what you mean by, "inferior oil"? According to the video, the owner depended on 2 Toyota dealers for service.

That said, do Toyota dealers use, "inferior oil"? Because according to the mechanic, that car never saw a Jiffy Lube... Only Toyota dealerships, and 10,000 mile oil changes.

We know for certain that 2 of the cylinders had clogged piston oil cooling jets, (or whatever they're called), that were not functioning. And we also know it was the same 2 cylinders that had the gunked up, frozen oil rings that deeply scored the cylinder walls enough to trash the block.

So the question then becomes, what caused them to clog? We can tell by the size of the cooling jet orifice, that while possible, it's pretty unlikely it was a single piece of debris that clogged it. Let alone 2 pieces that clogged both of them.

So that leaves buildup of gunk, sludge, crap over time inside the orifice itself. The time factor is there, because he went with 10,000 mile oil and filter changes. Add in "inferior oil", and that would certainly help speed the destruction process along.

So everything points to oil. Either oil that was not changed often enough. Or poor quality oil. Or all of the above.

The important fact to remember, is it was only the 2 cylinders that weren't getting proper cooling oil on the pistons that had the frozen rings, along with the scored cylinder walls that caused all of this... Nothing else.

So if those 2 oil cooling jets had not clogged, none of this would have happened. Because there was nothing else wrong. The scored cylinder walls were caused by the frozen up oil rings. And the rings froze up because the pistons that held them OVERHEATED.

And it was that combination that led to the high oil consumption, and the $6,000.00+ bill to fix it.
 
I believe most manufacturers extend the oil change intervals to give a appearance of lower cost of ownership through the warranty, and not necessarily about engine life.

A few years ago on a previous sonata 2.4l, I had my mind set on one year or about 17-18,000 mile oil change interval with M1 ep 5w20 and a ultra filter…

The car was totaled out that very same year before the end of the oil change interval.

That might’ve been a blessing because I’m sure the motor would’ve gave me issues, especially being the 2.4l mill that does not take kindly to neglect, or aftermarket oil filters..

Since then, on current sonata 2.4l, I went to 7500 oci and currently now do 5-6K oci using 5W30 synthetic with a OEM filter… sometime I might change oil three times a year on sonata, but in my mind it’s cheap insurance for optimum engine protection, being direct injected with a timing chain, and Hyundai‘s famous 2.4l, I think frequent oil changes are a must.

I am not saying a 10k oil change interval is impossible, if you have a engine that’s pretty easy on oil, holds at least 5 quarts, and use good quality synthetics with usually OEM filters, plus spend most of your time on the highway, absolutely take it to 10 or even 12 K. (Remember to keep the oil full also 😉) - Used oil analysis would probably be beneficial though just to get a baseline.
 
My Tahoe oil change light comes on at 7500-8000 miles. Full syn it's whole life.
216k on the clock
 
An argument for 6234.5568 mile (repeating oil changes)
 
So in the outside two cylinders we have clogged cooling jets, damaged or frozen oil control rings, and "dimples" in the cylinder walls that could not have been caused by the damaged rings. Is it possible that this is LSPI damage?
 
Also he says the guy has an 80 mile commute, and that it never went over a year.

80 miles a day for a 5 day work week is approximately 20,000 miles a year, and that’s assuming that the 80 miles is both ways.
 
Tell you what, you guys on the extended oil changes are convincing me more and more to keep extending mine.
Dont fall victim 😂😜

Kidding. I get it. However, my engine building experience kicks in and I just have a hard time going over 6K. Preferably 5K. Not knocking anyone who does longer OCIs. This is just a personal issue problem and God knows I have a lot of those LOL. But that's a whole other can of slop 🤦‍♂️
 
The oil filter on my V6 Alero (3400 engine) is rather small and no way am I going to go past 5K on oil. Now when I had an Escort with a 1.9L engine and that huge oil filter, I was OK with 7.5K oil changes.
 
Just look up any of my Ford Focus or Scion XD UOA's for proof that long oil change intervals will not measurably harm the engine. As I said before, I'd never push a direct injection oil as far as I do now but the data don't lie.
 
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