Amsoil -- What's The Difference?

1999 was the year i believe when castrols group III oil was marketed as "synthetic", they + mobil went around + the advertising whatever they are determined " close enough" to be sold as such + thats when mobil stopped using PAO as well as others!! Germany may be the only place that does not allow group III oils sold as synthetic, + only in germany as oils sold in USA only need meet our laws!!
 
Can’t say I share the same experience with respect to M1 10w40 4T. M1 10w40 4T goes over 5000 miles with retained shift quality in my ZZR 1200 cammed and high-comp piston ZRX 1200 making double the torque and 40-50% more horsepower than a Japanese 600. Good deal the Amsoil is working well, it’s a good oil.
 
The only problem is that it's not exactly true. Some selected basetocks come from Exxon Mobil but not all. Amsoil buys to specification not brand.

Just thinking back a while (I did work for Mobil Oil in their flight department) and another brand (not Amsoil) would purchase a specific M1 product or two, bottle it, and sell in Europe. Sometimes imported back into the states too, for 2-3x the price. Same exact product.
 
MOST oil sellers are BLENDERS + buy base stocks + additives from OTHERS based on PRICE point + what is the intended use. manufactures of all types TRY to "make" whatever at the least cost allowing more profits. there are better oils at a price, many better than needed!! your $$ your CHOICE!!
 
Come warmer wx, I'm going to jack up the Can Am, lay on floor, and drain the old oil in the 1330 engine. Amsoil is going in and I may never change oil again. ;) I ride little these days and that motor is noted for exceptionally long life with 9000 mile changes specified by Mfg.
 
Amsoil is a BLENDER as most are + as they say get the raw materials from OTHERS + blend said oils with an add pack of their choice!!
 
From what I know about Amsoil for V-Twins it has a very high TBN so you can run it much
longer than other oils. However IMO it depends on the bike. While it might be good for Harley's
with fuel injected systems, I would never use it in a bike with a carb like my 1988.
There's just too much chance of fuel contamination due to poor air/fuel ratios or a stuck float.
 
"I would never use it for long drain intervals in a bike with a carb like my 1988.
I would change it at regular intervals if I didn't mind spending the money."

There, fixed it for ya ;-)

From what I know about Amsoil for V-Twins it has a very high TBN so you can run it much
longer than other oils. However IMO it depends on the bike. While it might be good for Harley's
with fuel injected systems, I would never use it in a bike with a carb like my 1988.
There's just too much chance of fuel contamination due to poor air/fuel ratios or a stuck float.
 
From what I know about Amsoil for V-Twins it has a very high TBN so you can run it much
longer than other oils. However IMO it depends on the bike. While it might be good for Harley's
with fuel injected systems, I would never use it in a bike with a carb like my 1988.
There's just too much chance of fuel contamination due to poor air/fuel ratios or a stuck float.
Come on, I do 5000+ mile OCI’s with M1 MC oils (10w40 4T or 20w50 V-Twin) with my carb’d 20 year old ZRX1200, with flash points of 400 or above and remaining TBN in the 6’s. If a rider can’t tune carburetors (poor A/F) or maintain them (stuck float) can’t blame it on anybody but the owner. Yes, then use “cheap” oil and change it every time it gets contaminated because the owner couldn’t understand carbs are not fuel injection, LOL.

Heck yes, use Amsoil or any high-end oil in any bike as long as the owner can maintain it.
 
I understand some companies have abused MLM in the past. MLM is not a single method, nor is it a scam. First of all we are talking about a legal method of selling product, NOT a pyramid scheme.
I see you've checked your credibility at the door on your way in.
 
Come on, I do 5000+ mile OCI’s with M1 MC oils (10w40 4T or 20w50 V-Twin) with my carb’d 20 year old ZRX1200, with flash points of 400 or above and remaining TBN in the 6’s. If a rider can’t tune carburetors (poor A/F) or maintain them (stuck float) can’t blame it on anybody but the owner. Yes, then use “cheap” oil and change it every time it gets contaminated because the owner couldn’t understand carbs are not fuel injection, LOL.

Heck yes, use Amsoil or any high-end oil in any bike as long as the owner can maintain it.
Whoa bad boy......I'm guessing you are the ace mechanic on the forum. If you think for a moment that a carb delivers as good of an air/fuel ratio as fuel injection does, I have some swamp land to sell you. If your bike is stock then it's probably ok but who leaves their bikes stock? You use whatever the f*ck you want in that bike. If I had a 20 yr old ZRX1200 I probably wouldn't care. But I don't. I have my reasons and they don't have to be confirmed by you.






It looks like some Kaw riders seem to be having fuel dilution problems.....:)


Hell even new Honda's have a fuel dilution problem.


But you're right. Fuel dilution isn't an issue to anybody, especially those who can maintain their bikes like yourself. I'm sure you have hundreds of thousands of miles on that bike, and with your skills it will be on the road another few decades. LMAO

I guess sh*t happens. Nuff said
 
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If your bike is stock then it's probably ok but who leaves their bikes stock?
Lots of people leave their bikes stock. Lots of riders do not choose to spend extra money so they can feel special and look extra cool and more power wow. Some of us just want to have fun and stock motorcycles work fine. Believe it or not, a machine in factory trim will often fetch a higher sales price. Go figure.
 
Whoa bad boy......I'm guessing you are the ace mechanic on the forum. If you think for a moment that a carb delivers as good of an air/fuel ratio as fuel injection does, I have some swamp land to sell you. If your bike is stock then it's probably ok but who leaves their bikes stock? You use whatever the f*ck you want in that bike. If I had a 20 yr old ZRX1200 I probably wouldn't care. But I don't. I have my reasons and they don't have to be confirmed by you.






It looks like some Kaw riders seem to be having fuel dilution problems.....:)


Hell even new Honda's have a fuel dilution problem.


But you're right. Fuel dilution isn't an issue to anybody, especially those who can maintain their bikes like yourself. I'm sure you have hundreds of thousands of miles on that bike, and with your skills it will be on the road another few decades. LMAO

I guess sh*t happens. Nuff said
Friend lighten up, matters not how many miles are on my bike or how well it’s maintained. It matters that your statement is patently false. Bikes take maintenance and fuel injection makes it easier. If guys aren’t willing to maintain their carbs and rebuild them every so often they get what they sow. Sounds like you must’ve had a carbureted bike that dumped fuel in the oil and you had to dump all your pennies into a drain pan to address a crank case full of fuel?

I showed a counter example to your blanket statement about not running more expensive oil in a carbureted bike, you then throw out testy language like somebody pee’d in your post Toastie‘s breakfast just because you aren’t 100% right all the time, at least with respect to this. I consider 5000 miles or a bit more on an oil change with a carbureted bike or fuel injected bike to be fine and analysis shows that to be true.
 
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Lots of people leave their bikes stock. Lots of riders do not choose to spend extra money so they can feel special and look extra cool and more power wow. Some of us just want to have fun and stock motorcycles work fine. Believe it or not, a machine in factory trim will often fetch a higher sales price. Go figure.
Yes, older bikes do fetch more resale when they are stock for sure. My bike that is referenced is not stock, but it's not going up for sale anytime soon. High compression pistons, carburetors grafted from a ZZR 1200, ZZR 1200 camshafts, ZZR 1200 double valve springs along with ZX11 ECU that allows an 11,500 rev limit and more performance oriented timing curve. Every oil analysis in the last 5 years has been posted with that setup. Other than the pistons, it's mostly bolt on and plug and play. And there is a standalone fuel injection system that has been developed for it, but I'd rather run the carburetors and risk the chance of ruining good oil, lol.
 
Respectfully, show that Amsoil uses a different grade/better/superior version of additives than the same zinc, phosphorus, boron, moly, magnesium etc. that Warren distribution (Super Tech) or any number of other oils employ. I am not able to find the discussion however I recall it was fairly evident most if not all oil manufacturers regardless of the name on the bottle get them from a very short list of suppliers if not the same supplier.
Why pick on just Amsoil, wouldn't that question go to any more expensive oil?
Heck, M1 isnt that far behind and Mobil is as huge as Walmart in the oil world.

I can tell you right now, Super Tech will not be smooth shifting to 5000 miles like Amsoil or Mobil 1 ... so right there is some proof over any number of other oils.
Ps. Dont think for a minute that the UOAs and VOAs in here are some kind of proof over how capable an oil is. Using 40 year old technology for testing the capability of a modern oil is worthless.
Yet time and again, M1 and Amsoil will prove superior shifting until the oil change at the expense of actually thickening up which is an unknown as far as if that is good or not. Most likely not and should still change at the required interval.
 
Friend lighten up, matters not how many miles are on my bike or how well it’s maintained. It matters that your statement is patently false. Bikes take maintenance and fuel injection makes it easier. If guys aren’t willing to maintain their carbs and rebuild them every so often they get what they sow. Sounds like you must’ve had a carbureted bike that dumped fuel in the oil and you had to dump all your pennies into a drain pan to address a crank case full of fuel?

I showed a counter example to your blanket statement about not running more expensive oil in a carbureted bike, you then throw out testy language like somebody pee’d in your post Toastie‘s breakfast just because you aren’t 100% right all the time, at least with respect to this. I consider 5000 miles or a bit more on an oil change with a carbureted bike or fuel injected bike to be fine and analysis shows that to be true.

Mantenance? Did you look at my sig? With well over 200k on my 1988 I can assure you it didn't get there by accident. Can you read or are you just wacking off on other peoples posts? I said I (meaning ME not YOU or anybody else) wouldn't use Amsoil in a carb bike like my 1988. Once again YOU use whatever you want in that bike of yours. Try and comprehend what people post, let them have their say and opinion and you won't get snappy answers. But crap on another's post and expect to get treated like the arse you are :)
 
Mantenance? Did you look at my sig? With well over 200k on my 1988 I can assure you it didn't get there by accident. Can you read or are you just wacking off on other peoples posts? I said I (meaning ME not YOU or anybody else) wouldn't use Amsoil in a carb bike like my 1988. Once again YOU use whatever you want in that bike of yours. Why the f*ck would it concern you what I do? Try and comprehend what people post, let them have their say and opinion and you won't get snappy answers. But crap on another's post and expect to get treated like the arse you are :)
 
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