Amsoil Series 2000 vs other Q's

Not open for further replies.
Jun 12, 2004
Rockledge, FL
If Series 2000 0w-30 is better why is the "Four ball test" worst then the 10w-30 amsoil, .374 vs .35 did I miss something?
The 4-ball wear test has been discussed here many times. I don't think it is all that valid of a test for motor oils. Even is you believe it has worth, this would be splitting hairs anyway.

I would ignore the 4-ball in deciding between these two oils.
There are more salient criteria than the 4-ball-wear test. That test may serve as an index of sorts, and it is used in the industry for guidelines regarding wear characteristics. More important is the extended OCI and oil filter changes along with UOA to justify the high cost of the oil.
Ok, looking at specs again...

The "Four Ball Test" is different using different oils, 0w-30 using 150c 1800rpm vs. 10w-30 75c 1200rpm the rest of test is the same in both.

So in really world 91f right now is one oil better then the other?

Why would Amsoil say 0w-30 for my car, and a local Amsoil dealer says 0w-30? Right now I running 10w-30, but in the future would one be better then the other for me?

I don't see why 0w-30 is $8.35 a quart when 10w-30 is $5.85 a quart.
Ask TOO SLICK I bet he knows.What kind of car is it. They told me to put the 10/30 in my 2004 2.5 Nissan. I guess both will not sheer in FLA. but one may work as well and save you a little $.I found out from FRANK that if your doing extended OC and maybey 1000 mi. before you change the filter put a few oz. of Auto RX in to make the oil look new. I am not sure if it will give you longer oil life but sure makes sense.I am going to do a UOA on the CAMRY soon at 3000 its first taste of SYNTHETIC with AMSOIL 10/30.
>>>I don't see why 0w-30 is $8.35 a quart when 10w-30 is $5.85 a quart.

In my opinion, and that of a lot of others, the 0W-30 is a better oil than the 10W-30.

Some years back, when the 0W-30 first came out, my son-in-law helped himself to a load of it, replacing the 10W-30. He called me about 6 weeks later to say he was consistently getting an extra 50 miles or more before the little red light came on telling him to get gas soon.

Both oils have been reformulated (maybe a couple of times) since then, but I use the 0W-30 in all my own cars--I think it is worth the extra $10 per year per car.
The car is a '03' Acura TL 3.2 S, the manual called for 5w-20 which I felt was a joke. (Sorry not a fan of the really thin stuff)

I now wonder if 0w-30 would provide even better MPG, or a better kick in the pants?
Series 2000 is more friction modified and has more ZDP. So for racing applications, it's a better choice. Some notice decreased operating temps when running this oil along with better fuel efficiency. These are where the benefits are.
Is there any negative point when an oil has too much additive? my old mechanic teacher used to say single weight oils protect the best since they have way less additive.
Viscosity index improvers are part of the additive package blended into base oil to produce engine oil.

Your old mechanic teacher may have had an element of truth in his statement many years ago, but that hasn't been true for many years. Except for engines operated in constant service in (industrial engines, for example), multi-vis oils provide much better flow and consequent better lubrication until fully warmed.

Truck and construction equipment engines use 15W-40 (except old Detroit 2-strokes). Railroad, tugboat, and generator engines use straight 40 wt. Different oils for different usages. Also, except in specialized oils for certain applications, 15W-40 has the best, up-to-date formulation.

Not open for further replies.