It is almost a brand new engine.
Amsoil Engine Tear Down Pics
- Thread starter buster
- Start date
It's a great choice. SS sits in between M1 and HPL in terms of SA levels. I believe Amsoil has a similar cleaning ability to HPL based on past information and from what I've seen through engine tear down pics. They also use some specialty esters per Dan Peterson in that Gale Banks video.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2023
- Messages
- 146
What does "SA level" mean? I'm new.
Sulphated Ash, the SA part in SAPS.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2023
- Messages
- 146
Thanks!Sulphated Ash, the SA part in SAPS.
"Pulled heads off of my 2008 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton w/ 5.3 this weekend and still looking clean with 348,690 original miles. I’ve been running Amsoil since day one and changed oil at 25,000 for the 1st 100k then every 20,000 miles after that. Replaced the broken valve spring and bolting her back up. Hope to get another 200k before rebuild."
*the formulation obvioiusly changed a few times throughout the life of this vehicle.
*the formulation obvioiusly changed a few times throughout the life of this vehicle.
Last edited:
Might be worth replacing all the valve springs - easy and cheap to do on that engine. If one broke, others may not be far behind.
Looks pretty good for a smozload of miles. Some people who dwell in these parts would say 'that looks ready for the scrapyard, look at all that yaller/brown looking stuff'.
Most boutique oils are very good oils.
The guy claimed you could wipe off the yellow, but I'm not sure.
Idk what the point of extending oil changes. Oil is super cheap. M1 and a Wix XP is 40x2 cars every 3-6 months. My 2020 RDX is done every 3k and my 2015 MDX is done every 5k. The RDX being turbo and boosted on a daily basis. Both engines direct Injection. Keep the gas out of the oil as much as possible. Oil is cheap. Engines are not. Boutique engine oils waste of money. It’s not a race car. Yes the MDX does get Redline for drive train. Redline not available for the RDX except the transfer case
Time and time again people show you can hit these high OCI’s and be totally fine with no engine troubles.
You say these boutique oils are a “waste of money” but you’re doing 5+ oil changes to his 1. You’re at $200+, about what I spent on my last order of HPL to do both my vehicles.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2010
- Messages
- 9,807
Blame that one on Ford. They specified 75W-140 for years in the 9.75" axle under F-150s and then CAFE hit and they reduced it to 75W-90. I ran Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-140 in my 2010 F-150 and it had better viscosity retention versus Motorcraft 75W-140 over a longer span of miles despite towing 8-9K for 45% of those miles.Amsoil's white paper on gear oil always says they have the best.
I used the 75w90 severe gear in both my F150's
Both had bearing failures in 20,000 miles.
I then saw 540 rat's test on it and it performed poorly. I know bogus info but......
Just changed my gear oil on my truck with HPL 75w90. See how that goes.
While I do not use their motor oils, Amsoil gear oil is arguably the best on the market.
My dad has a 2006 F150 he bought used several yrs ago, around 2008 give or take but the rear end had issues. Ford didn't get the hardness correct on the ring/pinion gearset and they had issues, per the dealer they already had repaired it once under warranty and I'm guessing the other owner most likely got rid of it and then right after dad's ownership it started roaring and he did get the extended warranty but the dealer did cover it... another issue he had with the truck is that it kept trying to engage 4wd when driving down the highway. I think that dealer must've been inept or something because they couldn't get it do that and would give it back, finally he left it there and a tech was going to drive it around a few days and finally on his way home it acted up. He doesn't goto that dealership anymore which I am glad, we've literally spent wasting half a day there easily for hours waiting for them to get done, they'd park it around the corner where you could barely see it but it would just be sitting there. Finally he wised up and started using the dealer here in town which actually one of the best ones around, they are cheaper and doesn't run around in circles either.
Me personally I wouldn't have bought that truck, it is fairly well equipped and with towing pkg but also has that 4.6.... to which I am dumbfounded.
I have a 20 with the 2.L Turbo. I disable the auto start on it. It was nice there’s a switch on the dash
I ran 7500mi OCIs on my 07 Odyssey with Pennzoil Euro 0w40 and it’s still running great over 6 years later.
75w140 is almost certainly overkill in a half-ton differential.
You should read the thread I have on 75w90s in the gear oil section, you’ll likely be surprised at the results. I’m in no way knocking Amsoil SVG because it is very good, but just like oils there are things some gear oils are better at some things than others.
As a counterpoint to your 75w140 comment, Richard Petty’s NASCAR haulers use a 75w90 from one of the other small blenders for the entire season with no issues.
Long story short, the proper fluid level is just as important as changing it on time. Excessive temperature will oxidize and thicken the fluid, which then leads downhill fast.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Red Bull keeps winning F1 - Mobil Techs take 15 fuel samples and 50 lubricant samples per race weekend …
Thinking it’s not Mobil’s OTC stuff
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Go for it …
Similar threads
