Am I right? or am I wrong?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
If the 504 holds up in CO it should definitely hold up on CA.

So would Redline Euro 5w30 be the best of both worlds on the presented debate? Would have low NOACK meaning high quality base oils AND low saps. Granted it doesn't carry OEM approval but just for argument sake.

Jeff


Wouldn't that be Pennzoil Ultra 5w-40? Approved and the lowest NOACK of an approved lube?
 
I don't think Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 is low saps the 5w30 is though.

If the previously mentioned possibility of Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 noack of 5.7 is even better if it's true.

As forapproved oils Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 may have the best noack but doesn't help if low saps is helping with the valve deposit issue.

I think I can get the Euro 5w30 Redline for the same price of Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.

Not sure what the values are for Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w30. Pennzoil info is difficult to obtain.

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I don't think Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 is low saps the 5w30 is though.

If the previously mentioned possibility of Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 noack of 5.7 is even better if it's true.

As forapproved oils Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 may have the best noack but doesn't help if low saps is helping with the valve deposit issue.

I think I can get the Euro 5w30 Redline for the same price of Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.

Not sure what the values are for Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w30. Pennzoil info is difficult to obtain.

Jeff




Something Redline is low SAPS? LOL!!
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
There is hardly any info in the rather informal VW presentation. If you doubt the whole Afton specs, which happens to be from one of the major additive companies in the world, go find the formal spec document from VW and we'll discuss.


I have the formal spec, there is no way I'm sharing on a public forum. however A3/B3 is a requirement for 505.

Dont take the Afton presentation for granted, its wrong.
 
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
There is hardly any info in the rather informal VW presentation. If you doubt the whole Afton specs, which happens to be from one of the major additive companies in the world, go find the formal spec document from VW and we'll discuss.

"Informal" VW presentation signed by the actual person, downloaded from API. Are you serious? Give me ANY, ANY VW 504.00/507.00 oil that has 1.5% sulfated ash? Do not be naive.
We will discuss when you grow up!


Exactly this, no 1.5% ash will get close to passing the DPF test.

Kind of hoped we could have discussions on forums, unfortunately being told I am wrong is a bit boring so I'll leave it there.
 
Originally Posted By: bobbydavro
Originally Posted By: edyvw
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
There is hardly any info in the rather informal VW presentation. If you doubt the whole Afton specs, which happens to be from one of the major additive companies in the world, go find the formal spec document from VW and we'll discuss.

"Informal" VW presentation signed by the actual person, downloaded from API. Are you serious? Give me ANY, ANY VW 504.00/507.00 oil that has 1.5% sulfated ash? Do not be naive.
We will discuss when you grow up!


Exactly this, no 1.5% ash will get close to passing the DPF test.

Kind of hoped we could have discussions on forums, unfortunately being told I am wrong is a bit boring so I'll leave it there.




I think you're wasting your time, but thanks for an excellent discussion anyway!!! At least the OP learned what he needed to learn from the discussion
wink.gif


I mean, it is pretty simple to me. In general, European cars in countries with very low sulphur fuel can use low-SAPS oils exclusively, whether they are gas or diesel vehicles.

In NA, gas cars need to use higher SAPS oils in order to take advantage of long OEM drain intervals. Low-SAPS oils can be used if drain interval is monitored and tailored to the situation of a particular usage pattern (through UOA).

It's clear that VW 502/505 oils are not low-SAPS variants. However, it's also clear why some VW 504/507 oils that are specifically marketed in Europe sometimes say "Also recommended for 502/505 applications". They can make this statement because this is often true in Europe, but not NA.

Mercedes is a classic example. In Europe, MB 229.51 can be used in all engines, gas or diesel. However, in NA, they are very clear that 229.5 must be used exclusively in gas engines, and 229.51 is for exclusive diesel use. No mystery there (229.5 being higher SAPS, and 229.51 being lower SAPS).
 
Originally Posted By: il_signore97
Mercedes is a classic example. In Europe, MB 229.51 can be used in all engines, gas or diesel.

Are you sure about this? I've looked at MB UK owner's manuals, and they clearly state to use 229.5 in gas engines and 22x.x1 in diesel engines.

MB-UK.png
 
I remember it being some sort of bulletin a few years back. It was something to the effect of 229.5 being the official recommendation for gas engines, but 229.51 was considered to be equivalent in Europe.

However, I have not kept up with the info and I could very well be wrong if MB have backed out of that decision for some reason.
 
[/quote]
Something Redline is low SAPS? LOL!!
grin.gif
[/quote]

They actually do. New for 2013 I believe. Low SAPS Euro 5w30 and 5w40. Really seems like decent stuff on "paper". I have not seen any VOA's of the stuff as of yet.

Jeff
 
Well the discussion here has really been interesting. I have never really thought of our (our being the USA) gas as being "bad" as compared to other countries (low sulfur). I understand that the "Euro" Low SAPS oils are primarily for the EU market. Here in the USA though, I am sure you can use them as long as you keep an eye on your used oil analysis to know how long you can actually go. 3-5k miles max I am sure.

BUT and there is ALWAYS a BUT is the controversy with DI motors and Intake valve deposits that affect almost every brand of DI motor. I am sure Oil and Gas values have allot if not everything to do with this problem. I mentioned earlier that in EU you dont hear of Intake Valve Gunk on the valves. So it makes you wonder, what is different from here
34.gif
to there
50.gif


The 2 variables seem to be Gas and Oil. Gas we really can do nothing about, some states like California do have less sulfur but still High compared to EU I am sure. So that leaves the Oil. Do I really care about 10K OCI's for my car? Not really, in my particular application the Mobil 1, PU that I have UOA'd so far both shear badly, both lose their TBN's badly, and after 3k mile used oil analysis Blackstone is saying to "Try 5k next time" which is what I am doing now. So for me to do OCI's in the 3k-5k range is going to happen regardless. So I though, well, why not try the 504 and cross my fingers that the Low SAPS may help the Valve Deposit issue. Though VW expressively wants 502 ONLY for the USA. Nice label in the engine compartment that I showed earlier.

I dont mean to
18.gif
about this issue, I just like to hear from folks that have more info available. You folks have brought more to the table than I have read in many posts. So I thank you for that. I just dont want to compromise longevity or performance in the process. The Mobil 1 ESP sounds interesting to me, though its not cheap. I can get Redline for the same price, BUT Mobil 1 carries the actual OEM approval that I need (in my manual it does state I may use a 504) though I think the Redline may be the better oil due to its physical make up. Sure I dont know EXACTLY what is in it, but we all can agree that Redline is NOT HC oil while Mobil 1 I am sure is. (for the same money what would you choose? HC or Group 4 and 5?)

I am understanding the values of the Specs with the info provided and it comes down to personal choice. Its a tough choice for me because my engine is forced induction, has DI, I live in an extremely warm climate half the year, and plan to Auto X once in a while. I dont like changing brands and switching oil all the time. One "all around oil" for all I mentioned I felt was the Mobil 1 0w40. Then I am thinking about that $400 valve cleaning job down the road and think....504??? haha
Trolling.gif


I Do know Redline recommends their standard 5w30 and they told me the "Euro" Low Saps was meant for Diesels. We all know I can use it. I am just debating if I should. My next OC will be due before EDYVW has his UOA done of his ESP Mobil 1 Oil. Im just debating what to put in next?

Jeff
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
I don't think Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 is low saps the 5w30 is though.

If the previously mentioned possibility of Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 noack of 5.7 is even better if it's true.

As forapproved oils Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 may have the best noack but doesn't help if low saps is helping with the valve deposit issue.

I think I can get the Euro 5w30 Redline for the same price of Mobil 1 ESP 5w30.

Not sure what the values are for Pennzoil Ultra Euro 5w30. Pennzoil info is difficult to obtain.

Jeff




Something Redline is low SAPS? LOL!!
grin.gif



Yep actually they do have:
Redline Low-SAPS
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Well the discussion here has really been interesting. I have never really thought of our (our being the USA) gas as being "bad" as compared to other countries (low sulfur). I understand that the "Euro" Low SAPS oils are primarily for the EU market. Here in the USA though, I am sure you can use them as long as you keep an eye on your used oil analysis to know how long you can actually go. 3-5k miles max I am sure.

BUT and there is ALWAYS a BUT is the controversy with DI motors and Intake valve deposits that affect almost every brand of DI motor. I am sure Oil and Gas values have allot if not everything to do with this problem. I mentioned earlier that in EU you dont hear of Intake Valve Gunk on the valves. So it makes you wonder, what is different from here
34.gif
to there
50.gif


The 2 variables seem to be Gas and Oil. Gas we really can do nothing about, some states like California do have less sulfur but still High compared to EU I am sure. So that leaves the Oil. Do I really care about 10K OCI's for my car? Not really, in my particular application the Mobil 1, PU that I have UOA'd so far both shear badly, both lose their TBN's badly, and after 3k mile used oil analysis Blackstone is saying to "Try 5k next time" which is what I am doing now. So for me to do OCI's in the 3k-5k range is going to happen regardless. So I though, well, why not try the 504 and cross my fingers that the Low SAPS may help the Valve Deposit issue. Though VW expressively wants 502 ONLY for the USA. Nice label in the engine compartment that I showed earlier.

I dont mean to
18.gif
about this issue, I just like to hear from folks that have more info available. You folks have brought more to the table than I have read in many posts. So I thank you for that. I just dont want to compromise longevity or performance in the process. The Mobil 1 ESP sounds interesting to me, though its not cheap. I can get Redline for the same price, BUT Mobil 1 carries the actual OEM approval that I need (in my manual it does state I may use a 504) though I think the Redline may be the better oil due to its physical make up. Sure I dont know EXACTLY what is in it, but we all can agree that Redline is NOT HC oil while Mobil 1 I am sure is. (for the same money what would you choose? HC or Group 4 and 5?)

I am understanding the values of the Specs with the info provided and it comes down to personal choice. Its a tough choice for me because my engine is forced induction, has DI, I live in an extremely warm climate half the year, and plan to Auto X once in a while. I dont like changing brands and switching oil all the time. One "all around oil" for all I mentioned I felt was the Mobil 1 0w40. Then I am thinking about that $400 valve cleaning job down the road and think....504??? haha
Trolling.gif


I Do know Redline recommends their standard 5w30 and they told me the "Euro" Low Saps was meant for Diesels. We all know I can use it. I am just debating if I should. My next OC will be due before EDYVW has his UOA done of his ESP Mobil 1 Oil. Im just debating what to put in next?

Jeff

If Mobil 1 ESP passed UOA with flying colors, then use it. It is in my wife's car. She drives on dry 50mph where 75mph is speed limit. Her longest commute is to gym, which is 8min away. So I have to take Tig sometimes to rev it up to redline in order to get that gas out, and put some life in it.
So if this Mobil 1 ESP proves good in her car, then we know it is OK.
In my car is different story. I might try Redline Euro and see how it holds. Granted, my car is out of warranty, that is why I went with Mobil 1 in my wife's car since it is still under warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Also just for my information is Pennzoil Ultra 5w40 considered "Mid Saps"?

Jeff

I don't think so. What's the definition of mid SAPS anyway?
 
Common understanding within the industry is the following. This could be argued looking at paper specs but this is the terms used within.

Low is below 0.7% ash
Mid SAPs is 0.8% Ash
High Ash is 1 % Ash
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX


I Do know Redline recommends their standard 5w30 and they told me the "Euro" Low Saps was meant for Diesels. We all know I can use it. I am just debating if I should. My next OC will be due before EDYVW has his UOA done of his ESP Mobil 1 Oil. Im just debating what to put in next?

Jeff



This is just my opinion, so take it for what it's worth...

In all I've heard and read about the DI intake valve deposit issue on many different makes and models that use DI engines in North America, I would think that you have absolutely nothing to lose by trying a 504/507 oil in your GTI. This is especially confirmed by the fact that your manual allows for it, despite the 502/505 sticker under your hood.

So, if your intention is to reduce the 10k OCI specified by VW anyway, then I'd use Mobil 1 ESP without reservation. If it were my car, I'd likely go that route.

In terms of Redline, I think we can all agree that their products are usually nothing short of excellent, but we also know that they are not approved. So, while Redline's Euro oils are probably excellent products, they have not passed any formal 504/507 testing, which I believe would include such VW engine tests to confirm valve deposit buildup amounts are less than the specified maximum. So while Redline may offer you all the protection you need and then some, if something is not quite right with the formulation, you still may get valve deposits.

Go with something approved and proven just for the assurance that you gave it your best effort. Also, if something should happen to the car (especially considering auto-x use) I wouldn't want to give VW any excuse to have an out on the warranty.

Just my 2 cents
cheers3.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Well the discussion here has really been interesting. I have never really thought of our (our being the USA) gas as being "bad" as compared to other countries (low sulfur). I understand that the "Euro" Low SAPS oils are primarily for the EU market. Here in the USA though, I am sure you can use them as long as you keep an eye on your used oil analysis to know how long you can actually go. 3-5k miles max I am sure.

Jeffs2006EvoIX, BITOG is usually a good site, but unfortunately, in this thread, a lot of myth has been passed just for the sake of argument and trying to prove a personal point, with no interest in a productive discussion.

Gas in California has 10 ppm sulfur -- same as Euro V and Euro VI, the latest Euro standards. Gas elsewhere in US has 30 ppm sulfur -- lower than the 50 ppm Euro IV standard that was in effect until 2008.

ILSAC/API has neither a minimum nor a maximum specified for sulphated ash for gasoline-engine oils. So, according to the logic that the gas in US is high-sulfur so that a high-SAPS oil must be used in US to prevent your gasoline engine from being ruined by sulfur-induced acids after 5,000 miles of oil use, no oil certified by ILSAC/API would protect your engine from being ruined. What kind of logic is that?

Most oils sold in US have sulphated ash around 0.8% - 1.0%. This is not really considered high-SAPS.

Sulfur in fuel is mostly a concern for diesel-engine oils. API CJ-4 has a 1.0% maximum on sulphated ash. API CJ-4 is intended for 15 ppm low-sulfur diesel fuel, which has now become the norm in US. It could also be used with up-to-500-ppm mid-sulfur diesel fuel. API CI-4 and CH-4 are good with up-to-5000-ppm high-sulfur diesel fuel.

So, to bring up sulfur in gasoline in US for motor oil used in gasoline engines is plain nonsense. Japan has the same 10 ppm sulfur standards for gasoline as in Europe and California and ILSAC is a joint US/Japanese consortium that makes the single ILSAC spec in US and Japan for gasoline-engine oils in US and Japan.

What has been failed to be mentioned is the TBN's relation with sulphated ash and TBN retention. TBN needs to stay above 1.0 during the OCI for the oil to provide protection against corrosion. For long OCIs, you need a high initial TBN. High initial TBN requires higher sulphated ash (more detergents), as the detergents are bases that increase the TBN to fight the acids. What is also very important is the so-called TBN-retention properties of the detergents being used, as some detergents can retain the TBN more longer.

You can use a VW 504.00 oil in a gasoline engine instead of a VW 502.00 oil just fine. For very long OCIs with older gasoline engines, use an ACEA A3/B4 oil that has an high initial TBN and made from a quality base stock (such as Mobil 1 0W-40). As I said, TBN retention of the detergents used in the additive package is also as important as the initial TBN. Low-SAPS oils are primarily needed to protect the diesel particulate filters and you must use them whenever specified, whether for a gasoline or a diesel engine.

High-SAPS is becoming a thing of the past. High-SAPS is primarily the ACEA A3/B4 category that provides high initial TBN, a category that seems to be slowly becoming outdated.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan

BITOG is usually a good site, but unfortunately, in this thread, a lot of myth has been passed just for the sake of argument and trying to prove a personal point, with no interest in a productive discussion.


This has been a very productive discussion, and the OP has learned a lot no thanks to your constant obfuscation of the discussion at hand.

It can be seen from your other threads like "Toyota 0W20 must be made in heaven" in which the scientific rigour is nothing short of astounding (that was sarcasm in case you couldn't tell).


Originally Posted By: Gokhan

Gas in California has 10 ppm sulfur -- same as Euro V and Euro VI, the latest Euro standards. Gas elsewhere in US has 30 ppm sulfur


So by your own admission, you state that the gas available in the US and Canada (except for California) contains 3 times the amount of sulphur when compared to Western European fuel. Point made.

This also has further implications in that D.I. vehicles made by European manufacturers for the NA market cannot come equipped with stratified lean burn due to fuel quality and NOx regulations. This further exaggerates the issue of intake deposits, which is clearly identified in many, many previous posts on this site, and now a Lubrizol presentation that was posted. Lubrizol directly attributes that to SAPS additives in oils.

Originally Posted By: Gokhan

ILSAC/API has neither a minimum nor a maximum specified for sulphated ash for gasoline-engine oils. So, according to the logic that the gas in US is high-sulfur so that a high-SAPS oil must be used in US to prevent your gasoline engine from being ruined by sulfur-induced acids after 5,000 miles of oil use, no oil certified by ILSAC/API would protect your engine from being ruined. What kind of logic is that?


And what kind of logic are you using when you discuss ILSAC and API with respect to a GERMAN vehicle that has its own specifications, and is setup for drain intervals of 10k (sometimes longer). My vehicle specifies 12.5k mile intervals which I do follow.

Oils for these vehicles are going to be approved to manufacturer specifications rather than ILSAC or API. These will include ACEA specs as a baseline with any modifications or additions deemed necessary by the manufacturers. And these very manufacturers are stating in black and white that higher SAPS oils for gasoline engines in NA are required. They do this despite their desire to recommend standard oils across all countries because of our fuel quality (California excluded).


Originally Posted By: Gokhan

What has been failed to be mentioned is the TBN's relation with sulphated ash and TBN retention. TBN needs to stay above 1.0 during the OCI for the oil to provide protection against corrosion. For long OCIs, you need a high initial TBN. High initial TBN requires higher sulphated ash (more detergents), as the detergents are bases that increase the TBN to fight the acids. What is also very important is the so-called TBN-retention properties of the detergents being used, as some detergents can retain the TBN more longer.


I guess you just like to hear yourself talk (or type so to speak). Everyone here, including the OP clearly understands the relationship between TBN and sulphated ash. That's why we are having this discussion in the first place. So, is a 10k OCI (or 12.5k in my case) long enough to worry about the starting TBN and TBN retention in a low-SAPS product? I think YES. I wouldn't run 12.5k with a low-saps oil in my car, but I'm happy to use Mobil 1 0W40 for the entire drain interval with ~1.3% SAPS (quite high). That is the basis of this discussion in relation to the OP's dilemma...

High-SAPS oil for TBN retention over long OCI's, or low-SAPS oil for minimization of valve deposits at the expense of OCI length. That is the question at hand here...

Originally Posted By: Gokhan

High-SAPS is becoming a thing of the past. High-SAPS is primarily the ACEA A3/B4 category that provides high initial TBN, a category that seems to be slowly becoming outdated.


As long as our fuel continues to have higher sulphur levels than comparable EU countries, then high-SAPS oils will continue to be in production. Don't kid yourself.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom