Yes I was considering a libricant to mix with my fuel. I have read of people useing 2-stroke oil at 200-500:1 I have to admit at first it did seem unnecessary but after think for a bit I may try MMO or a2-stroke oil. Any recommendations for brand and quanity?
aluminum bore briggs-expected life
- Thread starter morrison250r
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My grandfather has had the same snoblower for coming up on 25 years now. It is an aluminum bore Briggs Flathead, a big sucker too, don't remember the CC rating offhand, but it's been going forever, and it works fine, and he rarely ever changed the oil in it. Simply use a good 0W-30/40 or 5W-30/40 synthetic oil and change every season. For the gas, mix in ~1 oz of MMO per 2 gallons in the gas can and your set.
I guess I've never put much thought into the makeup of the cylinder bore in small consumer grade, single cylinder powered OPE. My Kohler K's are all iron to begin with. My Kohler Command V-twins have liners, etc.. On the liner-less ones, I doubt it's just bare aluminum. You'd think the cross-hatching would be wiped out within minutes of run time. It's probably treated/coated. Regardless, like said, even the cheapest OPE engines outlast the majority of the equipment they power.
Joel
Joel
Well in ideal conditions, the rings would not touch the cyl walls because of the oil film. This is an oil forum, remember?
Then I know the cyls get polished but with proper lube, the aluminum engines would have an ok life expectancy. But take care, cold starting the blower, the engine will be at risk. Can you keep it inside? Use robust 5w-x or 0w-x oil and maybe some 2t oil in the fuel.
Then I know the cyls get polished but with proper lube, the aluminum engines would have an ok life expectancy. But take care, cold starting the blower, the engine will be at risk. Can you keep it inside? Use robust 5w-x or 0w-x oil and maybe some 2t oil in the fuel.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I don't think it has a sleeve..it's just an aluminum bore. The reason they use a aluminum block is because it's lighter... and the reason they use a C.I. sleeve is because aluminum is soft and is not wear resistant.
Exactly,.... thanks for helping him word it right. Is the question how long the cool bore alloy engine lasts, or how long an alloy engine with a cast iron sleeve lasts? There is some creative marketing language around the cool bore engines.
I would bet the ranch the CI sleeve is more durable, but science, engineering and data could prove me wrong, and marketing right. Generally, sleeveless engines have been on low end consumer products.
I don't think it has a sleeve..it's just an aluminum bore. The reason they use a aluminum block is because it's lighter... and the reason they use a C.I. sleeve is because aluminum is soft and is not wear resistant.
Exactly,.... thanks for helping him word it right. Is the question how long the cool bore alloy engine lasts, or how long an alloy engine with a cast iron sleeve lasts? There is some creative marketing language around the cool bore engines.
I would bet the ranch the CI sleeve is more durable, but science, engineering and data could prove me wrong, and marketing right. Generally, sleeveless engines have been on low end consumer products.
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Well I am using M1 5w-30 syn. right now because that is what I have extra of. I always let it warm up for 10 minutes at a slow speed (~1700-2000 r.p.m.) before using the engine under load.
Originally Posted By: JTK
I guess I've never put much thought into the makeup of the cylinder bore in small consumer grade, single cylinder powered OPE. My Kohler K's are all iron to begin with. My Kohler Command V-twins have liners, etc.. On the liner-less ones, I doubt it's just bare aluminum. You'd think the cross-hatching would be wiped out within minutes of run time. It's probably treated/coated. Regardless, like said, even the cheapest OPE engines outlast the majority of the equipment they power.
Joel
Alright, so I'm an idiot. I can't be the only one....can I?
W.T.F. is an OPE engine????
I guess I've never put much thought into the makeup of the cylinder bore in small consumer grade, single cylinder powered OPE. My Kohler K's are all iron to begin with. My Kohler Command V-twins have liners, etc.. On the liner-less ones, I doubt it's just bare aluminum. You'd think the cross-hatching would be wiped out within minutes of run time. It's probably treated/coated. Regardless, like said, even the cheapest OPE engines outlast the majority of the equipment they power.
Joel
Alright, so I'm an idiot. I can't be the only one....can I?
W.T.F. is an OPE engine????
Hurray! I can finally answer one!
OPE = Outdoor Power Equipment
check out this site:
http://www.opeonthenet.com/phpBB2/index.php
Members there are as passionate about their OPE as people here are about oil.
Dale
OPE = Outdoor Power Equipment
check out this site:
http://www.opeonthenet.com/phpBB2/index.php
Members there are as passionate about their OPE as people here are about oil.
Dale
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Outdoor Power Equipment??
Originally Posted By: DaleW
Hurray! I can finally answer one!
OPE = Outdoor Power Equipment
check out this site:
http://www.opeonthenet.com/phpBB2/index.php
Members there are as passionate about their OPE as people here are about oil.
Dale
Hurray! I can finally answer one!
OPE = Outdoor Power Equipment
check out this site:
http://www.opeonthenet.com/phpBB2/index.php
Members there are as passionate about their OPE as people here are about oil.
Dale
HeHe, Hey Bigdreama
Thanks for the accolade. I have lurked here for a LONG time, and have gotten much usefull information from the members. It is a nice feeling to be able to contribute, even a little.
On another note, my family just got back to icy Milwaukee from a week in the Orlando area. Sure was nice down there. Sunny, warm, ohhhhhh not like here.
Have a great Holiday
Dale
Thanks for the accolade. I have lurked here for a LONG time, and have gotten much usefull information from the members. It is a nice feeling to be able to contribute, even a little.
On another note, my family just got back to icy Milwaukee from a week in the Orlando area. Sure was nice down there. Sunny, warm, ohhhhhh not like here.
Have a great Holiday
Dale
C.I. sleeved engines are better than aluminum. However the aluminum engines are pretty good, and I think they use some alloy in the aluminum or something to resist scuffing and wear. If you plan on using a machine day in and day out for professional snow removal C.I. is the way to go. For a homeowner the aluminum engine will last a very long time if peoperly maintained.
Here is an example of the coating (nickel-silicon) used in aluminum cylinder bores:
http://www.ncccoat.com/
http://www.ncccoat.com/
The Aluminium "Kool Bore" B&S engines last about 200 hours acording to B&S. The steel sleive engines should go 2000 hours I would think. Most of the time the alumium engines will last as long as the equipment they are installed in. Designed for a lower price point application
Originally Posted By: MegaCorp
The Aluminium "Kool Bore" B&S engines last about 200 hours acording to B&S...
That's for emissions compliance, not engine life.
Joel
The Aluminium "Kool Bore" B&S engines last about 200 hours acording to B&S...
That's for emissions compliance, not engine life.
Joel
Anyone know the emissions rating for either the snow series max or subaru snowblower engine? My snow series says on the sticker on the fuel tank that it is "c" rated which which means that it is certified for 250 hours. After 250 hours I assume that it will no longer pass because of engine wear. 250 hours will last me 7 to maybe 10 years. I hope that I get more run time that that before it begine to burn excess oil and fuel.
My snowblower is a 1973 and 2 years ago it needed rebuilt. Thats pretty good for aluminum bore. Key is to use a light oil in the winter, and make sure to throttle up so the dipper will splash the oil around. If you idle, the splash may not reach the cylinder until it warms up. 5w-20 or 5w-30 is fine. Maybe a 0w-20 or 30 syntetic as well.
I was wondering about starting and warm up engine speed. The manual says to start at full throttle but after about five seconds I reduce speed to 2300 or so.
Also how many hours do you think your engine lasted?
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