when deposits gets too dark and deep roasted, removal gets way harder.
obey long oci, get screwed later..
obey long oci, get screwed later..
Why would one spend money on synthetic oil and then spend more money to pour garbage in on top of it? No oil will fix a mechanical problem, especially when that problem is bad piston rings. At best one could minimize oil burning with a high KV100…You could try switching to a full synthetic high mileage oil and try Lucas Pure Synthetic oil stabilizer. But that is some pretty bad oil consumption.
BG without hesitation. Soak pistons with GM top engine cleaner before hand if available as well.Can anybody respond to my query above??
Lucas is not garbage, nobody claimed it will "fix" a mechanical problem, it can however help band-aid it along and slow the oil burning.Why would one spend money on synthetic oil and then spend more money to pour garbage in on top of it? No oil will fix a mechanical problem, especially when that problem is bad piston rings. At best one could minimize oil burning with a high KV100…
I’d try Rotella T4 long before I spent a penny on anything Lucas. You may want to do some research on Lucas and ask some folks what “bright stock” is, and ask why Lucas uses so much of it.Lucas is not garbage, nobody claimed it will "fix" a mechanical problem, it can however help band-aid it along and slow the oil burning.
Lucas is absolutely garbage.Lucas is not garbage, nobody claimed it will "fix" a mechanical problem, it can however help band-aid it along and slow the oil burning.
Enjoy your opinion.Lucas is absolutely garbage.
Do you know what's in (or not in) Lucas?Enjoy your opinion.
MolaKule said:It is a cheap OlefinCopolymer and doesn't add anything to the oil except to make it thicker.
Agree.Lucas is absolutely garbage.
wouldn’t use it even if it was freeDo you know what's in (or not in) Lucas?
VOA data from this thread:
Here is the skinny on LOS
Unless listed all are 'Zero'
Lucas Virgin
TBN - 0.1
Visc - 615.3
FP - 435
Calcium - 3
Magnesium - 1
Phosphorus - 4
Zinc - 2
So, it's insanely heavy with zero anti-wear additives. As our resident expert tribologist @MolaKule has noted:
Basically, the non-synthetic version is just some heavy Group I brightstock (so, the cheapest possible base oil) with a massive amount of cheap VII polymer dumped into it and some bar-oil tackifier so that it appears "clingy".
This will do two things:
1. It will increase your viscosity
2. It will dilute and make your additive package less effective
The cheap VII polymer and Group I will also increase the propensity for deposits.
The "synthetic" version is basically the same thing, but the bright stock is replaced with a lighter Group III and so instead of being 110cSt at 100C, it's like 45cSt.
Fill it with dynamite and push the plunger.
Was only joking buddy but it does sound like the rings are shot and will need replacing if you plan to keep the car for a while.Thanks, not helpful.
FYI I'm not planning to use Lucas. Maybe we can keep that bashing to a different thread(s).
Hoping the treatment will at least get me back past the 1qt/1000mi mark -- I could live with that.
Rings shot or perhaps oil return holes plugged shut, with rings stuck. Same fix, replace rings (and maybe pistons, or at least drill them out).Was only joking buddy but it does sound like the rings are shot and will need replacing if you plan to keep the car for a while.
If it's the same problem as @michaelluscher then a few soaks (Kreen is another product that @Trav has recommended in the past for that purpose) should help get it down. At that point, it would then make sense to start using the @High Performance Lubricants engine cleaner to less harshly remove the less critical deposits.Thanks, not helpful.
FYI I'm not planning to use Lucas. Maybe we can keep that bashing to a different thread(s).
Hoping the treatment will at least get me back past the 1qt/1000mi mark -- I could live with that.
All goodWas only joking buddy but it does sound like the rings are shot and will need replacing if you plan to keep the car for a while.