Additive for oil consumption - Toyota 1AR-FE

Valvoline premium blue restore in 10w30 if you can find it.

If not, any other premium oil that has a significant quantity of PAO and POE. Redline HP 5w30, Rowe Hitech synth RS, Ravenol SSL, Etc…
 
Valvoline premium blue restore in 10w30 if you can find it.

If not, any other premium oil that has a significant quantity of PAO and POE. Redline HP 5w30, Rowe Hitech synth RS, Ravenol SSL, Etc…
These days I'd just run whatever oil with HPL Engine Cleaner at a 4:1 to 5:1 ratio, I think Valvoline/Cummins may have discontinued VPBR since it was meant to address a specific problem with certain years of Cummins ISX engines which at this point should have been overhauled and have the updated rings and pistons that shouldn't get gummed up.
 
I'd try some Liquimoly Engine Flush next oil change. It's about $10 and easy to use/no harm in trying...been shown to improve consumption on some VWs. Follow that up with adding a bottle of the HPL engine cleaner to the new oil an running that for 2K and change it out again.
 
It's perfectly adequate, but my standards are low. If it didn't burn oil it would be the perfect van LOL

150k is all. Since I add so much I change it at 10k.
Were you doing 10k oil changes prior to this happening as well? I say it all of the time extended oil change intervals are BS, people think that just because their oil analysis come out fine that they can go extended oil change intervals but it is clear they are not the ones having to dig into engines that go these extended intervals.
 
The PCV valve is hard to get to on these engines.

If you did 10K oil changes it probably to late to do anything about it. The walls are probabbly scored. Those engines do not like extended OCIs.

If it is a gummed up oil control ring, I would do something like first BG109 and if it does not improve the full BG service.

i would follow the BG109 with a run of HP EC, or HPL OIL if there is no sludge, might just free up that ring.

YMMV
 
I've only had the van since 130k. I don't know the exact history of its oil changes, but it seems like it was well cared for.

My preference would be to stick to 5k intervals, but I am doing 10k for now since I add so darn much oil.

Here's my plan:

- Change PCV
- Run BG 109 engine flush
- Switch to 15W40

I'll monitor consumption rate and then report back. Next step would be a piston soak.

Thanks for all the ideas folks.
 
The PCV valve is hard to get to on these engines.

If you did 10K oil changes it probably to late to do anything about it. The walls are probabbly scored. Those engines do not like extended OCIs.

If it is a gummed up oil control ring, I would do something like first BG109 and if it does not improve the full BG service.

i would follow the BG109 with a run of HP EC, or HPL OIL if there is no sludge, might just free up that ring.

YMMV

Lol why would the walls be scored just because of 10k intervals. Just a bad engine. Because Toyotas are so great right? I’ve done 7500, 10000, even longer OCIs on my 2.5 Escape. And it burns 0 oil. I love how people are blaming the user instead of the engine design.

Anyway, I support the idea of a piston soak. Try b12 it seems to be strong stuff. Then put an engine flush in the oil, run it for 10m, then dump it. Wouldn’t bother with super thick oil yet, see if those things improved it. If not, sure, 20w-50 that thing. And yes change the pcv valve.
 
I'd try some Liquimoly Engine Flush next oil change. It's about $10 and easy to use/no harm in trying...been shown to improve consumption on some VWs. Follow that up with adding a bottle of the HPL engine cleaner to the new oil an running that for 2K and change it out again.
The perfect solution for cleaning the engine from the inside. Washes away black sludge and other dirt and debris. Increases the operational reliability of the engine and avoids insufficient lubrication. Gently cleans oil bores, oil screens, piston ring grooves and channels and prevents engine damage.

Suitable for all commercially available engine oils in petrol and diesel engines with and without diesel particle filters (DPF). Turbo and Kat tested. Addition about 200 km before the oil change. Can content is sufficient for up to 5 l engine oil. Can be used without hesitation in vehicles with toothed belts running in oil. Not suitable for motorcycles with a wet clutch.
 
I wrote up my experience with an oil burning 2AZ in a high mileage Scion xB², you should look it over

 
My Toyota 2.7L 1AR engine uses a lot of oil. Like a quart per 500 miles or worse. It runs very well, is smooth, and gets good mileage. I know this engine has the issue with low-tension piston rings so I've assumed this is consumption past the rings but I suppose I can't rule out valve stem seals.

I'm already running 5 or 10w-30 rather than 0w-20. Is it worth trying an additive to slow consumption rate? Any improvement would be nice.
Liquimoly proline engine flush
BG EPR
Z-max

Take your pick.
All have worked for me in the past to clean gummed up piston rings.
 
The PCV valve is hard to get to on these engines.

If you did 10K oil changes it probably to late to do anything about it. The walls are probabbly scored. Those engines do not like extended OCIs.

If it is a gummed up oil control ring, I would do something like first BG109 and if it does not improve the full BG service.

i would follow the BG109 with a run of HP EC, or HPL OIL if there is no sludge, might just free up that ring.

YMMV
BG 109 is EPR now.
 
My Element was a burner, not as bad as yours but bad enough. Did piston soak, Rislone a couple times, Gumout Multi-System Tune Up in the oil several x's- 500 miles before oci, HPL EC30 for 5k oci and consumption is way down but not gone. Used Maxlife red and syn, Mobil HM, QS HM and QSFS in 5w20 & 5w30 before moving to the PP. Was using PP Euro 0w40 at the last oci and it was about 20oz at 3000 miles, some was a minor leak at VTEC gasket I believe. Just put Motul Xclean 5w40 in it and will see how it does over the next 5k oci. Couple options for you but definitely start w PCV and piston soak and do 3-5k oci's. Keep us updated and good luck
 
I wrote up my experience with an oil burning 2AZ in a high mileage Scion xB², you should look it over

That thread is really long, would it be possible for you to give us the Cliff Notes Version?
 
That thread is really long, would it be possible for you to give us the Cliff Notes Version?
Piston soaks with B12 chemtool and a penetrating oil of your choice
Idle flushes with cheap oil
HPL engine cleaner
PCV valve and hose replacement
More piston soaks
Short OCIs with an oil that's known to clean slightly better than average
 
Piston soaks with B12 chemtool and a penetrating oil of your choice
Idle flushes with cheap oil
HPL engine cleaner
PCV valve and hose replacement
More piston soaks
Short OCIs with an oil that's known to clean slightly better than average
Thanks for the short version, how is your oil consumption issue?
 
Took it from 1qt in less than 500 miles to 1qt every 2000-2500 miles

But my engine has 290k on it

Lower milage engines should do better

I will take the time to read your Thread, I do not know if you used BG EPR109. It sounds like you have your oil consumption under control. We do not know what oil was used before you bought this car. If you have not used the BG EPR109 it is worth a shot, drain your oil, put in some Cheap 10w-30 oil and a new oil filter and get the car hot, add the EPR109 and let it idle for like 20 to 30 minutes, drain the oil and you might be surprised.

You could always try 1 of the HPL oils and see what happens. There oils have from what I have read some good cleaning abilities.
 
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