Is it burning or leaking? At 205k, if that engine has not had the known leakage problems fixed, I'd look there first.
Also: I have an oil burner I've done the "add, not replace thing" on with great results. Read on.
The 1mz-fe in that is a great engine - the rear bank VCGs and cam seals can become big oil leaks if never replaced. From the start, they start to fail after 100k (on the rear bank, bank "2"). The oil that leaks hangs in the frame, blows off in driving, and you never see big spots unless the car sits long periods. Have you checked this? The rear bank runs really hot and cooks seals/gaskets because of the design. We have a 2002 Lexus ES, and i've serviced a lot of similar Toyota/Lexus products with engine and it normally "burns" little oil - I do not add ANY in 7.5k OCIs on our own car when I fix the leaks, even after 300k+ miles. When usage creeps up, \I know it's time to change the rear valve cover, PCV valve, etc. If you've never done this, it will create massive oil loss in that engine.
As to "add not replace," I have another "fleet vehicle" that has a very in-built oil usage issue - inadequate ring and piston skirt drainage that hold oil in the ring area and create usage and carbonization (an increasing circle). After years of pumping oil into it and many chemical treatments, what finally tamed it all was a) Feeding it high-quality 10w-30 synthetic, and b) Lubegard (ester oil additive). Oil consumtion has declined dramatically and continues to do so. Along the way, I just kept feeding it oil and never changing it, no problem. I used a fram Ultra for insurance and changed it twice as often as fram recommends - e.g., every 10k vs 20+k. ; Things worked out great.
OTOH, a high-oil burning 1mz-fe can be from serious abuse/oil neglect and there may be something going on internally. i'd do a compression check to see which path I wanted to take. These are not natively high oil-use engines, and that's actually a fair bit for that engine - though not entirely unreasonable among "all engines."