'Old' oil in engine over 5 month winter storage. Start engine before change or no?

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Mar 12, 2025
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I was a bad boy and didn't change the oil in our 987.2 last year at all. A combination of low mileage and simple forgetfulness led me to just tuck it away in storage (Nov-March, indoors, but not climate controlled) with the 'old' oil still in the car which now dates 18 months and 2,000 miles old. I know that's nothing crazy but trying to right my wrongs as it's spring time and I'm ready to jailbreak the car.

My question is would it be better to start the engine and run the car to burn any water off/circulate things and THEN change the oil or change the oil before even starting the car.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Gotcha. Out of curiosity, why so, just because of the low mileage on the oil overall? If it's just a bit of moisture in there I suppose it would burn off after a long drive?
 
I really appreciate the heads up. I was stressed about this 'bad' oil sitting in there but I guess 2k's worth of mileage and 18 months really ain't that bad after all.
 
I have the oil change kit ready and waiting so it's really no stress to change. And honestly just for peace of mind I'm going to do it anyway very soon. I was more curious from a 'what's better scenario' of changing the oil BEFORE starting the engine after sitting all winter or running up it up to temperature and then doing a change.
 
I have the oil change kit ready and waiting so it's really no stress to change. And honestly just for peace of mind I'm going to do it anyway very soon. I was more curious from a 'what's better scenario' of changing the oil BEFORE starting the engine after sitting all winter or running up it up to temperature and then doing a change.
I’v done both for longer term sitting situations. But my preferred is to do it first thing before starting it up.
 
Gotcha! I imagine it would be one heck of a 'dry' startup after sitting for 5 months AND draining all the fluids. I could try to fill the oil canister the best I can before screwing it back on and it is a flat 6 so I guess in theory not as far for the fluid to travel vs a tall upright engine.
 
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I have the oil change kit ready and waiting so it's really no stress to change. And honestly just for peace of mind I'm going to do it anyway very soon. I was more curious from a 'what's better scenario' of changing the oil BEFORE starting the engine after sitting all winter or running up it up to temperature and then doing a change.
IT's always better to change oil hot.


But since you're starting the car with the existing oil anyway (to do this), the question is: when you come back with a warm engine, you'll have good oil with 2000 miles on it.

Unless you used Wesson as your storage oil, it didn't degrade just sitting there. Drive it and enjoy this summer, then give it a good hot change before storing it for next year. Don't forget the battery tender and fuel preservative (in a full tank).
 
Gotcha! I imagine it would be one heck of a 'dry' startup after sitting for 5 months AND draining all the fluids. I could try to fill the oil canister the best I can before screwing it back on and it is a flat 6 so I guess in theory not as far for the fluid to travel vs a tall upright engine.

You will never experience a “dry start” because there will always be a film of oil that stays on all of the internal parts of your engine, even if it hadn’t been started for many years.
 
I like to warm up the engine before changing my oil so the oil drains fast while holding any contaminants in suspension. This works well for daily drivers with longer oil change intervals where the oil is actually dirty. I'm not sure it matters much in your situation with a very short OCI (in miles) as the oil should still be pretty clean. So basically, start or no start, do whichever you are most comfortable with.
 
(Nice to see another 987.2 owner in the wild!)
Biased but the best gen IMO!

Thanks again all! I probably just have a bit too much mechanical sympathy and overthinking it here. I'll probably take it out for a decent drive to get everything nice and hot and then do a change.
 
You will never experience a “dry start” because there will always be a film of oil that stays on all of the internal parts of your engine, even if it hadn’t been started for many years.
I used to think this, too. But I had an experience at work that completely shattered my worldview on motor oil as a preservative.

No secret, I work with the large industrial Cummins engines. A customer of ours has ships they use to service offshore oil drilling rigs. These ships have up to SEVEN of our 50L V16s aboard (at a conservative 2000hp each) and look like this:

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They reached out to me because they had experienced several camshaft failures on boats that had come out of drydock. In the course of their own investigation, they managed to document photographically that several of the camshafts on on vessels still in drydock had flashed surface rust between the lobes.

The engines were running fine while at sea and no evidence of internal corrosion was ever documented while in service. The engines weren't touched during drydock, but they did sit for months on end immediately near seawater with just the residual oil film from engine operation to protect them.

The first time you see rust INSIDE an engine that has been running fine for years up until it sat unused for months, you too will probably question just how good a preservative is engine oil film for prolonged storage.

There are engine preservative oils made for the purpose of preventing internal engine corrosion (VP/Royal purple have one. Cummins recommends Tectyl 900 for storage).


These products are necessary because engine oil alone is not a long term preservative. How long is long term? I personally think engine oil is good for maybe 6 months. I wouldn't go longer than that on regular engine oil.
 
I used to think this, too. But I had an experience at work that completely shattered my worldview on motor oil as a preservative.
That's very interesting. Good to know!

I also had some experience with motorcycles....

Growing up, I kept my motorcycle in my Dad's detached garage. It was a wood framed, unfinished garage. I never had any issues with condensation or rust on anything in that garage.
A friend in the same neighborhood kept his in a large metal shed. He always had rust issues on his motorcycle.
The weather, fog, humidity, conditions were basically the same as we were in the same neighborhood. The only difference I can think of is that the wooden garage with exposed studs and slats helped to keep condensing humidity at bay by absorbing moisture, as opposed to the metal shed that had nothing to offer other than protection from direct rain.

My take away from this is that where you store stuff matters as much as how you store stuff.
 
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