Added Lubegard Bio-tech; testing MPG

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Originally Posted By: spiderbypass
I added Lubeguard Bio-Tech awhile back to Redline 5W 20 in my Honda Accord. oil analysis suggested there is a high degree of phosphorus as my phosphorus levels was 1900 and it doubled the Moly content in the redline oil. I use Lucard black with Refline D4 in my wife's 2003 Honda accord with the automatic transmission. She has 170,000 miles on the car with great shifting. I once tried the newest premium Lubeguard additive to the redline D4 and a car's transmission slipping.


Can you post the UOA? I've always been very curious as to the moly content of Biotech.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
What was MPG with similar trip(s) before adding Lubegard Bio-tech ?


I have not taken too many in recent years.

But if I recall correctly it was between ~29 and 31 MPG (but I was also using a higher HTHS/lower VI oil Red Line 5W-30, or Amsoil HDD Series 3000 5W-30 at that time, so??
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I just want to learn how much improvement in MPG that can be attributed to Lubegard Bio-tech, If you had similar trips with similar average MPH and the same oil type/weight then most of the difference in MPG can be given to Bio-tech.
 
Not sure how to copy. It was from june 29 2009. It is on page two of my posts. There were two runs of redline 5w20 from same 12 quart case. The lubeguard run increased phosphorous and moly notably. I also ran auto rx both times.
 
Midway Auto Supply, Inc. out of Dallas, TX I order the 10oz. bottles for $12.33 shipped within a day usually. This is the cheapest I could find. If you know of a better deal please respond and thanks for your time.
 
Amazon has better price on Bio-Tech (and other Lubegard products), for 10 oz bottle part# 30902 the price is $10.57, for 15 oz bottle part# 30901 the price is $12.35, for 32 oz bottle part# 40902 the price is $19.01 and this quart size is the best deal, but all are temporary out of stock. All three size are qualified for free shipping for order of $25 or more.
 
I made a SUPER top-up 'swill' in my empty Motul can with;

1/2 quart of Red Line 0W-40, full 15 oz. bottle of Bio Tech, full 12 oz. bottle of Torco SEP, and ~ 4 ounces of Red Line Break In additive.

If the level gets a little down near the middle-end of this OCI, I will top-up with this brew.

Let the anti-additive flamefest begin!!!
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Any Lubegard Bio-Tech updates?...I just added some some my homemade Shell oil brew! She's running SMOOTH.
 
I agree lubegard bio tech is some great stuff!! so is archoil's ar9100 for a lot of boron nano esters compliments red line increase in boron in their oil..red line already has 150ppm in their new brew..not sure how much more archoil ar 9100 increases that...I will find out....lubegard has good amt of boron in it also plus tons of moly.
 
Originally Posted By: boxcartommie22
I agree lubegard bio tech is some great stuff!!


I agree with you about Biotech EP. I don't know enough about the Archoil product yet to comment one way or another at this point.
 
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Originally Posted By: Demarpaint
LUBEGARD provides a concentrated package that fulfills these deficiencies (without adding ZDDP, Chlorine, inappropriate sludge building additives like PTFE or solid lubricants such as Teflon®, graphite or molybdenum disulphide.)


Thats interesting. This has been my major concern with Moly and it might explain this..
Its not liquefied sludge, it has that green tint to it and this engine had used MoS2 quite a few times albeit a long time and many OC ago.
Just to clarify the picture. This was on the bottom of the pan and did not mix into the oil, it looks like drop out that just accumulated over time. No sludge in the engine.
I tilted the pan to show the green tint.

I am not trying to start a anti MoS2 war, i wont engage in one. I have no dog in that fight. Its just a picture of what i found in the pan.
It does create more uncertainty of the fall out issue though, i think a liquid additive like the Lubeguard may be a better solution if such products are used.
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I been saying this for along time what we found people using mos2 in their vehicles is the grayish fall out sits at the bottom of pan..mos2 not designed for use in the engine!!!! use a good organic moly...lubegard bio tech is an organic moly such as in red line and other high end oils
 
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Trav- That could be the reason why LG stays away from those additives. That green tint is very interesting though, and is really tossing a curve ball into the mix for me. I've never seen anything that color.
 
Pulling that pan was enlightening in a few ways. First was the amount of oil left in the pan when equipped with a Fumoto valve. Steve SRT8 has been saying for as long as i can remember that it doesn't allow complete drainage of the pan. He was/is correct.
Almost 1/2 of a qt was left after an overnight drain with the pan tiled towards the valve. I removed the Fumoto and got another 8 oz out of it tilted the same amount.

I thought about putting the valve back in because aftermarket pans are notorious for weak drain plug threads. The thickness of the welded "nut" in the new pan is 70% of OEM, the OEM pan rots like crazy and quickly or i would have gone OEM, unfortunately these are all NOS with no improvements in rust resistance.

I found that a pump yielded the same as removing the pan drain bolt on this engine, i pumped it out then removed the plug, nothing came out. So thats the plan, keep the plug in without ever removing it, warm the engine and pump it out.
 
What could have been green, though? Dosed my car with MoS2 and what would have otherwise been an amber shade on the dipstick, was a more grayish tint

So that stuff was across the bottom of the pan and you simply tilted to the one corner?

Fascinating... Would the likes of Blackstone be able to analyze/identify something like that?
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Pulling that pan was enlightening in a few ways. First was the amount of oil left in the pan when equipped with a Fumoto valve. Steve SRT8 has been saying for as long as i can remember that it doesn't allow complete drainage of the pan. He was/is correct.



That is precisely why I won't use a Fumoto valve.
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I fooled around them years ago and discovered simply by removing the valve a lot more oil came out. No thanks to that, and after fooling a bit more with the installation I scrapped the valve. I'm glad you mentioned this I was reluctant to.

I'd really like to know what that greenish mass is. MoS2 changed the tin of the oil to an amber[ish] silver but never anything like that.
 
The Lubegard products have always been some of the few supplements that I believe in. I used to use Lubegard Bio-Tech and the engines in my cars just seemed to run better after I added the Lubegard Bio-Tech. That was my impression. Obviously not a scientific test or anything.

I had good results with the Lubegard power steering supplement also. And I wanted to try the Lubegard engine flush.

I quit using the Lubegard Bio-Tech because it was expensive to use it every oil change. Maybe using a good synthetic oil is just as good. I don't know. As far as I know the Lubegard Bio-Tech is still available through NAPA. A person might have to order it through a NAPA Store.

I personally believe that over 90% of engine cleaners and oil supplements are junk. And a person certainly can just use quality motor oil. But Lubegard products, along with MMO and Kreen, are some of the very few products I believe in. I have used MMO in fuel and I have not used Kreen but I trust what Trav, a professional mechanic in Germany, says about Kreen.

For cleaning an engine a person can try MMO, Kreen, or use a flush like Amsoil or Lubegard.

For improved engine performance Lubegard Bio-Tech seems to work.
 
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