Addative Clash

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Has anyone here at BITOG ever experienced addative clash by mixing too many different brand/grades of oils. I've mixed over the years, many different brands and grades of oils together when doing an oil/filter change. I've have even mixed 5 different brand and 5 different weights(each brand was a different weight), all at the same time on an OCI. I've never noticed any change in performance or noises/sounds in the engine from one oil change to another. Maybe a slight change < > in MPG. And my engines all ran for quite a few hundred thousand miles with out even burning oil. I had a 68 Buick LeSabre and a 73 Chrysler New Port that never saw an OCI with the same 5qts of anything throughout their life with me. Any responces would be appreciated and even harsh comments are welcome.
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Your question appears to be hitting close to sacred ground on this forum!!

I personally would not mix viscosities, much less, brands of oils in a vehicle that I have diligent maintenance done on. I have been convinced ARX is the only thing needed to clean things up every once in a while, and thats all I would use.

Having said that, I have put different brands/viscosities in old beater ranch trucks over the years. I even put 1/2 qt of 90 weight in one because I did not want to open up another fresh bottle of regular oil. Also, back in the early 80's, I had an old 1965 Ford ranch truck that got only old drain oil from other vehicles, after that oil sat in a drain pan for a day or two. I remember it poured like water, and we poured it in through a funnel with a semi small hole to catch the crickets and grasshoppers that were unfortunate to jump in the oil as it sat. A lot of grit I am sure got added too. We used that old truck for hauling hay. The tires used to squat with a big load, so we filled the tires with water, like they do on tractors and such to add weight. Those tires did not squat, but rode like a rock. Thats the truck also that I jumped a hill in the pasture with and the motor shifted due to the mounts being bad, and the entire clutch linkage fell out, and I couldnt stop!!!! Almost went through a fence. Ah, to be young and stupid again..........
 
We're not talking about "Clash of the Titans." I doubt you'd be able to see, hear, taste, or smell any difference. I don't believe anything horrible would happen but I can see how you may not get the same protection for a given OCI in some scenarios.
 
I think an additive clash would occur using a high mileage oil with oil supplements like Lucas, VSOT, SLOB.... etc. But just mixing a few brands of oil.... no. I think the only negative to mixing brands is ending-up with some weakened/diluted additives that show up in some brands - but not in others.

Just my amateur, backyard opinion.
 
I would think you should be least worried with SLOB if you're adding it to something that already uses zddp as it's primary aw/ao source.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ray H:
Additive clash is an over-rated concept that, at best, has a minimal to non-existant basis to reality. My last UOA (posted here) used five quarts of eight full or partially used disperate brands and API ratings (from SG through SL) that I literally stumbled on while cleaning out my garage. The only commonality was that all were 10w30. It was my Hyundai V6's best UOA to date. I wouldn't go out of my way to repeat the occurence, but the bogus issue of "additive clash" is nothing to obsess over, either.

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What Ray Says.
bruce
 
Well, from what I understand, the key word is most. If I were to BE concerned, I would think the biggest chance would be mixing different API grades. Like I said, IF!

Bruce, do you think there's anything to that, ie older addy packs mixed with newer? Not that it would HARM anything, just that it may not protect as well?

This question from someone who recently mixed Castrol GTX, Mobil 1, Rotella T Synth, and Lucas.
 
Only problem I see is if you used incompatible base oil/VII combination like if you used a ester oil then added a bottle of OCP VII maybe like lucas then you would get lumpy oil which may or maynot solubilze when hot.

BUT that said if you use an ester oil and add in a few quarts of say Chevron with a OCP VII the amounts then are so small there would be no problems.

So I guess any "clash" would be due to ouside sourced "additives" that are high in VII.
Also some "additives" are so far out (Chloro parraffin) is one and other NON tradtional additives that there could be problems with precipitaion of "stuff" that could cause problems.

Otherwise mix away with whatever brand you want will it hurt?? do not think anyone could tell.

Be advised that most blenders WILL change add paks and base oils due to supply shortages, shipping problems, off spec, pricing advantages etc. So sometime the "kown" brand is tweaked.

Also even with oils from the same blender do not always ASSUME that a say Chevron Supreme 30 wt will have the same add pak or base oil supply as say the Delo 30 wt or even the Supreme 10/30.

bruce
 
Additive clash is an over-rated concept that, at best, has a minimal to non-existant basis to reality. My last UOA (posted here) used five quarts of eight full or partially used disperate brands and API ratings (from SG through SL) that I literally stumbled on while cleaning out my garage. The only commonality was that all were 10w30. It was my Hyundai V6's best UOA to date. I wouldn't go out of my way to repeat the occurence, but the bogus issue of "additive clash" is nothing to obsess over, either.
 
My current mixes in both of my vehicles are:
'01 Lexus RX-300 '04 Nissan Altima 2.5
1qt M1 S.S. 5W30 1qt M1 S.S. 0W30
1qt Hav.Syn 10W30 1qt Hav.Syn 10W30
1qt STec Syn 5W30 1qt STec Syn 5W30
2qts HavDino 10W30 2qts HavDino 10W30
Puro Prem Plus Filt. Puro Prem Plus Filt.

So, there it is. Havoline Syn and Dino, Super Tech Syn, and Mobil 1 Super Syn were all used and I beleive that all are API SL GF-3. I have enough oil on hand til January 2008. This will pretty much be my oils for these cars til it runs out. I'll use more 5W30's in the mix as colder wheather approcahes. I still have yet to use any SM GF-4 oils only because I purchaced all of the SL GF-3 motor oils that I could get my hands on during the Auto Zone close out prices of $1.00 per qt on all their full Syn oils,(Group 3 or PAO).Couldn't find any GC at the time. I Purchaced all of the ST 5W30 Full Syn that I could when WalMart was eliminating the ST Syn 5W30 from the shelves. This ST Syn label states that it meets the Corvette, Viper and European spec(ACEA), and WalMart is now only stocking the ST Syn 10W30 in my area. And I also purchaced all of my Havoline dino oils on sale plus rebates to the tune of about 50 cents a qt.
 
Most oil MFGs blend their oil so that it's compatible with everybody else’s oil.
Maybe habit, common understanding, or, because one of their biggest customers demands it (Uncle Sam).
I would certainly imagine that the supplement makers would do the same.
 
What dwendt44 said. Some commonality to maintain compatibility would have to be a given in order to achieve specified API service ratings as well as avoid lawsuits from irate, glopped-up engine owners and automakers. The relationship of motor oil blenders and automakers is clearly that of each scratching the other's back - and neither wishes to run afoul of Uncle Sam's regulatory agencies or military procurement agencies. From the King Salmon Edition, 1st Book of John D. Rockefeller, 1st Chapter of Standard Oil, Verse I: "Verily, I say unto thee, what doth it profiteth an oil company if it gaineth the world and lootheth it'th contract-ths?"
 
I think the words "additive clash" suggest to some people that something hideous will happen to their motor if they mix the "wrong" oils together, when in reality the result is much more benign. No, you won't end up with spun bearings the moment you whirl the motor over, but what *may* happen is that one (or more) additives may not play well with others and you *may* end up with a brew that might not have the full beneficial properties that using just a single oil would have provided.
 
I did a mongrel change, 200 mile OCI, on a saturn I just re-ringed, to get any debris out of the motor.

1 qt supertech 10w40, 2 qt chevron supreme 10w40, and 1 qt ace hardware 5w30.

All were SL/SM, except the ace oil was SJ.

When I drained it, the usual stream of oil came out, but, at the same time, another "rivulet" of drops of oil stuck to the outside of the pan with surface tension and found another way into the drain pan.

I was not impressed with this apparant "seperation" and yes I'm sure it was oil, not water or anything else.

This is totally anecdotal and non-scientific of course, but I'm not mixing that crazily again!
 
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