99yota solara SLE, Just did Gunk Motor Flush HELP

[ltslimjim]

It could be as simple as a slow leak over time turning into gunk. I still haven't cleaned around/under the intake/exhaust manifolds well on my 92 Civic that was acquired with 230,000 miles. The intake manifold leaks still, even after VCG replacement, but only slightly at one of the cover bolts. It's so easy to strip those guys I don't care about that small of a leak as it doesn't appear to affect oil loss much at all. Previously, was loosing 1/2 Quart every 3k miles. Since, have changed over to an extended OCI and no longer have fresh oil slicks under the car from leaking(though the one VC bolt does weep still)...

The only thing you can tell from visible exterior engine gunk is leaky gaskets or seals.

 

[Trav]

No bad at all from what i can see mostly varnish not sludge,IMO no need to further disassemble the engine.
The gunk on the head bellow the valve cover could be from a weeping cover gasket or as simple as a little spilled oil over time from the fill hole.

I really don't think you have much to worry about,i would probably run a high quality oil like (take your pick,you cant recommend any brand here without getting someone upset) for a couple of 3K OCI and be done with it.

 

[wiswind]

I did have some stuff in the area that you mention, and had cleaned it up.
That was from very slight leakage of the valve cover gaskets.

With the issue you are having with the front valve cover.....I'm nervous about your possible experience with removal of the rear valve cover.....I had to un-do a lot of little things for the rear valve cover.....plus remove the upper intake manifold......

When you remove your front valve cover, what you see in my picture is very close to what you will see on your vehicle (hopefully yours will be nearly as clean as well).
One difference you will see is the intake cam on mine.....on the right side in the picture (driver's side)....the gear is on a fatter drum as compared to the exhaust gear.
That fat part on the intake cam gear is the Variable Valve Timing (VVT) pressure activated section.
A electrically controlled pressure valve varies the pressure inside that gear.....and shifts it slightly on the cam shaft, which will adjust the timing of the intake valves opening.
On your vehicle, the gear will look pretty much the same on both the intake and exhaust cams.

For my vehicle, I did a treatment with Auto RX (available online) and am using Redline 5W-30 oil (known for cleaning and being a tough oil, but $$$) with the larger sized filter.

 

[Trav]

Between me and my brother we spent well over $300 on ARX and got dismal results on everything we tried it on.We did clean and rinse a few times,waved magic wands while chanting "ARX works if you work it" LOL to no avail.
It didn't touch varnish at all,we got better results for a lot less money.
When i complained to the owner first he said we didn't buy any and when i proved we did he claimed we didn't follow directions.Money spent lesson learned.

I hear Redline oil is good at cleaning but i never used it so i cant comment but the products i have used from them have been very good.

 

[andyd]

I dont think that I would be so hasty to take apart the engine.When you start messing with stuff that is in the way of other stuff you need get at, then it never goes back together perfectly. Cutting open the oil filter will give you a few clues. So would a cold start with an oil pressure gauge hooked up.Or just listen for lower end noise that goes away within a minute or so. Meantime MMO is your friend.

 

[ltslimjim]

^I agree somewhat on this post, but removing a valve cover alone is generally considered child's play for most vehicles(including this user's, save for an annoying piece in the way not that big of a deal)...I do agree with cutting open the oil filter(definitely not as easy as removing a VCG, IMO), and also on trying MMO.

IMO, I'd do 2 or 3 OCI in a row, 3k miles max, with MMO and PP or PU...but getting before pictures and then after would be ideal.

 

[99SolaraSLE]

hey everyone, sorry for the shortage of posts, today was lundi gras, day before mardi gras, so theres lots of traditional cultural things we do, besides getting flashed(however nice it is.I finally got that clip removed, and without having to break it. Not a huge deal but id rather reinstall that than have broken it and used a zip tie or something. instead of one pair of pliers like it was designed to be removed with. It took 3 people one in front and one on each side, and together we were able to make up for the plastics lost elasticity over time. and after a little more coercing from the other connections, i was able to get that wiring harness box out of the way, so the valve covers finally coming off and getting a new gasket. Pictures to follow shortly, probably in early morning Fat Tuesday(Mardi gras Day). I might as well stay up all night working on it, i couldnt get sleep if i tried being that my house is on st. Charles right near bourbon, so im right on the parade route. Theres people out in the neutral ground(median) 24/7. Theyre drunk and have tents pitched but theyve got massive sound systems and such and build stages and just stay up all night till the next parades roll. Check out WDSU.com tomorow if you wanna see live coverage of Rex one of the oldest and most traditional parades in existence. Anyway, more to follow.

 

[unDummy]

Definitely post pictures of the engine, and to the girls you hand out bead necklaces to...

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Definitely post pictures of the engine, and to the girls you hand out bead necklaces to...

yeap, workin on both, but i dont think posting the latter would go over well with the mods, dont wanna lose my account. so id say either P.M. or email would be the best for the second picture genre. when theyre outa towners they dont even need the beads, our alcohol does the job and it seems when u say smile for the camera, they react by smiling and flashing, i guess they feel if theyre smiling than the picture taker deserves to smile too?

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Originally Posted By: unDummy
Definitely post pictures of the engine, and to the girls you hand out bead necklaces to...

I did want to post this for y'all. Its a local news channels live streaming feed from Bourbon street From Arnauds(a very famous restaurant) Balcony. Mind you the parades are all over and bourbon still looks like this from end to end. Last few nights it was literally no room to move,shoulder to sholder. But theres been this one lady on the balcony for the last hour thats got a whole crowd underneath her just to try and get her to throw them some beads. People do crazy things for beads during mardi gras. Its great. You can see her hold them up and dangle them over everyones heads like dogs,and they react as if they are when i see it on video like this, just jumping up me,me,me,Beggggin Strips.

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^I agree somewhat on this post, but removing a valve cover alone is generally considered child's play for most vehicles(including this user's, save for an annoying piece in the way not that big of a deal)...I do agree with cutting open the oil filter(definitely not as easy as removing a VCG, IMO), and also on trying MMO.

IMO, I'd do 2 or 3 OCI in a row, 3k miles max, with MMO and PP or PU...but getting before pictures and then after would be ideal.

Ok so hit one last problem. Please advise, I got all the wiring and junk out of the way. I just finished loosening all the bolts. Except one, Which is located in the back left corner of the cover, and is partially covered by the radiator hose. Being the idiot i am, i loosened the clamp and started to remove the hose from the radiator end, of course coolant began pouring out because i hadnt drained it. So a few questions, First, does the coolant pose any dangers to any of the parts it gushed all over, or any of the electrical connectors farther down that it drenched. If not than next question, should i drain the radiator and go about doing this the same way after being drained. I could probably push the hose aside enough to get to the bolt, but i was worried about when i go to re-seat the cover, that i should have full clearance everywhere so that i can lower it directly down, and not have to place it back down at any angles, for example with that left back corner tilted lower than the rest of it to get below the hose. Is this alright or should i only lower it directly down, in other words, drain the radiator and get that hose out the way? Any quick tips are greatly helpful as im trying to at least look beneath the valve cover before this storm comes. I might have to wait two days for the weather to clear up though if i cant get this. Anyway, thanks for any and all help.

last bolt by 99solara, on Flickr

 

[kschachn]

I have to say, I've never waited so long, read so many posts and been on pins and needles so long just to see under that valve cover

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Yea believe me i agree, its worse on my end without a doubt though.

 

[wiswind]

You won't get a huge amount of coolant coming out of that location as it is one of the highest points in the system.
The only thing about coolant causing a problem around there is it might not make your belts happy.
You have the power steering and alternator belts.
I don't think it got onto your timing belt.
I don't know how old the belts are......timing belt should be replaced every 90K miles.
Timing belt is a more involved job than I am comfortable with.....so I had mine done at a TOYOTA dealership.....water pump at the same time as it is driven by the timing belt.

Since you have already undone the radiator hose, I would go ahead and undo it at the cap end (put rags under the location to catch the coolant that comes out......sounds like most of what will come out already came out) and proceed, if that is what you need to do in order to get at that last bolt.

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Originally Posted By: wiswind
You won't get a huge amount of coolant coming out of that location as it is one of the highest points in the system.
The only thing about coolant causing a problem around there is it might not make your belts happy.
You have the power steering and alternator belts.
I don't think it got onto your timing belt.
I don't know how old the belts are......timing belt should be replaced every 90K miles.
Timing belt is a more involved job than I am comfortable with.....so I had mine done at a TOYOTA dealership.....water pump at the same time as it is driven by the timing belt.

Since you have already undone the radiator hose, I would go ahead and undo it at the cap end (put rags under the location to catch the coolant that comes out......sounds like most of what will come out already came out) and proceed, if that is what you need to do in order to get at that last bolt.

Hey man thanks, just to clarify, when it started coming out of the hose and the radiator where the hose connects i reconnected the hose as fast as possible, so i guess instead of draining it, which would require removing the skid plate because my hands are too big to get to the release valve on the bottom, i could just release the hose again and cut a milk jug to use to catch it as it pours out, and do the same thing at the radiator fill cap end of the hose? I rinsed as well as possible with water right after, but i guess after im finished with the valve cover i might as well go get the timing belt(and water pump) replaced at the dealership just to be safe. I apologize for having to seek so much guidance on this simple procedure, and greatly appreciate everyones help and input.

 

[kschachn]

Yeah I hope my comments didn't seem mean, I didn't intend it that way. I own a '99 Sienna with the same 1MZ-FE engine so I'm interested in what you find out, even if just for curiosity sake.

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
Yeah I hope my comments didn't seem mean, I didn't intend it that way. I own a '99 Sienna with the same 1MZ-FE engine so I'm interested in what you find out, even if just for curiosity sake.

No worries, didn't take it that way at all. I completely understood and agree with your statement. I'm even more anxious to see, regardless of the results, just because of the engine's history and that old class-action suit against toyota( Sludge Suit settlement for this engines sludge problems. I bought the car a year after they sent out the letters to all the owners about compensating/or replacing their engines, so i wasnt even aware until doing some research recently.Im past the ten year extension but regardless Thats why im so curios. I can understand seeing this as an active topic for so long,because of all the advice i needed wanting to finally see the result. I'm disabled, have a bad back, today i had to stay horizontal due to a flare so i got no work done, but theres not a single thing left to get it my way so tomorrow the results will finally be in. Thanks again to everyone for their help.

 

[ltslimjim]

Yeah, glad you got the radiator hose out of the way, no worries there the residue will burn off. Just be sure to top off your coolant level once the car gets to operating temp again after putting everything back together. Can't wait for the picks and way to hang in there!

 

[99SolaraSLE]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Yeah, glad you got the radiator hose out of the way, no worries there the residue will burn off. Just be sure to top off your coolant level once the car gets to operating temp again after putting everything back together. Can't wait for the picks and way to hang in there!

Victory is Mine!!!!!!!
Hey guys,
First off thanks for all yall's help with everything everystep of the way. I've got the valve cover off. I was really bad off with by illness for the last couple days which really had me irate. I could hardly walk much less bend even slightly to work under the hood, point being, sorry for the delay. I wanted to make up for lost time and not have any catastrophes or even minor setbacks to delay things even a second loner. So i just took off the skid plate and drained the radiator so i would have to worry about rigging some type of catch/jug for the fluid when i removed the radiator hose, I was able to remove the hose from the radiator easily, but not from the neck right beneath the rad. cap. Wouldnt budge, like it was glue in place. Anyway i was at least able to bend the hose out of the way enough to get to the last bolt and remove the valve cover. Pictures are being uploaded as we speak so i will be posting very shortly. Looking forward to yall's feedback and diagnosis. The cover and the area around it is so dirty and i was so worried about the slightest spec of dust falling in there. I temporarily reseated the cover, but Right now i have the the ignition coils/spark plug tube out out of the engine and in sepperate bags to the side. Should i lightly put them back in to protect the holes or cover them with something or not worry about it at all? Anyway very shortly ill edit this post with the pictures of inside i just wanted everyone to know it was done. Again thanks for everyones help.

 

[ltslimjim]

Look forward to the pics! Do you plan on cleaning while the cover is removed? I guess it depends on how bad things look. I definitely wouldn't go with a flush additive at oil change time again. More like 1 QT MMO with something from Pennzoil's lineup for 2-3 thousand mile/2-3 month intervals. After a couple intervals there, perhaps Kreen for a couple of runs. I guess we'll have plenty of time to discuss options for cleaning it up. If you can't do it yourself, for whatever reason, is there a mechanic you trust that wouldn't barbecue you to remove the grime up top?