97 Integra CV Axles

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I have to replace my Cv axles ASAP! my drivers side has been clicking for weeks now and the passenger side boot is torn but not yet clicking. I didnt have enough for OEM or R axles so I was gonna go with Napa which are $92 each but also heard people saying autozone is pretty good and they are $60 each! NEW!
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BUT....Ive heard more good reviews on Napa
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I definitely want to go cheaper but I want something durable even with a limited lifetime warranty. Also it does not help that shops down here in FL are charging $85 dollars a side to put them on
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I think thats a lot lol

Has anyone used autozone axles and would recommend them?
And with no mechanical experience how hard would it be if I replaced the axles myself? Could I learn how to do it???
 
If $85 is too high a price, then why not just do it yourself? It'll cost you some time but save you some money. All you have to do to remove it is unscrew the nut, get some stuff out of the way, then yank it out. Installation is the reverse of removal.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon
If $85 is too high a price, then why not just do it yourself? It'll cost you some time but save you some money. All you have to do to remove it is unscrew the nut, get some stuff out of the way, then yank it out. Installation is the reverse of removal.


is it pretty easy with no mechanical experience?
 
Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: yonyon
If $85 is too high a price, then why not just do it yourself? It'll cost you some time but save you some money. All you have to do to remove it is unscrew the nut, get some stuff out of the way, then yank it out. Installation is the reverse of removal.


is it pretty easy with no mechanical experience?


Yes it is. It is one of the first things a mechanic learns to do.
 
You might need to buy a couple of tools if you don't have them, but nothing that's going to cost a normal labor charge. Also, with the boots being ripped you're going to have some splattered grease to deal with. Overall, though, if you can do the brakes you can do the axles.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Team-Integra.net should have the DIY.



Also, I should add that if you go on the site I linked, there were a lot of discussions around axles -- some brands definitely gave people a lot of problems with both fitment and reliability. Yes, they all seem to have good warranties, but constantly replacing them due to failure from poor QC is not fun.
 
I recently installed Cardone Select axles on my 2004 Odyssey; they were only about $45 each at Rock Auto; so far they work just fine. To be honest, replacing axles is more difficult than replacing brakes, but not too bad if you have the right tools. Aside from normal hand tools, a breaker bar, torque wrench (200 lb-ft for axle nut) and pry bar would be handy to have. I don't consider $85 per side for labor excessive.
 
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DIY on axles is a good thing to learn. After paying a shop $75 to fix a boot once, I learned how to do axles the next time it was needed. ($50 for a lifetime warranty'd reman vs $75 for a boot job makes you want to learn.) Not too hard at all. Done at least 3 since and they always go pretty quickly. You can rent an axle socket from most auto stores also. Pry bar is usually helpful or a 2x4 and mallet to pop one out (you hold it up against the axle and a helper pounds on it from the opposite side of the vehicle).

I don't know if it applies to all makes/models, but I've always followed the replace one at a time rule, if doing both. Some transmissions have parts that could 'fall down' or something.
 
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Biggest hurdle is probably removal of the axle nut. You will need to unstake it, and have the correct sized socket plus a fairly long breaker bar with a short extension. Either have a friend hold the brakes, or stick a screwdriver into the vented slots of the brake disc against the caliper. A powerful impact wrench will make this easy.

Remember to support the car properly using stands, and not just the jack. You will need to separate the lower ball joint too.

If your car has ABS, make sure the new axles come with the correct rings in place.
 
There is a company in Colorado or someplace out west that does better than the Chinese rebuilds. If you care about longevity, you want someone who does it right and does not just grind the case hardening, which will result in softer wearing metal and shorter life next time...
 
Originally Posted By: chrome
A powerful impact wrench will make this easy.
+1 on the impact wrench ... I didn't even unstake the nut before zipping it off the axle. Much easier compared to the last time I did this with a 24" breaker bar and a 5ft cheater.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
There is a company in Colorado or someplace out west that does better than the Chinese rebuilds. If you care about longevity, you want someone who does it right and does not just grind the case hardening, which will result in softer wearing metal and shorter life next time...


is that what these companies like autozone and napa use, chinese rebuilds? even though Im buying new axles not remanu ones?
 
Also just checked the prices I can get both axles for $99 at autozone because of 20% off and free shipping but Napa I can only get 10% off so its $176 for both axles
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And will mechanics let you watch how to do it so I could learn that way too? lol
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
DIY on axles is a good thing to learn. After paying a shop $75 to fix a boot once, I learned how to do axles the next time it was needed. ($50 for a lifetime warranty'd reman vs $75 for a boot job makes you want to learn.) Not too hard at all. Done at least 3 since and they always go pretty quickly. You can rent an axle socket from most auto stores also. Pry bar is usually helpful or a 2x4 and mallet to pop one out (you hold it up against the axle and a helper pounds on it from the opposite side of the vehicle).

I don't know if it applies to all makes/models, but I've always followed the replace one at a time rule, if doing both. Some transmissions have parts that could 'fall down' or something.


do you have to replace transmission fluid after the change?
 
I used the opportunity to do a drain and fill on the transmission fluid; it was due for a change anyways. After I drained the transmission fluid, not a drop leaked out when I pulled the axle.
 
Originally Posted By: Juelz
Originally Posted By: surfstar
DIY on axles is a good thing to learn. After paying a shop $75 to fix a boot once, I learned how to do axles the next time it was needed. ($50 for a lifetime warranty'd reman vs $75 for a boot job makes you want to learn.) Not too hard at all. Done at least 3 since and they always go pretty quickly. You can rent an axle socket from most auto stores also. Pry bar is usually helpful or a 2x4 and mallet to pop one out (you hold it up against the axle and a helper pounds on it from the opposite side of the vehicle).

I don't know if it applies to all makes/models, but I've always followed the replace one at a time rule, if doing both. Some transmissions have parts that could 'fall down' or something.


do you have to replace transmission fluid after the change?

no, it does not lose enough during the axle swap to justify replacing fluid.
 
If you have center caps that come off easily, you can break the axle nut loose with the tires on the ground, also (if no helper to step on the brakes). CA doesn't have rust issues and I think I got all of them off with a 24" breaker, and maybe one required the use of a jack handle as a cheater bar.

You'll probably loose 1/2 qt of fluid. That year Honda/Acura, you could top off with 10w30 if you have some instead of buying gear lube (synchromesh would work and is readily available also).

Read through DIY articles and watch some youtube vids - no need to see a mechanic do it. You'll be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
If you have center caps that come off easily, you can break the axle nut loose with the tires on the ground, also (if no helper to step on the brakes). CA doesn't have rust issues and I think I got all of them off with a 24" breaker, and maybe one required the use of a jack handle as a cheater bar.

You'll probably loose 1/2 qt of fluid. That year Honda/Acura, you could top off with 10w30 if you have some instead of buying gear lube (synchromesh would work and is readily available also).

Read through DIY articles and watch some youtube vids - no need to see a mechanic do it. You'll be fine.


the thing is I dont have any of the tools right now and I think it would cost me labor since I would have to buy everything including jack stands, a jack and so on
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